Happy 2025 nice to hear from you again

monsterman

Bronze Supporter
May 26, 2020
671
New york
Hello all. I hope your off-season is going well. Here it is cold, mostly in the 20's. But spring on the calendar is only 1 and 1/2 months away. So pool season here being about June is within sight. LOL.
Back when last season ended and the leaves fell like wild I kept skimming the winter cover for a few weeks and got 90-955 of the leaves and debris off of the cover to make the 2025 opening less cumbersome. I will do more as the water on the cover thaws in March and April. Hopefully, all will be really good this year. I believe the order to do things properly is as follows. If I am wrong please correct me. (LOL)
1)remove the cover and clean and brush cover
2)Fill pool
3)Brush the sides and bottom of the pool and around the stairs
4)Vacuum pool
5)check and add chemicals
5)Start the filter and leave it on for 24 hours.

The only question of the order is - do I put the filter on before adding the chemicals or is the filter the last thing to do?

Thanks again and hope you all have a great rest of your winter season.
 
Hey MM and Welcome back !!
1)remove the cover and clean and brush cover
2)Fill pool
3)Brush the sides and bottom of the pool and around the stairs
4)Vacuum pool
5)check and add chemicals
5)Start the filter and leave it on for 24 hours.
All good but mix for 24 hours before testing and adjusting. (y)

You can assemble the equipment while the pool is filling, or even get it mostly set up one of the warmer weekends before you're ready so there's less to do when you open.

Remeber to let the thermometer dictate your opening, not the calender. If it's warmer early, it's time to open.

Also remember that the early/late season doesn't need nearly as much effort so its no big deal to open if it's warmer but still too cool to want to swim. Better to be open and not feel like swimming yet than to wait too long and get a swamp. Once a week (?) doses of chlorine in the early season are well worth the 5 mins they take.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored
Also, tftestkits.net is planning a 20% off sale for refills from March 1 to March 30.
 
Nice talking with you again(chatting? writing? LOL) I will be on the lookout for test kits sale. Thank you. As for your recommendations above- On Number 5 - you mentioned to CHECK and add chemicals and then as a postscript you said to let the filter run for 24 hours and then TEST and ADJUST. Do I add ANYTHING after filling the pool OR should I WAIT for the 24 hours to go by before adding anything?
 
Mix before testing at all. Once it's well mixed, test and adjust, then test to confirm you hit your targets.
 
Mix before testing at all. Once it's well mixed, test and adjust, then test to confirm you hit your targets.
sorry to sound like I am lost but I am LOL--- when you say MIX before testing- MIX what? just the water being filtered? with NO bleach etc? Then AFTER the 24 hours do my FIRST testing and add and adjust? Sorry for the confusion on my part.
 
You know the rules old friend, ask as many times as you need and we'll be happy to rewind or slow down. :)

Yes. Mix the water well with the pump/filter before testing. Then test.

The FC, Ph and TA don't need long, a half hour mixing is probably plenty. CYA and calcium need a full day before you trust them, although you don't care about Calcium with a vinyl pool.
 
You know the rules old friend, ask as many times as you need and we'll be happy to rewind or slow down. :)

Yes. Mix the water well before testing. Then test.

The FC, Ph and TA don't need long, a half hour mixing is probably plenty. CYA and calcium need a full day before you trust them, although you don't care about Calcium with a vinyl pool.
Thank you for your kindness--I appreciate you and the others.
P.S. From what I remember from last year - IF and that is an "IF" I purchase a pool heater then and only then Do I need to test for CH??
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Bingo. Gas heaters want 200 CH for warranty purposes. Heat pumps don't matter if you go that route instead.
Hello, I just logged in and saw your reply- so if I buy the gas heater, I need to keep my CH at 200 for the heater to remain under warranty? I am not sure what my values were last year, but I know that I rarely tested for CH since I have a vinyl pool, and all was good when I did test for it. Can you remind me of what the proper value for CH is for a vinyl pool with NO heater? I just read someone else's post about warranties on a heater. Their response was-- how does the heater company know if the CH is within the range they want? And if I do get a heater and do NOT keep the CH within the range they request, does that do damage to the heater elements? Because, as I stated last year, we had a heater many years ago, and my pool was not controlled properly at that time(before TFP helped me), and I was putting in baking soda and powdered shock and the rest, and my heater coils rotted away. So I guess that is why they want the CH at certain levels. By doing this, will it HOPEFULLY extend the life of the heater? Thank you for helping
 
Last edited:
I need to keep my CH at 200 for the heater to remain under warranty?
Yup. It's easiest to just go along with it, it doesn't hurt anything.
I am not sure what my values were last year
It was 50 the last time you logged the result 9 months ago. If you didn't add any cal-hypo shock, it's 25 ish by now from rain.
Can you remind me of what the proper value for CH is for a vinyl pool with NO heater?
Its of no concern. We have 25 or 50 in our fill water and the rain keeps it below that. Some places they have 250 CH and no rain so it accumulates from lots of evaporation and filling.
 
