Hard water - alkalinity - High PH

[danbruski]

Hello,
What a great site and group of people. First summer with a pool (see signature). Learning lots from here and the other links. Today I'm learning about SLAM and the value of better testing materials and have them on order. We had nice clean clear looking water (never did proper tests, so only going by looks) until it hit 80° and we got green and translucent such that we couldn't see the bottom. I've been shocking and trying to adjust PH.

I know we need data to make any good recommendations - but as of today, I only have low cost test strips from a hardware store. I'll be following SLAM procedures this weekend and if there's an issue, post back with data on my pool water, and tap water. However, I would like to get advice on how to prep to handle the hard water and high PH.

We used city tap water to fill the pool. We have "Hard" water. Our city reports 25 grains per gallon (428 ppm?)
The test strips (better testers on order) show we are pegged at the highest number on the strips. PH is also pegged. Using the test strips, it's the brightest color on the strip which is 8.4. I added enough "PH Reducer" to bring it down one 1.0 and it made no change at all. After three more full doses, the subsequent test strips finally changed color, but still too high. Likely we were in the 9s.

My plan for today:
I put in three bags of Shock packets yesterday along with some clairifier. I'll switch to just chlorine bleach from now on (per TFP standards?) and not use the shock pouches.
Vacuum tonight
Get PH into the 7s
Put in bleach and CYA per findings on TFP site
Run filter (SWG off) full time
Clean filter and vacuum as needed

While that's getting done tonight, and I wait for the better testers, what should I do to prep for handling the hard water?
Does having such a high PH mean anything else that I should worry about?

Again, No data, No good advice - so just your thoughts on next steps for now so I can order/find what I need.

 

[AimeeH]

Hi. Welcome to TFP. It is true as you know that it is hard to give advice without proper test results. The CYA number is the important one to know how much chlorine to add. Your pool isn't so big could you consider a drain and refill and then use your TF-100 to perfectly balance a newly filled pool?

 

[danbruski]

Yesterday, when green and before adding all the PH reducer I had and the 3 packs of Shock:
CYA : 40
TA: 180
pH: 8+
FC: 0
TC: 0
Total Hardness 500

 

[danbruski]

Correct, only 4500gal or so. We don't fill it all the way up for the 48" max, due to my youngest being about 48" tall. Therefore, we also don't get the right circulation either, the Intex eyeball jet pretty much shoots out to the middle of the pool, and probabaly gets short circuited back to the intake.
I have the TF-100 on order.

 

[danbruski]

...Tap water tested at high pH, so starting over would get me the same hardness and pH, since my source water has those attributes.

 

[jblizzle]

The solution to dealing with high CH, which you can't really do much about, is to just keep better control of the pH and keeping it in the low to mid 7s.
Sounds like your return just is spraying through the air and splashing into the pool. That causes aeration of the water which will result in driving up the pH faster. You might be able to rig up some PVC pipe and fittings to turn the water down so it enters under the water and helps with circulation.

TF-100 was a great choice ... that is going to help clear up the current uncertainty.

 

[danbruski]

I’ve been trying to figure out how to rig something. There must be other people out there with the same question. Maybe I’ll search around on this forum for any ideas.

 

[gonfishin]

I haven't had an Intex pool in over 5 years, but I think the return is theaded. If so, you can use threaded PVC end, PVC elbow, and pipe to create an angle so the end of the pipe is below the level of the water.

 

[Fast7]

You need to start adding chlorine to your pool. Your water already looks green and cloudy.
Don't add anymore dry shocks or pucks. Get some muriatic acid, you will need it to lower pH.
Until you figure out how to get return water enter pool below water surface, you will have to deal with high pH increase.

 

[danbruski]

I couldn’t find Muriatic acid at Walmart or Menards. At least not in the pool section. I did find the Dry Acid and used some of that. I also added a few bottles of chlorine per Pool Math. It’s starting to clear up.

 

[gonfishin]

I usually get my MA in the paint section.