grey spots- diamond brite
- Thread starter builder_bob504
- Start date
If your SLAMming yes it should be done at shock level. If you would want to rule out the presence of organics it can be preformed at an elevated FC level. If you lose more than one ppm at shock level or an elevated level your still losing more than one ppm, which would indicate the presence of organics. ?
Even at normal levels he lost zero. If he had something consuming chlorine it would have shown. ?
I'm no chemist but-
to reiterate, overnight OCLT this past weekend had FC remaining at 5, 0 CC before and after. if organics were present, wouldn't these numbers have changed?
to reiterate, overnight OCLT this past weekend had FC remaining at 5, 0 CC before and after. if organics were present, wouldn't these numbers have changed?
If you had something consuming chlorine your FC level would have changed and you would probably have some CC's present.
Going forward I would target 8 for your FC level and don't let it drop below 4. ?
Going forward I would target 8 for your FC level and don't let it drop below 4. ?
I've always been using these Pool School recommended levels-
FC 3 to 7
PH 7.5 to 7.8
TA 70 to 90+
CH 250 to 350
CYA 30 to 50
which begs the question- why and FC of 8?
FC 3 to 7
PH 7.5 to 7.8
TA 70 to 90+
CH 250 to 350
CYA 30 to 50
which begs the question- why and FC of 8?
For your CYA of 50 I like to recommend the target of 8 and not below 4. The target of 8 gives you more wiggle room so you don't fall below your min. 7 would be fine also. ?
I should clarify from my original/first post that I was using Hach strips to test. The strips don't test for CC, which led to confusion (on my part coupled with poor eyesight) when first reporting levels. I think this confusion directed this thread toward organic. Recent testing with the TF100 and other steps have pretty much eliminated organics. Why raise FC to 8 if spots aren't organic?
It's just normal FC range to maintain. You don't have to target 8. Was just a suggestion. During the course of the day you will lose FC from the sun and bathers. It's your call. ?
FC/CYA Chart
FC/CYA Chart
heavy use yesterday. will retest this morning and post results later.
pool school levels sort of contradict, ideal chemistry for plaster (diamond brite) has FC at 3-7 with CYA of 50. chart link you posted suggests FC 3-6 at CYA of 50. I've always tried to target the pool school levels (CYA 50) but obviously things change and need to be individually adjusted.
thanks for trying to help
pool school levels sort of contradict, ideal chemistry for plaster (diamond brite) has FC at 3-7 with CYA of 50. chart link you posted suggests FC 3-6 at CYA of 50. I've always tried to target the pool school levels (CYA 50) but obviously things change and need to be individually adjusted.
thanks for trying to help
But, the minimum FC with CYA of 50 is 4, not 3. The 4 to 8 is the FC range suggested by PoolMath.
with Bleach
FC 3-7 (See chart) http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
pH 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90+
CH 250-350
CYA 30-50
Copper stains? Try some dry acid in a sock on the stain for a minute or two and see if it lightens.Have you used anything that would add copper to the pool?
used to use trichlor tabs but stopped and switched to bleach and baking soda when spots showed up last year. my thought at that time was it might have been something in tabs (5% other materials on label.) applicator tested for copper and iron both. zero. have not tried dry acid in sock. did try a trichlor tab on spots with no change. added bleach last night. retested this morning.
FC- 7.5
CC- 0
TA- 70
CH- 240
CYA- 50
PH- 7.5
the target levels I posted are from the Pool School chemical levels based on surface type http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels
if these are incorrect, what levels should I be using?
FC- 7.5
CC- 0
TA- 70
CH- 240
CYA- 50
PH- 7.5
the target levels I posted are from the Pool School chemical levels based on surface type http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels
if these are incorrect, what levels should I be using?
If copper is attached to a pool in the form of a stain, it may not show up in a water test.
Some tabs do contain copper. Let us know what happens with the dry acid approach.
Some tabs do contain copper. Let us know what happens with the dry acid approach.
This is the correct RANGE of suggested #'s, based on surface type. The FC is based on the CYA. 4 FC is minimum for 50 CYA.
they took diamond brite sample from under one of the drains for testing. water has not been tested recently.
retested this morning- afternoon showers yesterday
FC- 7
CC- 0
TA- 70
CH- 240
CYA- 50
PH- 7.5
FC- 7
CC- 0
TA- 70
CH- 240
CYA- 50
PH- 7.5
I've been taking daily pictures of spots. comparing the photos it appears spots are in fact not moving as I had originally thought. continuing daily testing with TF100- added calcium hardener 9/8. test results have been pretty much constant.
FC- 8
CC- 0
TA- 70
CH- 310
CYA- 50
PH- 7.5
next step will be to empty and refill with city water.
after reading through other posts here about stain problems I'm wondering the reason why stains diminish/disappear at night and reappear during daylight?
FC- 8
CC- 0
TA- 70
CH- 310
CYA- 50
PH- 7.5
next step will be to empty and refill with city water.
after reading through other posts here about stain problems I'm wondering the reason why stains diminish/disappear at night and reappear during daylight?