Have I created a situation like one of those lakes in the Congo....?

[JH77]

Very new to the pool owning business.
I had a "cloudy pool" last week and I determined that the problem was a sand filter in need of a change.
Unfortunately I had to wait a little while on parts and sand...
Then I broke the plastic pipe, or rather it crumbled as I took the multi-port off.

In the meantime algae took over my pool turning it into a swamp.
Once I got the sand filter up and running (and still somewhat in panic mode) I went to the pool store. They advised 8 packets of shock (Cal-Hypo) STAT. Which I did on Monday along with scrubbing etc.
(I also ordered the T100 test kit and started reading trouble free pool...)
The pool looked MUCH better Tues. I drained some water and added fresh (probably only 10-15%), based on high CYA levels (+/-70ppm on Monday)
I then shocked the pool (4lbs Cal-hypo) on Tuesday night.....
I may have overdone things a little...

My test results as of today

Ph 7.5 -accurate? Given the Chlorine reading???
Cl 31ppm (yes you read that right 31ppm)
Combined Cl 1ppm
CYA -now 45 (partial drain may have helped)
TA 100

So....Am I the Jim Jones of Froggy Jonesville. To be fair, the amphibians seem to be keeping well clear of my chemical experiment. Whereas earlier in the summer they were diving right in.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[duraleigh]

Test your Calcium Hardness. If it is over 200, please stop using Cal Hypo to SLAM (SLAM, don't "shock") and start using plain bleach.....nothing else.

Don't test anything but FC until you finish your SLAM. Follow the SLAM article PERFECTLY and your water will be perfect soon. What does it look like now?

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

 

[Arizonarob]

Read and follow these.....
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

SLAM Process

 

[JH77]

OK thanks for the advice! I appreciate it.

Rained overnight here in MD, I removed worms from the bottom of the pool. Hopefully they ate some Chlorine on their way out.

Ph 7.5
Cl (free) 22ppm
Cl (combined) 1ppm
CYA 45 (ish)
Ca 200ppm

The pool is a beautiful (haha) Bahamanian blue. But I can't see the bottom of the deep end (vis is probably 6-7ft in a 9ft pool)

No chlorine has been added since I got a little carried away on Tuesday night.

Some questions I have...

1. Worms in the pool but combined chlorine hasn't risen? Surely this organic matter would kick it up somewhat?
2. Is the pH reading valid with a Cl of 22ppm?

My plan is another partial drain 10-15% and then refill...

 

[JH77]

A couple more questions from the noob...

3. Is it bad to switch your return valves (not the multiport valves) when the pump is running. I do it when I am setting up the pool-vac.
4. Correct water level for a Hayward S220t sand filter? I was careful not to get sand in the stem. When I filled the tank with water (I did this continuously -water then sand then water) I filled it to about 1inch below the top of the pipe...
5. I guess its normal to have the return jets closest to the pump to have the strongest flow while those at the other end of the pool have the weakest?

 

[Arizonarob]

JH, If you post your questions in the appropriate sub forums you’ll get more help. Only a few people look at this one.

 

[Richard320]

A couple more questions from the noob...
1. Worms in the pool but combined chlorine hasn't risen? Surely this organic matter would kick it up somewhat?

They'd have to be awful big. You're measuring parts per million. Those worms are probably only a trillionth of the pool volume. And they haven't dissolved anyway. Scoop 'em out.

2. Is the pH reading valid with a Cl of 22ppm?

No. And why are you still testing pH? You were advised not to bother with anything but FC & CC until finished.

3. Is it bad to switch your return valves (not the multiport valves) when the pump is running. I do it when I am setting up the pool-vac.

It's not a good practice. Depends on the style of valve, really. You could lossen or damage a rubber seal inside one.

4. Correct water level for a Hayward S220t sand filter? I was careful not to get sand in the stem. When I filled the tank with water (I did this continuously -water then sand then water) I filled it to about 1inch below the top of the pipe...

Any empty space inside has now been filled with water. If the multiport is on top, the air has been purged. If the valve is on the side, open the air bleed while the pump is on until it spits water.

5. I guess its normal to have the return jets closest to the pump to have the strongest flow while those at the other end of the pool have the weakest?

Yes. Pipes have friction. Longer run, lower flow. It's possible to equalize the flow by installing smaller eyeballs in the closer jets. Why don't you wait until the pool is clear before you worry about superficial stuff?

 

[JH77]

They'd have to be awful big. You're measuring parts per million. Those worms are probably only a trillionth of the pool volume. And they haven't dissolved anyway. Scoop 'em out. No. And why are you still testing pH? You were advised not to bother with anything but FC & CC until finished. It's not a good practice. Depends on the style of valve, really. You could lossen or damage a rubber seal inside one.Any empty space inside has now been filled with water. If the multiport is on top, the air has been purged. If the valve is on the side, open the air bleed while the pump is on until it spits water. Yes. Pipes have friction. Longer run, lower flow. It's possible to equalize the flow by installing smaller eyeballs in the closer jets. Why don't you wait until the pool is clear before you worry about superficial stuff?

Thanks for the advice -will let you know what Cl (combined and free) is doing after tonight.