Hayward S3 Omni/TCELLS340 (T-15, right?) issues with generation

[Malibu38368]

I thought this would be a good topic for my first-ever post here! We've got a shiny new pool in our yard now, complete with an SWG system, and it's driving me up a Dang wall trying to get it sorted. Because I tend to be way too verbose, here's the short-form inquiry:

Does the S3 (specifically, the 40,000 gallon CELLS340, which I think is a T-15) actually produce usable amounts of chlorine, with cell temps down to 52°F?

It's winter now, and even in SoCal things can get... cool. I haven't been heating the pool for that reason (and also because we're still in the middle of initial startup), and the cell has been consistently reporting 53-56°F during run times. It claims to be generating, but current draw is almost always 1.16A, with a reported cell voltage of around 15. I called Hayward, and they claim that the cell will generate chlorine down to 50°F. But to test theory, I turned on the heater, and almost immediately after the cell temp hit 60°F, current spiked to 6.09A, and voltage to a little over 26V, which has been consistent while I've been writing this.

Salt levels report at about 3600ppm by the cell, which is obviously brand new. According to Hayward, actual salt levels are probably closer to 2600ppm, because of changes they've recently made to the plate coatings, without reprogramming the board; apparently it's supposed to help with cell life, but that's not relevant here. Salt testing (both at poll store and via titration) show >2400ppm salt, and my issue is, essentially, no chlorine generation, not present-but-low amounts. Hayward's tech guy was also convinced that there was an installation issue, but I'm starting to question that, since temperature seems to consistently "fix" the issue.

Yes, the answer here seems obvious, but I want to make sure that I haven't reached an incorrect conclusion that still fits the evidence, and let our pool builder off the hook on a shoddy install.

Anyway, I'd also like to thank everyone who posts here--I may be a new member, but I've read a lot of stuff here already, and it's been... illuminating.

Cheers!

 

[Bob Jakob]

Between 50 and 60 °F the cell production is reduced to 20%. Under 50°F the cell will not produce, it will shut down.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

The cold weather cutoff for a system is not that precise. It cuts off in the 50's.

Your signature does not list the model heater you have, but beware of corrosive condensation with gas heaters when the water temperature is below the mid-60s.

Heater Condensation - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Malibu38368]

Welcome to TFP.

The cold weather cutoff for a system is not that precise. It cuts off in the 50's.

Your signature does not list the model heater you have, but beware of corrosive condensation with gas heaters when the water temperature is below the mid-60s.

Heater Condensation - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you!

So to the thrust of my original question, safe to say that, more likely that not, the SWG is exhibiting normal behavior, and a cell temp in the mid-50s may be too low for effective generation? (Noting again that I was getting some current draw, just not enough.)

As for the heater, I'll add it to my sig, but it's a Hayward H400FDM. Reading through that article, the recommended action appears to boil down to "do not run the heater if water temp is <50°F" and "do not shut off heater until water body is >50°F." Is that a reasonable summation? It's highly unlikely that our pool would ever drop below 50°, and it will certainly never freeze. I suppose the alternative would be to simply treat the pool with liquid chlorine as needed, during the cooler months, and let the SWG do its thing when using (and heating) the spa?

 

[ajw22]

So to the thrust of my original question, safe to say that, more likely that not, the SWG is exhibiting normal behavior, and a cell temp in the mid-50s may be too low for effective generation? (Noting again that I was getting some current draw, just not enough.)

Correct. Your SWG is fine.

Reading through that article, the recommended action appears to boil down to "do not run the heater if water temp is <50°F" and "do not shut off heater until water body is >50°F." Is that a reasonable summation?

Not really.

Any heater operation below the mid-60s causes corrosive condensation. Continuously running the heater to maintain temperatures below the mid-60s produces corrosive condensation. Running the heater to get the water temperature into the high 60s does not cause much damage, but the corrosive condensation is cumulative over time.

Maintaining the water temperature in the high 60s and above is fine if you can afford the gas bill.

 

[1poolman1]

Thank you!

So to the thrust of my original question, safe to say that, more likely that not, the SWG is exhibiting normal behavior, and a cell temp in the mid-50s may be too low for effective generation? (Noting again that I was getting some current draw, just not enough.)

As for the heater, I'll add it to my sig, but it's a Hayward H400FDM. Reading through that article, the recommended action appears to boil down to "do not run the heater if water temp is <50°F" and "do not shut off heater until water body is >50°F." Is that a reasonable summation? It's highly unlikely that our pool would ever drop below 50°, and it will certainly never freeze. I suppose the alternative would be to simply treat the pool with liquid chlorine as needed, during the cooler months, and let the SWG do its thing when using (and heating) the spa?

Far less expensive to use liquid chlorine than the cost of gas to maintain the temp that the SWG would "like."

 

[ChrisABS]

Do you have an OmniLogic or Omni PL? Either one you should be able to pick your specific model. It will say 340.