Yup. It's easiest to just go along with it, it doesn't hurt anything.

It was 50 the last time you logged the result 9 months ago. If you didn't add any cal-hypo shock, it's 25 ish by now from rain.

Its of no concern. We have 25 or 50 in our fill water and the rain keeps it below that. Some places they have 250 CH and no rain so it accumulates from lots of evaporation and filli

Ok-- so if I bring up my CH to let's say 200 if the manufacturer says that- then that is fine for the WHOLE pool as well? And what would you recommend bringing up the CH with?- what product that will not raise or hurt any other value? And just follow pool math to figure out the quantity of this product you will suggest to raise the CH from my 50 of last year to 200? I know a lot of questions, but I want to do this right again. My brain goes on vacation over the winter months, and it needs a little jolt. LOL If I may, I would like to ask you another question. As you know, I am ahead of the game with my pool cover cleaning. I have removed ALL leaves from the winter months that accumulated on the cove,r and now it is just water. I am draining some off now, even though it is about 2 months from my opening. I just want to attach a picture of my pool top and have your opinion on the loss of water that my pool seems to go through every winter. Is this normal?l Lastly, I am attaching a picture of a different winter cover than what I have. I am only showing this to you because every year I have to drain the top of the pool cover of all the water that has accumulated on it. With this SELF Draining Winter Cover- is this something you recommend? Do they really work and help prevent me from every spring of draining my cover with my submersible sump pump? What do you suggest? And thank you again for helping- you have no idea how helpful you are.:)


IMG_6880[1].JPGIMG_6881[1].JPGIMG_E6891[1].JPG
 
Last edited:
so if I bring up my H to lets us say 200 if the manufacture says that- then that is fine for the WHOLE pool as well?
Yup. No problem whatsoever.
And what would you recommend me bringing up the CH with?
I like puritech brand on Amazon. It's usually around $2 a pound. It lasts forever when stored cool and dry so if the larger than you need bag is a better deal, go for it.
And just follow pool math
Unless you want to calculate it with a pencil. I'm WAY too lazy for that. 😁


you will suggest to say raise he CH from my 50 of last year to 200?
We'll test first as always. I'll guess 0 to 25 but it's just a guess. Maybe it was 250 and you mistyped 9 months ago.

For how much to initially purchase, buy at least 200ppm worth. Maybe you'll lose half during the season so 300 or 400 worth is totally reasonable.
I know a lot of questions but I want to do this right again
Please ask anytime old friend.
My brain goes on vacation over the winter months and it needs a little jolt
Mine goes on mini vacations all year. Sometimes back to back. :cheers:


have your opinion on the loss of water that my pool seems to go through every winter. Is this normal"??
If the cover has any holes or damage, you'll pump pool water through the cover.
With this SELF Draining Winter Cover- is this something you recommend ? Do they really work and help prevent me from every spring of draining my cover with my submersible sump pump? what do you suggest?
I would not use it. We get about 3ft of off season rain and you will be pumping said 3 ft either way. As sucky as it is, it's easier when it's on top of the cover.
And thank you again for help;ing- you have no idea how helpful you are.
We got you. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: monsterman
just purchased today :)
Hello, I have a question for you, and I hope you can help... I ordered the refill kit when we last spoke back on 03/27/25. I received an e-mail stating that the order was complete, BUT since the,n the USPS site says this---

Pre-Shipment
Shipping Label Created, USPS Awaiting Item
CREEDMOOR, NC 27522
March 27, 2025, 11:09 am
There has been no movement since then. I have responded to that email from TFP stating my order was complete, asking why I have not received the kit yet, or why it has not even received the item yet, as you can see by the USPS response saying awaiting item. Is there something IK can do to make sure I receive this item? :(