Having trouble putting the cap back on a Hayward cl200 clorinator.

[smerls]

I have a Hayward cl200 in line chlorinator which I only use occasionally when I go away.

In general the cap has been a pain to close and line up with the tab.

Since I was back I went to put in the last two tabs that I had but no matter where I started from when putting the cap back on i could not get it to line up with the tab.

It was tight and a bit hard to remove but again not lined up with the tab.

After a couple tries I took the cap off and put some lubrication on the o ring and tightened the screw.

It seemed to help however now it is going in the other direction. Before I could not get it to the tab now to get it tight it goes past the tab. When it lines up with the tab it is on but does not seem to be as tight as it was before. As mentioned to make it tight like before i can go another quarter or slightly less turn.

I guess my question is should I keep it lined up with the tab and not as tight or should I turn it more so it is tighter? Maybe I had it too tight before?

If I cannot get it to line up with the tab should I just make sure it is on tight or does it need to be lined up with the tab?

Also I know I don’t have to do this but after opening and closing the chlorinator cap a number of times when turning on the pump I bleed the filter pressure gage to make sure there was no air in the system.

The thing is when I originally put the filter top on (pentair fns 48 gallon de filter) the gage was turned to the side and I didn’t I didn’t notice until I was done and didn’t feel like taking it off the top or gauge and redoing it.

After fooling around with the chlorinator cap and bleeding the filter it seems like the gage has moved slightly and is now facing towards me.

The gage feels closed and it seems to be the same, The pressure reads the same etc but it is just moved a bit.

Is this something that could be an issue or if everything looks ok which it does, should I not worry about it?

Thank you for any thoughts on this, I maybe overthinking it but I just don’t want either the cap or Mr filter blowing off or creating other problems.

 

[1poolman1]

A.) It doesn't matter which way the gauge on the filter faces. If your not happy with it, remove the clamp and turn the top.
B.) You don't need to bleed air from the filter, it is done automatically whenever the filter-pump is running as there is an air-relief fitting on the manifold of that filter.
C.) The pump top will not blow off if the clamp is properly tightened.
D.) If you keep getting air into the system, with the pump running, you have a suction leak and air is being pulled in. A small amount is not an issue and usually solved by lubricating the pump-lid O ring.
E.) If the chlorinator doesn't leak and the top is secure, don't worry about it. It would be better to get rid of it and use a floating chlorinator while you are gone.

 

[smerls]

A.) It doesn't matter which way the gauge on the filter faces. If your not happy with it, remove the clamp and turn the top.
B.) You don't need to bleed air from the filter, it is done automatically whenever the filter-pump is running as there is an air-relief fitting on the manifold of that filter.
C.) The pump top will not blow off if the clamp is properly tightened.
D.) If you keep getting air into the system, with the pump running, you have a suction leak and air is being pulled in. A small amount is not an issue and usually solved by lubricating the pump-lid O ring.
E.) If the chlorinator doesn't leak and the top is secure, don't worry about it. It would be better to get rid of it and use a floating chlorinator while you are gone.

Thanks for the reply I do appreciate it.

My issue with the guage is not where it is facing I don’t care either but that it moved position which I don’t recall ever happening before so I was a little concerned about that not where it was facing. That maybe it is not fully closing or something else is going on.

I dont have any air in the system and only bleed the air gauge to release air when I open the strainer cap on the pump.

However in this case I was opening and closing the cap to the chlorinator a number of times and just wanted to make sure there was no air in the system and again the gage moved which I never recall happening before.

As for the cap i just need to make sure there is no water leaking and that it is tight but not too tight? I guess I was worried that it is not tight enough or after thinking about it that I was making it too tight. Again does it just need to be tight or does it need to be at the tab?

So the bottom line is if everything seems to be ok then just leave it?

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for the reply I do appreciate it.

My issue with the guage is not where it is facing I don’t care either but that it moved position which I don’t recall ever happening before so I was a little concerned about that not where it was facing. That maybe it is not fully closing or something else is going on.

I dont have any air in the system and only bleed the air gauge to release air when I open the strainer cap on the pump.

However in this case I was opening and closing the cap to the chlorinator a number of times and just wanted to make sure there was no air in the system and again the gage moved which I never recall happening before.

As for the cap i just need to make sure there is no water leaking and that it is tight but not too tight? I guess I was worried that it is not tight enough or after thinking about it that I was making it too tight. Again does it just need to be tight or does it need to be at the tab?

So the bottom line is if everything seems to be ok then just leave it?

Did the gauge move or did the air-relief assembly move? If the assembly, just give it a light turn, by hand, to the right to make sure it is snug against the O ring.
Since I have made a habit of removing those tab feeders from residential pools, I don't remember too much about the Hayward model. It seems the tab is used to prevent the lid from un-threading. If the slot in the lid can't get tight to that point you probably need a new O ring for the lid. Again, though, if it doesn't leak it may not be a problem. If the lid goes past the tab and seals, no problem. I still recommend they be removed and a floating chlorinator used for tablets.

 

[smerls]

Did the gauge move or did the air-relief assembly move? If the assembly, just give it a light turn, by hand, to the right to make sure it is snug against the O ring.
Since I have made a habit of removing those tab feeders from residential pools, I don't remember too much about the Hayward model. It seems the tab is used to prevent the lid from un-threading. If the slot in the lid can't get tight to that point you probably need a new O ring for the lid. Again, though, if it doesn't leak it may not be a problem. If the lid goes past the tab and seals, no problem. I still recommend they be removed and a floating chlorinator used for tablets.

I am not sure if the whole air gage assembly moved, it is possible when I opened it the shoot assembly moved. I did try gently moving it back and it did not move. I just know the top piece that shows the pressure that turns to release air is now facing about a quarter turn or less from where it was facing. When I open and close it it seems normal and it does not seem to be leaking water or air and then pressure is the Seneca’s before, so it was just weird.

Ok as mentioned it does seem to be secure but will try replacing the o ring, I don’t remember the last time it was replaced maybe that will help and maybe have been putting it on tighter than I should.

At this point for the little that I use it except for the cap being it works fine and I don’t
want spend money to take it out at this point.

I have been thinking of switching to salt and if I do that would solve the problem!

Thanks again for your help!

 

[sktn77a]

I think the tab is there to prevent over tightening. This is undoubtedly the most over-designed piece of pool equipment ever. I have gone through several in 30 years of pool ownership. The tab has invariably broken off! As it it, if the o-ring is good, I just tighten the lid until it meets some resistance and leave it there. Never had a leak doing this. When I do get a leak, it's from overtightening and stretching/deforming the o-ring.