Hayward Aqua Plus PL-Plus -New Owner

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Ndenice

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Oct 12, 2013
13
Hi Everyone,

I just finally opened my pool this week because we redid the deck and the electrical was a disaster. So I cleaned it all up, put a new sub panel in (Hayward PL-PLUS) and converted to salt. I shocked the pool with liquid shock on Friday when I opened it and dumped 12 40 pound salt bags in. I kept the salt cell off during this time. The salt reading was only anout 2300 ppm so I dumped another 6 bags in and it's up to about 3200 ppm now. I turned enabled the salt cell and as soon as I did the display started acting weird. I will be scrolling between menus and the screen will go blank. The lights on "pool/spa" and "filter" will blink, and then after some time passes the menu comes back on and I am able to move it around again. This happens over and over. I tried killing the power for a few seconds but it did not have any effect. If I disable the salt cell...it resolves the problem. Has anyone seen this before or know why this might be happening. The customer service people at Hayward are useless. Also on a side note, I noticed the unit is extremely warm to the touch. Is this normal? I saw a couple of other people complain about this online but nobody has confirmed if it is normal.

Also I will note, I wire tied the power whip from the sub panel to the filter to the salt cell wire and flow switch wire. Could this be causing some kind of interference?


Thanks for any help
 
This is really helpful. I can try a few of these things tomorrow. Is it supposed to feel pretty warm to the touch? I can tell you how it's wired. I have a 15 amp gfi breaker. I have the hot lead going to the hot screw and the neutral lead going to the neutral screw. There is no ground but I'd assume it's already grounded to the metal box and the gfi curly white wire is on the neutral bar. I've been using it for the past several days with no issue. It only blink and gets hot when salt cell is turned on.
 
Sounds like an issue with the transformer.

It's not supposed to get really hot. The transformer will get warm, but if it's getting hot, it's probably bad or wired incorrectly.

Try the diagnostic tests to see if everything checks out or if something is off.

Do you have a neutral from the main service panel?
 
Besides the power testing on pages 4-7 check pages 11-13 of the diagnostic pdf in post 4 for troubleshooting the display issue.... sounds like it might be loose or the wires are not pinched down properly in the plug, could also be a bad display board.

Any of your neighbors have the same system that you could swap the display with for a test?

What percentage do you have your salt cell set to for chlorine generation?

Also, do have the system configured to the proper T-Cell?
 
I am going outside now to take some pictures for you guys and run some of the checks. Remember....everything works normal and does not get warm if I'm not using the chlorine generator... So that SHOULD rule out a wiring issue, I think. Yes the neutral is going back to the main panel. I'm not able to swap for another controller. That would make things too easy. Its not so hot that I can't put my hand on it but just feels warmer than I'd expect it to feel. I have it set to 80% and I've been running the filter 24/7 because I just opened it....but that should be irrelevant at this point because I've been running the super chlorinate function since yesterday and I believe everything that runs it at 100% although I'm not sure. Perhaps it gets a little warmer when running super chlorinate....I don't know enough about this thing yet. Pics
coming soon. And I will try those troubleshooting things you guys sent. Also the picture of the unit you guys sent in that guide is not the same one as I have but I'm assuming the the troubleshooting is the same. Must be an older version or something.

Thx
 
So I went out this morning with it super chlorinating though the night with no issues as far as I can tell... It was very warm to the touch still. Particularly the metal around the box above where the transformer is. It's not so hot that you can't keep your hand on it, but it is very warm. The flashing issue is not happening this morning now no matter what I do.....

I put a meter on the black and white leads that feed the controller and I was getting like 119v and as far as I can tell it's wired correctly. Thoughts? Should I be concerned about the heat coming off this thing? I just purchased the unit so if it starts intermittently doing this flashing thing I am going to call Hayward again. The problem is they don't want to troubleshoot with you and instead want to send someone out for warranty repair. But if that person doesn't see the problem, they will charge you 100 bucks for the visit.... They only cover it under warranty if something needs to be replaced....

This is what I get for buying things online..... If the pool stores around here sold things for a reasonable price I'd used them but it's like double the price to get the same unit here locally.....
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Your power wiring seems to be correct.

Have you tested the salt level separately just to verify that the SWG is reading the salt level correctly?

Which T-cell number do you have installed? There are different size units that should be selected based upon the size (gals) of your pool.

Running the SWG on super chlorination is going to make it work at 100%. You really should not be doing this all the time. The SWG is only meant to maintain chlorine levels. Most people will use liquid chlorine or bleach to get started and jump start the SWG. I would expect it to run warmer if you are running the SWG at 100% all the time. I only use that setting if I need a little boast.

To do the board voltage testing you must pull the display panel out of your way. It is mounted on 4 nylon spacers and should pull off with a gentle tug. Make sure that the cable from the display to the control board is fully plugged in and wires are not loose at the plug.
 

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