Green pool

brightgirl1

Member
Apr 1, 2020
10
Pierre Part,Louisiana
Hi all! I’m new to caring for pools as I’m trying to help my parents open their pool for the swim season. My parents are not new to this as they have owned this pool for 30+ years. However, they choose to allow the pool to get filthy during the winter months then spend gobs of money in the spring to rectify what they didn’t want to deal with over the fall and winter months. I’m trying to help them save a few dollars and wear and tear on their bodies so I’m trying to learn how to clear this monster up. They never really gained deep knowledge about balancing pool chemicals, they just relied on pool supply shops to tell them what they need and help them to spend loads of money doing so. So with all that being said , I’ll describe the current and past condition of the pool. The pool is dark green with visibility only about 6-8 inches. Starting on Saturday of last week my parents dumped regular dichlor? granules (the stuff with stabilizer in it) Into the pool. I have no idea how much of this stuff my dad has used....I then visit on Sunday. I decide to spend a few days to help them manage the pool. In my infancy of research, I decide we should add algaecide to the pool because that should kill the ecosystem growing in there. Well, it didn’t work but of course you already know that! After further research, I send dad out to purchase some cal hypo since several websites said this should do the trick. So later that morning after the algaecide did nothing we threw 7ish lbs of cal hypo in the pool to begin the shock process. OF course that did nothing as well. Then I further read that we should shock in the evening and not in the morning. So that evening, we throw another 7lbs of cal hypo into the pool. Hoping to see some good results we wake up Tuesday and much to our dismay, the pool was still green. I used their test kit to check the chlorine level and it was off the chart since their kits only test up to 5 ppm. I will order the tf100 tomorrow for more accurate readings. After seeing the results we decide we need to head on over to the pool supply place to get a digital read out. I’ll attach the results below. According the Pool Place readout, they gave my dad some stuff to reduce the metals in the pool, which they said was causing it to stay green. I know he didn’t tell them the whole big picture ??‍♀️ and that’s why I’m here now. We did put the metal be gone stuff in the pool (Sorry I don’t know the correct brand). So after reading some of your forums, it may be that our FC to CYA ratio may not be correct to kill the ecosystem flourishing in the pool currently. We have a 22,000 gallon pool. I’m sure you need to know that. After the digital readout, we were told not to add any more chlorine to the pool. I may be a little impatient but I thought after 5 days I would see some sort of color change. The have a Hayward sand filter and the sand is fresh as of last swimming season. We did retest the FC again and it was still off the chart as of today. I don’t think their test kit can test for cya. I’ve attached the pool place readout and picks of the pool. Also , I have been brushing the pool walls twice daily and Wondering if we should vacuum even though we can’t see the bottom at all? All help will be greatly appreciated!!! TIA ?
 

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Thanks for helping your parents! They’re going to have the best pool on the block if you and them learn the TFP way!
Looks like you’ve got some work ahead of you. Before adding any more shock or any chemicals what so ever, you’re going to need to prep your pool for a SLAM.
The very very first thing is to order a complete test kit so that you can do your own testing and not rely on the pool store.
TFP sells a fantastic kit called the TF100.
www.Tftestkits.net

While waiting for your test kit to arrive, The second thing you need to tackle is your CYA level. Target range for a chlorine pool is between 30-60. The only way to lower the CYA is to partially drain the water. I am not an expert, so please wait for one of them to chime in with the amount of water to replace and the proper method for your type of pool, location and ground situation.

Third, while waiting for the CYA to come down, grab your favorite beverage and read about the TFP SLAM method.


FORTH, create a signature and tell us all about mom and dads pool. Size, pool surface, equipment and such.

When your test kit arrives you’ll take a full set of test results and return to this thread and post them. You’ll follow the SLAM procedure adjusting your PH, then raising and maintaining your FC level to according to your CYA. When the water is clear you will do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) and cc test and return your FC level to normal.
 
Hi and welcome to the best pool forum in the universe. The first order of the day is for you to sit down with your dad over coffee and make a decision of " are we going to keep running all over to buy all kinds of chemicals to throw at the pool hoping something good should come out of it or are we going to stick to ONE plan and that's us here at TROUBLE FREE POOLS (TFP). Pool stores will sell you anything as long as your wallet is ready but that doesn't come with any kind of methodology for how to get out of trouble and move on. For our method to work there needs to be consistency no matter what your friends, uncles or cousins tell you. We can and will get you through it and it won't happen in 2 days. It's a commitment which works out in the end. For starters you need to read ABC's Of pool chemistry
 
Got my pool test kit in and here are the results
FC 1
CC 2.5
TC 3.5
Ph 7.2
CH 375
TA 170
CYA 80
Ready to get this party started!

On a side Note, I know it’s best to use liquid chlorine but my parents just recently bought a 5 gallon bucket calcium hypo chlorite so I would like to use that if possible.
 
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Got my pool test kit in and here are the results
FC 1
CC 2.5
TC 3.5
Ph 7.2
CH 375
TA 170
CYA 80
Ready to get this party started!

On a side Note, I know it’s best to use liquid chlorine but my parents just recently bought a 5 gallon bucket calcium hypo chlorite so I would like to use that if possible.
Not really on your question. You need plain simple bleach/chlorine and start slam. The CC level is high make sure theres nothing visible organically in the water that's driving it up like leaves which you must get out otherwise it'll slow the slam down. I also don't think your TA number is inaccurate because you wouldn't have a PH of 7.2 with that high of TA.
 
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Right now with CYA of 80 your SLAM target is to maintain a chlorine level of 31.
Do you think you could exchange a little more water to get your CYA down a little more?
 
I recommend you check into buying some liquid chlorine. Try the pool section of the big box stores. Our Walmart has 10% 128oz jugs called Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid.
 
I got some liquid chlorine today. I have been checking chemicals and shocking the pool according to the levels to reach 31ppm. The pool has not changed color yet. When should I start to see some change in the water? Pool filter is running 24/7 for about 2 weeks now. Just want to be sure I’m supposed to keep the slam level up until I see water change color?
 

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Keep testing and raising your FC back to SLAM level every few hours. You should start to see a change after 36 hours or so, but it can take many days to a week to complete.
 
During the SLAM just do the FC test. As long as you do not drain off a bunch of water your CYA will stay the same. The pH test is invalid when FC is above 10 ppm. Do a CC test when the pool is crystal clear and you do an OCLT.
 
New question. We’ve decided to drain the pool and dilute to get the stabilizer down to a decent level then start over with the slam. As we were draining the pool we noticed aside for the green algae we also have mustard algae. Does the SLAM FC change to a higher number of the pool has mustard algae in it?
I plan to retest all chemicals in the morning to see if the CYA came down after draining. Hoping this will make the chlorine more effective?!?!
 
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