Leave it as you explained it in your first post. The straight pipe is to ensure you have straight laminar flow into the flow switch. As a switch, the 8-10" is sufficient if that is all you have room for.
Is this new switch for the heater or for the SWG?
The switch for that item needs to be inline with it and not outside of its bypass loop. In other words if you have a bypass around the heater, the heater switch has to be between the heater and the valve, it doesn't matter which side of the heater the switch goes on.
You can put the check valve inside the heater loop. If you bypass the heater, you don't need to go through the check valve.
Check valve is not required** if you don't have a heater. The idea is to prevent highly chlorinated water from SWG getting to the heater. ** in reality by the time the water gets back to the heater, the chlorine in the water is diluted enough to not matter much.
You can put the check valve on either side of the heater.