- May 3, 2014
- 62,706
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It is extremely acidic. That inhibits algae growth. You would not want to swim in that water. Close to vinegar.
Guess it is Time to Drain Some Water...
- Thread starter drkmacleod
- Start date
Not sure I am still very new to this. The water was very clear, before adding the baking soda.
If I am going to drain most of this water does it make sense to try and get the chemical balance correct? I already added the baking soda going to test again now.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,706
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No. Goal was to raise the TA to stop damage. Now do the water exchange.
Okay, So tested again this am. Here are the results. I also re did the CYA and multiplied by 3 to see where I was. It rained a lot here last night so there is that to consider too.
FC- 5
pH- 6.8
TA- 120
CH- 700
CYA- 240
CSI- -0.45
Should I move forward with the water exchange? If so what is the best practice for this? Fill with hose as I am draining or wait? Do I need to worry about getting any of the other water chemistry correct before moving forward? I am going to Lowes this am and planed on picking up some washing soada to help with PH and TA. Thank you all for your help
FC- 5
pH- 6.8
TA- 120
CH- 700
CYA- 240
CSI- -0.45
Should I move forward with the water exchange? If so what is the best practice for this? Fill with hose as I am draining or wait? Do I need to worry about getting any of the other water chemistry correct before moving forward? I am going to Lowes this am and planed on picking up some washing soada to help with PH and TA. Thank you all for your help
- May 3, 2014
- 62,706
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Doing a no drain water exchange now. Now I wait......
Well I have added and removed water for 15 hours at around 6.7 gal a min. I just went out to test my CYA and it's still over 100. I did not do the multiplier test since I know it's already high. I am filling front the shallow end I have the hose on a bucket on the second stair, and I am pumping from the deep end. Really frustrated... Any advise?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,706
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Did you use the calculation in the Wiki I posted to determine how you should be doing the exchange?
I misread that originally... I did the math and I filled the wrong way. I was under the impression if the water was similar in temp you filled from the bottom and then filled from the top. I didn't know that I needed to do a TDS test, after doing I did the opposite of what I was supposed to do. I guess I am now back at square one?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,706
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You would be best to turn on your pool pump, circulate and brush the pool, run tests, and start over.
Yes, that's what I figured, and what I did.
FC- 1.5 (I added 2.6 gal of bleach to keep algae at bay until I make the next move)
pH- 6.8
TA- 90
CH- 280
CYA- 120
CSI- -.086
FC- 1.5 (I added 2.6 gal of bleach to keep algae at bay until I make the next move)
pH- 6.8
TA- 90
CH- 280
CYA- 120
CSI- -.086
Don't get frustrated. Your water didnt get like this overnight, wont be overnight either. Just follow the proces.
Thanks RLP, it was hot yesterday and today, so I was hot, and mad at myself for not paying closer attention to the link. Im calmed down now and will take advice as its comes. The numbers do look better than they did so we are heading in the right direction already. Trying to make a choice on a SWG now so I can have it waiting once I get the pool chemistry correct.
You are making good progress.
Just stay on track and you will be fine.
www.troublefreepool.com
Just stay on track and you will be fine.
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Thanks, leaning curve is steep haha. Looks like I have 17 more hours of water exchange, I will do it the correct way this time.You are making good progress.
Just stay on track and you will be fine.
2024 Annual Donation Campaign
Hi all, Thanks to the fervent support of the TFP community, we have met our $10,000 goal! We appreciate all the users in this thread hyping the campaign and sharing warm and fuzzy TFP anecdotes. Completion of this campaign reminds us that TFP is a resource that people can trust with their pool...
So, in the Wiki it talks about starting and not stopping until you remove all the water you are planning to remove. Is there any way this can be done over a period of multiple days? It would be nice If I could do it when I get home from work in the evening from like 5-9 Monday - Thursday, and then Friday since I leave the shop early I can finish the rest of it off then. What is the downside to doing it this way?
It will have more time to mix, minimizing your efforts.
Sometimes it is what it is, but you need as much working in your favor as possible.
This makes sense, it also has me thinking... my sump pump is faster than the water going in so I have to monitor the level of the water and turn the pump off as needed. So the process was, to turn both the water and the sump on for 45min turn the pump off, let the water run for 1.5hrs, and turn the pump on for 45mins while leaving the water on. My guess is this is allowing the water to mix as well. This is really the only option that I have other than getting a smaller pump.
Raise the discharge hose up high to introduce more "head" to the pump. this will reduce the volume of water being pumped. Head is the height that the water needs to be lifted vertically before turning horizontal.
And / or put a pvc ball valve in the discharge and throttle it down to match the fill volume.
And / or put a pvc ball valve in the discharge and throttle it down to match the fill volume.