Green swamp at opening

[proavia]

I believe, but I'm happy to be corrected, because she has the side mount MPV, she can deep clean from the top cleanout, and isolate the plumbing by closing the MPV.

I found this online:

Multiport Valve Settings Demystified

Dr Pool defines each pool filter multiport valve setting, what each valve position does, and when to use them.

blog.intheswim.com

I believe recirculate bypasses the filter completely. Water still runs from the pump, thru the MP valve and returns directly to the pool, without being filtered.

 

[mknauss]

but it always runs at 80%

If you wish, you likely can reduce that to 40% with no ill effects other than more money in your pocket each month. Check your SWCG at the lower pump rate to be sure the flow switch is closed.

 

[WhitB08]

Exactly 2 weeks in. Sticking with it, but haven’t seen visible improvement in many days. The picture on the left is current and the one with the dog was 5 days ago and it was cloudy then and sunny today. It’s like my filter isn’t doing anything. Also, I checked my CC this morning and it’s still 1.

 

[PoolStored]

So the last few recommendations:
1) Are you scrubbing, at least daily, all surfaces?
2) Did you backwash? (and note if gauge goes to 0 and clean pressure at 80% speed?)
3) Did you try adding DE (which may help filtering)? Add DE to a Sand Filter

 

[Texas Splash]

I agree, something's not quite right. So far we've determined LED light don't need to be removed, and that your handrail(s) (now removed) probably had some junk in them. But something is still eating chlorine. Perhaps the only thing I don't recall being noted was a main drain. I'm assuming you have a drain cover or two on the floor? If so, it may be time to dive down there and try to remove the cover(s). Those can also accumulate junk over time, and if no one ever cleaned them since 2013, it's possible those are holding some junk.

Last, perhaps time to confirm your CYA again? I don't recall your last CYA test, but you want to ensure you are maintaining the proper FC (SLAM) level.

 

[WhitB08]

So at the beginning I thought my CYA was 40. When I got my test kit refill it was not measuring at all, so my target was much higher than it needed to be. I was using a large refill I had ordered over a year ago for the CYA test and it did not have an expiration date but I’m guessing it was no good anymore. I added about half of the recommended amount to boost it up 10 ppm trying to get it up to 30. During that time I had reduced my slam FC target based off of having 20 ppm. I have been checking CYA regularly and as soon as it reached 30, I adjusted my slam target accordingly. Yesterday I decided to up my slam target to 16 as if my CYA was 40 just to be safe because I hate that test and maybe someone might read it as 40.

 

[Texas Splash]

Since earlier you attempted a couple CYA "boosts" to try and increase the CYA, now may be a good time to really try and validate the CYA. It's too important not to be sure. Feel free to use the reference below if it helps.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.

 

[Texas Splash]

With cloudy water and an elevated CC, it appears the chlorine is struggling. That would either be from algae, the sun, or both. Two weeks is a long time, even with that green start. I'm sure you are adding chlorine throughout the day as best as you can.

Normally we don't even think about doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at this point until the water is clear, but we might consider something different here. Once you confirm your CYA level, and if there is any junk under the main drain cover(s), it might be interesting to try an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test just so we can get a really good idea of how much FC is being consumed in darkness with no competition from the sun. You don't have to do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight, no big rush. But at some point soon if there is no improvement it may be a good diagnostic tool in this case to help see what's going on with FC loss.

 

[WhitB08]

With cloudy water and an elevated CC, it appears the chlorine is struggling. That would either be from algae, the sun, or both. Two weeks is a long time, even with that green start. I'm sure you are adding chlorine throughout the day as best as you can.

Normally we don't even think about doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at this point until the water is clear, but we might consider something different here. Once you confirm your CYA level, and if there is any junk under the main drain cover(s), it might be interesting to try an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test just so we can get a really good idea of how much FC is being consumed in darkness with no competition from the sun. You don't have to do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight, no big rush. But at some point soon if there is no improvement it may be a good diagnostic tool in this case to help see what's going on with FC loss.

I did OCLT and passed last night. I can check my notes, but I did it at least a week ago and also pass with a .5 ppm loss. I’ve just been doing that periodically out of curiosity and checking the cc to try and see if this cloudiness is dead algae or some thing is still in there because there is hardly any invisibility.

 

[WhitB08]

Since earlier you attempted a couple CYA "boosts" to try and increase the CYA, now may be a good time to really try and validate the CYA. It's too important not to be sure. Feel free to use the reference below if it helps.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.

I am pretty positive that it is 30. I am well-versed on how to do the test, because I read different instructions all the time and test it often because I’m always worried about not having an accurate CYA result. I keep a large bottle of R-0013. On a sunny day with the sun to my back when I keep staring at the dot it’s definitely 30. When I test in that same manner but follow other instructions some others give to add the solution just up to each measurement and then quickly glanced down, the dot is a cloudy but definitely still noticeable at 40, just harder to notice with a quick glance. But it’s gone with a quick glance at 30. I tested CYA yesterday. I last added granular stabilizer nine days ago and I only added half the amount that it should’ve taken to get from 20 to 30. It took about five or six days for it to fully break down and test as 30.

 

[Newdude]

It been a couple of weeks for us helpers too, and my memory isn't what it once was, so apologies if we've been over this already....

When was the last time you deep cleaned the filter ?

Does backwashing have the desired affect of going swampy to clear in the sight glass?

 

[Texas Splash]

I did OCLT and passed last night.

