Hayward filter system: metal rod got stuck on the lid and came out. Pool maintenance said its ~$750 either to fix it or replace it

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V

venexiano

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2020
77
Florida
Dear all,

I am new to this forum, I am really impressed to see how many people here share the passion for pools and share their knowledge to help each other. I have a Hayward filter system. The label says MD C12002. Today the pool maintenance lady tried to unscrew the knob to change the filter, and she said the cover came out together with the rod. I attach the pictures. The maintenance boss called me and said repair is about $700, so they suggest to just but it new (not sure if the same or a new model, he didn't say) for $750. Maybe that is a fair price for a new system with installation, but $700 seems to me too much for repair. I write here to make sure it is not an easy DIY fix. The other end of the rod seems to be in great shape (see pic), but neither I or maintenance lady were able to screw it back in, so for now pump is turned off until I take a decision. What do you suggest me to try? Should I try as hard and possible to unscrew it, maybe using a wrench to hold the rod and prevent it from rotating? I tried manually, no way it comes out. I appreciate any help. Also, maintenance said that when the rod is stuck inside the knob it means it is rusty, and everything needs to be replaced. If that is the case, I see online that with about $130 I can get both the rod (CX1100Z2) and the knob (CX900G), so could I just replace those?
Thank you
Best
Alberto
 

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I have the same filter system, although a little bit of a larger size. The rod is threaded on both sides, sometimes it comes off with the upper housing. I usually unscrew it with a pair of channel locks then screw it back in to the lower portion before reassembly. The only expensive issue would be if the lower filter housing is damaged and cannot accept the threads, otherwise you could replace all the upper components for a couple hundred bucks.
 
Welcome! :wave: We have the same filter. Don't give up on it just yet. As noted above, try some channel locks, I have used a pipe wrench as well. If you can get it our of the upper bell housing, you should be okay. When mine would show signs of getting stuck, I quickly learned to apply some pool silicone lube to the top of that rod (threads) to help prevent it from getting stuck when I clean the filter. Work at it for a while. It's very easy for techs to say "Gimme money" for something that you can repair and salvage on your own. If the parts under the plastic bell (under the top lid) are rusted, you can replace them fairly cheap. I'll post my own repair thread below as well. Let us know ow it goes. Good luck!
 
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In case it helps:

Hayward Cartridge Filter Locking Knob Repair

(UPDATED 11 Mar 2021) The following was used on my Hayward C1200, but may also apply to other Hayward-series cartridge filters that utilize the locking knob on top. These procedures should help those who find that their locking knob on top doesn't seem to fully disengage from the threaded rod...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Hi guys,

I took the rod out by holding it with a wrench! Easy! See the pictures below. The rod and its threads on the knob side seem fine to me, see picture below. Just a bit drier than the other end (picture above) but it seems fine to me. I was thinking to just spray some WD40: The questions I have are:

1) Is the WD40 I have home good or should I go buy the pool silicone lube?
2) The E ring seems rusty (see pic below), should I just try to spray WD40 or should I replace it following Texas Splash's thread?
3) I am planning to screw the rod back to the base, spray some WD40 at both ends and on the knob threads, and then put the cover back in place. Simple and plain right? Or am I missing something?
4) What is the plastic tube coming out of the base (see picture above)? Can I just leave it the way it is?

Thank you
Best
A.
 

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That lube should be fine. Not sure if I mentioned it in my thread, but I actually got the e-clip at Lowe's I believe. WD-40 just won't hold-up in that environment. Besides being water tolerant, the pool lubes are gentle on O-rings. You can probably wait a bit on the e-clip, but don't let it rust to the point it breaks or disintegrates. Keep it on your "To-Do" list. :)
 
Good. I put everything back. The E-ring turned out just dirty not rusty after some cleaning it got perfect. USed some bike lube for now (wet and dry conditions). Two things, not sure if they are issues:

1) I screwed the rod back in as tight as possible by hand, then pretty tighter with a wrench without exagerating. The top of the rod still oscillates a bit if I touch it, is not as firm as I thought, is it normal?
2) I have put the cover back in, I tightened the knob by hand pretty hard. I re-did it 5 times but there is no way that I can get the cover perfectly aligned with the base, see pictures below. It always close more on one side. I turned on the pump, it primed at 3000 rpm and then I made it run for 2 minutes, being ready to shut it off is something weird was happening. But it seemed to work, the jet in the pool was coming out and water was circulating. No leaking. Should I be worried about this mis-alignment? Any fix?

Thank you
Best
A
 

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Does the white cone thing go on the bottom or the top? I also think that I might have a very slight leak at the top. Occasionally I see a few drops of water coming out of it. Not a big deal but when the pump shuts off it causes it to lose prime. Is there an O-ring or just the silicone washers that keep it sealed?

I could just tighten it more, but I am worried about over tightening and breaking something. The washer and e-ring look intact and in good shape. I tried spreading some lube but does not seem to help.
 

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Lube the O-ring for the seal. When it does not go down straight that is usually what is wrong with mine. Also at some point you might want to change the big O-ring mine got loose over time and did not sit properly.
 
"V", I would shut everything off and try to get that top on better. It shouldn't be tilted like that. I'm surprised it's not leaking at the center O-ring. Not sure what you mean about the rod though. Once tightened into the bottom, the top of the rod may still wiggle a bit if that's what you mean. But the inverted white cone under the lid (Guide Cone) should keep the rod aligned and centered as you press the top half down into the bottom half.
 
Ok guys thank you again for your help. I was able after more trial and error to make the filter system cover to close evenly. There is still a little gap but at least it is even all the way around it, see picture below, and compare it with the one above. Could any of you please send me a picture of how yours look? Do you have the gap on yours? The pump worked smoothly for 2 days. Then today I had the priming Alarm of my Pentair going off. It retried and it was able to prime. Then the alarm went off again. Then it re-tried priming 3 times and each of the 3 times the alarm went off. I switched to bottom suction (I was sucking from the top with my Hayward Navigator Pro) and it made the priming, and it is now running. Pressure is 25 psi, (1.75 bar), is that good? I will give it another few trials with suction from the top with the Navigator Pro, I do not see leaks. I am wondering if the problem is due to the little gap on the filter system cover. What do you think?
 

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The filter should have no bearing on the pump priming issue. That could be a suction side air leak. But the filter could be responsible for a high pressure (dirty filter). Or the gauge could simply be bad. I clean my filter when teh factory gauge get to about 12. I'd look to see if the gauge falls to zero when off. If not, it's bad. Also clean the filter and record the clean psi reading so you can compare that later over time.
 
It should close easily and have no gap. I would recommend you buy a new big o-ring for it. I changed mine a couple of years ago it was awesome after that. Also make sure that O-ring is properly lubed, very important for easy closing.
 
So the nylon washer on the outside just broke. Apparently I break these a lot. I ordered a full kit from Amazon for $13 so I have a spare e-ring, and o-ring. I think I need to keep a bunch of the nylon washers around and maybe change that o-ring out a little more often.

Do you think these will work for the nylon washers?


and how about these for the O-rings.

 
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