Green Murky Water - Help

[EquestrianNancy]

Our pool pump malfunctioned last year and over the winter stopped working. Summary is a green pool now. I purchased CYA and lots of liquid bleach (switching from regular 6% bleach to 12.5% bleach during the pandemic) and most recently using Calcium Hypochlorite shock from a different pool store. I had my CYA level up to 50 and required so much chlorine to reach the shock level that I've spent lots of time and money on chlorine additions. When I got relatively clear water, I tried to vacuum and sweep which stirred all the junk up and the pool water became cloudy. We use a skimmer sock and the sock would clog in a few minutes. I vacuumed to waste but dropped my water level too low in the process. The pool store recommended floc for vacuuming to make it easier to get all the muck out.

So now, in June, in SC, I still have green murky water. I fear that my attempts have not been followed through due to outside responsibilities and that I've thrown much $ down the drain on bleach treatments.

I just did a chemistry test. The pump was not running (not sure if that matters) when I took the water samples
FC = 0
pH = >8 (was too pink to match)
alkalinity = 70
CYA <30
Salt level is reading that we need to add 120 lbs of salt
Water temperature is 80 degrees at least
Calcium Hardness is 30 at the last test (I have calcium chloride ice melt to add once I get the rest of the pool set)

I need to regroup and review the slam method. Can anyone guide me back to clean water.

Thank you!

 

[Texas Splash]

Nancy, the problem in your situation is that you haven't been following the TFPC methods or the SLAM Process to kill and remove the algae. The chemical levels are not correct, and using floc or pool store advice is not the best way to go. You seem to have a K-2006 test kit, so that's the biggest part. So I'll give you this to work with:

- Add about 10 ppm worth of CYA to ensure the CYA is a good 30 and not below.
- Lower the pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid. Go in stages if you need to (i.e. 8.2 - 7.5, then 7.5 to 7.2) until you get it down to orange; re-test after about 20-30 minuets
- Once the pH is lowered, stick to liquid chlorine/regular bleach and increase the FC to 12 and keep it there until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
- At the same time, it is absolutely critical to remove as much junk from teh water as you can. Sweep, brush, scoop, and vacuum, but remove everything.
- Watch your filter pressure and backwash when the pressure increases by about 25%. Hopefully the floc you used did not go to the sand (vacuumed to WASTE). If you did get floc in the sand, it may need to be replaced later.

Don't worry about any other testing from this point forward other than the FC. Later in the SLAM Process, you can check the CC and CYA, but the FC is most important right now. Good luck!

 

[Texas Splash]

Nancy, there seems to be a problem with my recommendations posting. Stand by.

Got it!

 

[EquestrianNancy]

Hey Texas Splash,

Thank you for the reply!! You are absolutely correct, I was not following the methods properly. I was distracted and working on memory which is never good. Luckily, I did balk at the pool store recommendation for floc, I only purchased the Calcium Hypochlorite shock one time

"You seem to have a K-2006 test kit, so that's the biggest part." - are you saying that this is good? I've been updating it with the refills from TFTestKits.

1. I will add enough CYA to reach 30. I will not bump it all the way up this time!
2. I will add muriatic acid and lower the pH to 7.2 (It had been 7.6-7.8 earlier so I will make sure to lower it more this time)
3. I will go back to liquid chlorine and obtain the FC of 12 and maintain.
4. I will re-read all of the SLAM process and follow it completely with my FC at 12!
5. At the same time, I will sweep, brush, scoop and vacuum as much as possible.

Final question. If I am vacuuming lots of junk and the skimmer sock keeps getting clogged? Should I keep using socks in the skimmer basket and just change it often? Should I remove the sock from the skimmer basket or vacuum to waste?

