Hayward Aqua Logic AQL-P-4 giving salt reading of 0 - Main Circuit Board issue?

kwuf

0
Jun 22, 2012
13
My 4+ year old Hayward t-cell 15 was displaying a gradually lowering salt level this summer until it was too low to generate any chlorine. I added some salt during the process to prolong the usefulness of the generator, but time won in the end as it always does. I decided to stick with the Hayward T-Cell 15 rather than chance it with a generic, so I ordered a new T-cell 15 and installed it this morning. I was waiting by the board to watch the salt reading climb, but the display continued to tell me that the salt level is too low to generate chlorine. I tried recalibrating it to make sure it was still calibrated for t-cell 15, but that didn't change anything. Here are the readings: +32.17V, +0.00A, 78F, 0000PPM. I understand that the Amps always register zero when the generator is not activated, so the odd part is the 0000 PPM. I then opened the panel and pulled out the main board, and I've attached two pictures. The first image is the upside down image of the rear of the board; the second image is the front side. So it looks like the top Relay is what burned out.
  • Is this repairable, or will it require a new board?
  • Is there a particular cause for this (e.g. a salt level that is too high?) or does it just happen randomly?
  • What is the typical life-cycle of these boards - do they typically fail after a certain number of years? This one is about 12 years old. I already re-soldered one spot on the board (I believe it's referred to as K1?) several years ago - it isn't pretty but it worked.
  • I was looking for refurbished boards and I found a service on eBay called Hayward Board Repair by B&L Enterprises in Tuttle OK - the customer ships the board to this company, they repair the board and ship it back to you for a much lower cost than a new board. Anyone have any experience with this company? Thanks in advance for your insight!
 

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This thread has a discussion about what the K1 & K2 relays do...


K1 relay more commonly fails and you already fixed that once. K1 and K2 relays manage the DC to the cell.

My guess is K1/K2 failures are due to high salt levels. High salt causes high amps and high amps can create heat that burns out the board or relay.

Do you use a K-1766 salt test to independently test your salt level?

I haven’t seen B&L mentioned for board repairs. Let us know how it goes if you give them a try.

@JamesW ideas?
 
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The boards carry a lot of amps for a circuit board and small solder points.

Any imperfections can result in excessive heat which can eventually cause the solder point to fail.

I would probably try touching up the solder, but you might end up needing a new board.
 
Thanks for the responses. I don't have a salt test, but when the pool was opened this spring the salt was about 3000 - I added a total of 120# this season and the pool is about 28,000 gallons, so the salt shouldn't be extremely high. I will get it tested but it shouldn't be more than 3,500 or 3,600 PPM, which shouldn't be high enough to cause problems.

I'll try to touch up with solder and hope it works. Open to any other feedback or suggestions.

Also can high calcium/solids contribute to stress on the board? We have very hard water (calcium 500+) - I manage to the saturation index, and I don't add scale inhibitor or any other additives to deal with high hardness.

Thank you again!
 
Hi - just to close the loop. I tried cleaning it up and soldering K2, but it didn't work - still no chlorine reading. I'm looking at other options (sending for a professional repair or replacing the board).
 
Hi - just closing the loop. I'm up and running again. I decided to send my Aqua Logic board off to B&L Enterprises to be repaired and had a really good experience. I shipped my board to them on 9/11 and received it back fully repaired/reconditioned on 9/16 - I installed it and it's working great so far. If I have any problems I'll post again. Thanks again for your help!
 

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