Between passing an OCLT, an elevated CC, and that "uninviting" water, something is amiss for sure. Since your thread here is getting a bit long, it might be good for everyone watching/helping to recap a few things (even some very basic things), just to ensure we're not missing something okay? So bear with me on this one as I'm sure somewhere you've probably answered some of these already:
- Pool built in 2013; you've lived there past 7 years.
- Passed (more than once) the OCLT in the past week.
- Still showing an elevated CC (1.0) w/ murky water.
- No light niche to worry about, only LED lighting.
- No hallow steps, but there was a handrail that was recently removed which produced evidence of iron (which we know is present).
- Still considering inspecting the main drain cover(s) if present - PENDING
- Recent CYA verified as 30, SLAM FC level would be 12.
- Only remaining exposed area I can see from the pics would be the skimmer area. We can assume you've cleaned that multiple times already.
- Sand filter not yet deep cleaned. If sand is compacted or has channeling, that could explain slow filtering results, but not the elevated CC.
- No other ports or exposed areas in the water correct?
- In your time being in this house, you have only used liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, basking soda, etc. Simple TFP items correct? No pool store snake oil products? I see you confirmed no other products in past 7 years other than TFP recommended items.

 

[WhitB08]

It been a couple of weeks for us helpers too, and my memory isn't what it once was, so apologies if we've been over this already....

When was the last time you deep cleaned the filter ?

Does backwashing have the desired affect of going swampy to clear in the sight glass?

I know! I’m sorry I’ve had so many question, but I have been feeling like things have not been progressing as they should for the last almost week. I have not needed to backwash since the very first day, exactly 2 weeks ago. My pump always runs at the same speed and it moved from 20 psi to 21 and the returns had diminished pressure. After backwashing, it went back to 20 psi and had regular, strong force from the returns again and has remained there. Even though I still have the same psi and strong force from the returns at the pool I think I want to backwash this afternoon and just see if it helps. The site glass did not get clear the first time I backwashed because the water was still very green. The filter has also never been deep cleaned and I mentioned that in this thread this weekend, but was advised it might be best just to hold off on that because a dirtier filter may work better with these really fine particles.

 

[Texas Splash]

I forgot to ask this also ... is the SWG still off?

And what is your water temp?

 

[Texas Splash]

The two pics you posted in Post #83, are those from today? They almost look exactly the same as from last Wednesday.

 

[WhitB08]

Between passing an OCLT, an elevated CC, and that "uninviting" water, something is amiss for sure. Since your thread here is getting a bit long, it might be good for everyone watching/helping to recap a few things (even some very basic things), just to ensure we're not missing something okay? So bear with me on this one as I'm sure somewhere you've probably answered some of these already:
- Passed (more than once) the OCLT in the past week.
- Still showing an elevated CC (1.0) w/ murky water.
- No light niche to worry about, only LED lighting.
- No hallow steps, but there was a handrail that was recently removed which produced evidence of iron (which we know is present).
- Still considering inspecting the main drain cover(s) if present - PENDING
- Recent CYA verified as 30, SLAM FC level would be 12.
- Only remaining exposed area I can see from the pics would be the skimmer area. We can assume you've cleaned that multiple times already.
- Sand filter not yet deep cleaned. If sand is compacted or has channeling, that could explain slow filtering results, but not the elevated CC.
- No other ports or exposed areas in the water correct?
- In your time being in this house, you have only used liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, basking soda, etc. Simple TFP items correct? No pool store snake oil products?

This is all accurate other than the fact that I do let someone else close the pool and he may have put chemicals in it in the past, but last year I’m only aware of pucks in the floater.
The only other non TFP advised thing I did at the beginning of this was when I ran out of muriatic acid when trying to lower my pH, the local pool store only had dry acid and I used that to finish getting the pH down low enough to start the slam.

 

[WhitB08]

I forgot to ask this also ... is the SWG still off?

And what is your water temp?

I know! I had a ton of improvement really quickly at first, but I was also way over doing it on the FC because I thought my CYA was 40 when it was actually lower than 30.
water temp is currently 60, but we’ve had some big swings over the last two weeks since I’ve started. It’s gotten up to 72 (water temp) during the first week of the slam but was in the 50s the last few days. SWG is off. I have not even added the salt for the season yet because I wanted to wait until I could see the bottom to make sure it’s all brushed up really well.

 

[Newdude]

The filter has also never been deep cleaned and I mentioned that in this thread this weekend, but was advised it might be best just to hold off on that because a dirtier filter may work better with these really fine particles.

Yeah we were going with the statistics that the filter was likely fine.

With very slow progress I believe further investigation into the filter is now warranted. We may not get an answer, but we can cross it off the suspect list once it's been deep cleaned. You'll know right away if the sand is salvageable once you're in there. Even if it's filthy, so long as it's sand like, it will clean as good as new. If it's clumped up and rubbery, (think cat box) it's been ruined with floccs and such.

 

[Texas Splash]

With very slow progress I believe further investigation into the filter is now warranted.

I agree. When you get a chance, pop the cork on that filter and let us know what gastly deeds you uncover. Hopefully it's obviously filthy with crud which might explain your issues. If not, then we go to plan B, C, D or E.

Do your best to maintain the SLAM though. You started your SLAM on 28 Mar, so you're right at the two week mark. Should be very close.

 

[WhitB08]

Yeah we were going with the statistics that the filter was likely fine.

With very slow progress I believe further investigation into the filter is now warranted. We may not get an answer, but we can cross it off the suspect list once it's been deep cleaned. You'll know right away if the sand is salvageable once you're in there. Even if it's filthy, so long as it's sand like, it will clean as good as new. If it's clumped up and rubbery, (think cat box) it's been ruined with floccs and such.

OK. I’ve read the articles about that. My multiport is on the side of the pump, so if I understand correctly, I turn off the pump, turn the multi port to either recirculate or closed to isolate the filter from the other plumbing?? Then, proceed with the deep clean and finish with a backwash and rinse?