Thank so much!!
Nancy

Nancy, the problem in your situation is that you haven't been following the TFPC methods or the SLAM Process to kill and remove the algae. The chemical levels are not correct, and using floc or pool store advice is not the best way to go. You seem to have a K-2006 test kit, so that's the biggest part. So I'll give you this to work with:

- Add about 10 ppm worth of CYA to ensure the CYA is a good 30 and not below.
- Lower the pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid. Go in stages if you need to (i.e. 8.2 - 7.5, then 7.5 to 7.2) until you get it down to orange; re-test after about 20-30 minuets
- Once the pH is lowered, stick to liquid chlorine/regular bleach and increase the FC to 12 and keep it there until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
- At the same time, it is absolutely critical to remove as much junk from teh water as you can. Sweep, brush, scoop, and vacuum, but remove everything.
- Watch your filter pressure and backwash when the pressure increases by about 25%. Hopefully the floc you used did not go to the sand (vacuumed to WASTE). If you did get floc in the sand, it may need to be replaced later.

Don't worry about any other testing from this point forward other than the FC. Later in the SLAM Process, you can check the CC and CYA, but the FC is most important right now. Good luck!

 

[Texas Splash]

Nancy, you appear to have a sand filter. If you have to connect the vacuum hose to the skimmer port, you probably have to remove the skimmer basket and/or anything else in the way. So anything you vacuum will go to the sand filter. Just watch the pressure and backwash when needed. Exception: If you think you might need to vacuum to WASTE (from pump straight to grass), to remove lots if junk that has settled, then it won't go to the sand in the filter. If you do pump to WASTE, watch the water level and chemical changes too. Hope that all makes sense.

 

[EquestrianNancy]

Yes, we have a sand filter and the vacuum hose connects to the top of the skimmer basket via a connection plate similar to the following:
Amazon.com: Hayward SP11063 Skim Vac In-Ground Pool Skimmer: Garden & Outdoor

I have vacuumed to the skimmer basket with a sock and it just junks up very quickly. That may have been one of my many mistakes.
I can also vacuum to waste or at least remove the sock and let the fines go to the sand filter and then backwash as needed. I may just need to experiment more as we go through the process to see what works.

I'll focus on CYA to 30 and pH to 7.2 with FC at 12 and worry about the remaining chemistry once we are all clear again. I can start that process today and spend the weekend reading the SLAM method again.

Thanks you again for your patient replies as I refocus on the proper methodology. Everything has made sense and I really appreciate your time!

Nancy

Nancy, you appear to have a sand filter. If you have to connect the vacuum hose to the skimmer port, you probably have to remove the skimmer basket and/or anything else in the way. So anything you vacuum will go to the sand filter. Just watch the pressure and backwash when needed. Exception: If you think you might need to vacuum to WASTE (from pump straight to grass), to remove lots if junk that has settled, then it won't go to the sand in the filter. If you do pump to WASTE, watch the water level and chemical changes too. Hope that all makes sense.

 

[EquestrianNancy]

Update on my pool. The pool is almost clear now and has been holding the higher chlorine levels during the day fairly well.

I do have a new question. We are leaving town and have a friend caring for the house and our animals. She is not a pool owner. I plan to do the overnight test tonight, but even if it passes, I will not be able monitor the other chemicals (we can add salt and turn on the salt water generator before we leave). Should I have her just add some chlorine every day? We've been adding less than a gallon daily and I have a good supply that she could add 0.5 to 1 gallon daily for 5 days. I just don't want to lose my progress while we are gone.

 

[Texas Splash]

It sounds as if you are still not technically completed with the SLAM Process, but don't want to lose too much progress while you are gone. If you are sure the SWG is operating properly, you certainly can use it, but remember it's not designed to maintain a high SLAM FC level (i.e. 12). Your friend can't be expected to test or guess to maintain the SLAM level either, but having your friend add that same amount of chlorine each day seems like a good pattern to go with until you get back.

 

[EquestrianNancy]

It sounds as if you are still not technically completed with the SLAM Process, but don't want to lose too much progress while you are gone. If you are sure the SWG is operating properly, you certainly can use it, but remember it's not designed to maintain a high SLAM FC level (i.e. 12). Your friend can't be expected to test or guess to maintain the SLAM level either, but having your friend add that same amount of chlorine each day seems like a good pattern to go with until you get back.

Thank you! I was hoping that would be a decent solution. I'll ask her to do a little bit in the morning and and again at night. I'll finish the slam when we return! We are so close....