Maybe I should have researched better FIRST. Too late, yesterday the H400 replaced a 23 year old Teledyne LAARS that worked mostly without issue, right up until it didn't. I already replaced the gas valve about 10 years ago, it needed it again along with the pilot tube assembly. But I remanence. The H400 doesn't function yet, waiting for the gas company on Monday.
My existing automation is via Insteon; it was the best option I felt to replace the tired X10 - remember 23 years ago. Since the LAARS operated with millivolt, I believe that is the correct term, I used a module-relay to open/close the circuit so that the LAARS could light. To further that I also have an industrial style thermostat that also open/close the circuit. With the H400 there is electronic ignition, the goal there to eliminate the ~$2.00 a day pilot light.
The H400 has a similar circuit; water pressure switch to water temp limit switch to water temp limit switch to flue gas temp limit switch to vent pressure switch - very similar to LAARS. What I don't know is what kind of voltage is on that circuit and can I add two more "switches" that are only for open/close the circuit. If I do interrupt the circuit in that way, what will it do to the built in automation of the H400?
There is a temperature sensor on the H400 board that has three wires. Would that be the better place to splice in my additional "switches" and if so which wire? And there is also the Remote connection but that has 24vac. I've never used my switches in that manner, now that I have said that out loud I'll have to see if the relays can handle the 24vac. There is no real instruction on that other than the H400 would be configured to "bo" and to set the heater's control to SPA. It further states to connect the appropriate wires from the remote. So does that imply that I would be closing the circuit or do I need to supply 24vac?
Until I actually get it fired up, I won't know if the H400 thermostat will be sufficient. The main reason for getting the industrial thermostat was because the LAARS was analog and hugely hard to adjust accurately. So it could be I won't be using an external thermostat, only the ability to turn it on remotely.
The spa pump is operated via an Insteon 240V switch. Now why don't I just let that be my automation? The reason is for a back up OFF. Right now the H400 is wired on the load side. If I have the H400 set to be on when powered up, it would start heating when the spa pump starts (2 min delay). If for some reason the 240v switch heard a signal to start when no one was around, then the spa would be running and heating. If I leave the H400 set to be off when powered up, then I couldn't start it remotely. It's a perk to be out and spur of the moment want to get in the spa when we get home. The spa is nearly 1000 gallons and takes an hour+ to heat when the water is 60 degrees.
Over
My existing automation is via Insteon; it was the best option I felt to replace the tired X10 - remember 23 years ago. Since the LAARS operated with millivolt, I believe that is the correct term, I used a module-relay to open/close the circuit so that the LAARS could light. To further that I also have an industrial style thermostat that also open/close the circuit. With the H400 there is electronic ignition, the goal there to eliminate the ~$2.00 a day pilot light.
The H400 has a similar circuit; water pressure switch to water temp limit switch to water temp limit switch to flue gas temp limit switch to vent pressure switch - very similar to LAARS. What I don't know is what kind of voltage is on that circuit and can I add two more "switches" that are only for open/close the circuit. If I do interrupt the circuit in that way, what will it do to the built in automation of the H400?
There is a temperature sensor on the H400 board that has three wires. Would that be the better place to splice in my additional "switches" and if so which wire? And there is also the Remote connection but that has 24vac. I've never used my switches in that manner, now that I have said that out loud I'll have to see if the relays can handle the 24vac. There is no real instruction on that other than the H400 would be configured to "bo" and to set the heater's control to SPA. It further states to connect the appropriate wires from the remote. So does that imply that I would be closing the circuit or do I need to supply 24vac?
Until I actually get it fired up, I won't know if the H400 thermostat will be sufficient. The main reason for getting the industrial thermostat was because the LAARS was analog and hugely hard to adjust accurately. So it could be I won't be using an external thermostat, only the ability to turn it on remotely.
The spa pump is operated via an Insteon 240V switch. Now why don't I just let that be my automation? The reason is for a back up OFF. Right now the H400 is wired on the load side. If I have the H400 set to be on when powered up, it would start heating when the spa pump starts (2 min delay). If for some reason the 240v switch heard a signal to start when no one was around, then the spa would be running and heating. If I leave the H400 set to be off when powered up, then I couldn't start it remotely. It's a perk to be out and spur of the moment want to get in the spa when we get home. The spa is nearly 1000 gallons and takes an hour+ to heat when the water is 60 degrees.
Over
Last edited: