H400 Ignition Issues

Kram21

Member
Feb 14, 2021
12
Perth
Hi
I got a new Hayward natural gas H400 heater 2 years ago but I wasnt ready to install it, so it sat in storage then after installation it sat in position for a few months while other renovations were completed. The gas was connected on Friday and the unit is igniting for a second or 2 but not staying lit. After 3 attempts the ignition controller LED flashes 3 times (for ignition fault and gas valve is locked out). Gas can be smelt between cycles.

After reading a few posts on here and other sites, I removed the flame sensor which looked in ok condition, but I gave the metal portion a clean anyway with some wire wool. I reinstalled it, checked the wiring back to the controller and tried to start the heater, still the same issue.

I then removed the ignitor to prove it was sparking and it sparked. I tried to start the heater, still the same issue.

I then connected my Fluke 117 MM set to DC Amps (It can read a minimum 0.001A) in series between the spade connectors of the flame detector and ignition controller. The zero reading on the display didnt change. However, I have since read the reading should be 3-5 microamps, so I need to source another MM with can read microamps and retry.

Whilst i try to locate the MM, I'm thinking of checking the burner manifold orifices for spider webs (just in case) and if these are clear organise my gas plumber to perform the gas pressure test as described on page 24.

Any further trouble shooting advice welcome. Thanks
 

If the heat goes out within a few seconds of coming on you can have a clogged orifice, very left hand one, at the ignition and flame sense area. Spiders seem to like that orifice. Turn gas off at the external gas valve. Remove the gas pipe to the main valve, remove the 4 screws holding the manifold in place, examine all the orifices.

If you see a clog, remove the orifice (3/8" or 7/16" wrench, depending on what Hayward installed) and push the clog backward out of the orifice. If you don't remove the orifice the clog will just move to another area.

These are the easiest manifolds to remove and replace. While it is easier if you remove the wires from the main valve, you don't have to if you are careful. If you do, take a cell-phone picture first to put them back where the belong.

Be sure to use a bit of thread sealant when reassembling the gas line EXCEPT on the union. Make that very tight. Do not tighten the pipe into the main valve beyond where the old sealant shows, you can crack that valve if you overtighten. Use some soapy water to check for leaks. If not comfortable working on gas plumbing, hire a pro.
 

If the heat goes out within a few seconds of coming on you can have a clogged orifice, very left hand one, at the ignition and flame sense area. Spiders seem to like that orifice. Turn gas off at the external gas valve. Remove the gas pipe to the main valve, remove the 4 screws holding the manifold in place, examine all the orifices.

If you see a clog, remove the orifice (3/8" or 7/16" wrench, depending on what Hayward installed) and push the clog backward out of the orifice. If you don't remove the orifice the clog will just move to another area.

These are the easiest manifolds to remove and replace. While it is easier if you remove the wires from the main valve, you don't have to if you are careful. If you do, take a cell-phone picture first to put them back where the belong.

Be sure to use a bit of thread sealant when reassembling the gas line EXCEPT on the union. Make that very tight. Do not tighten the pipe into the main valve beyond where the old sealant shows, you can crack that valve if you overtighten. Use some soapy water to check for leaks. If not comfortable working on gas plumbing, hire a pro.
Thanks I'll try that next before having to pay out to get a gas pressure test done..
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.