Granite coping prep & build help!
- Thread starter Ryan226
- Start date
UPDATE: Had the final inspection today and the electrical passed as is! I think the electrician was trying to rip me off...so glad I investigated instead of just agreeing with him!
And thanks for the code help jamjam, felt good to be knowledgeable on the subject in case of issues.
And thanks for the code help jamjam, felt good to be knowledgeable on the subject in case of issues.
Okay, with the inspection complete, we've begun the project. Starting with the coping collar, couple pics of the area trenched out. I'm about 7" down from the top of the pool wall.
Plan is 2" of underlay, and 5" concrete collar. I do have a few questions I'd like to sort out before completing the pour.
1. Is processed gravel suitable for the underlayment for the concrete collar? Or should I use just a regular 3/4" gravel without the dust & "fines".
2. Planning the final height of the collar will depend on mortar thickness for the coping stones to be set in place. I'm planning to angle back the coping stones 1/8".
Is a mortar thickness of 1/4" ranging back to 1/8" thick enough? Or should I set the collar a little lower to make the mortar thicker? My plan was
to place the granite coping sections directly on top of the liner track, or should I leave a small gap there and then caulk it? Leaving the gap might actually be smart
in case I have any stone thickness variation I would be able to keep my stones in line with each other, maybe leave 1/8" gap to caulk which would also give me thicker mortar bed?
3. Sakrete has a 4000psi mix that is fiber reinforced, I'll probably use this product. (more of a comment I guess).
4. Does the collar need to be one solid piece all around? Would it be okay to make it three large sections? I imagine it will be two sections no matter what with the skimmers,
and I'll probably block off the skimmers and stay an inch away from them.
Thanks again for the help.
Ryan
Plan is 2" of underlay, and 5" concrete collar. I do have a few questions I'd like to sort out before completing the pour.
1. Is processed gravel suitable for the underlayment for the concrete collar? Or should I use just a regular 3/4" gravel without the dust & "fines".
2. Planning the final height of the collar will depend on mortar thickness for the coping stones to be set in place. I'm planning to angle back the coping stones 1/8".
Is a mortar thickness of 1/4" ranging back to 1/8" thick enough? Or should I set the collar a little lower to make the mortar thicker? My plan was
to place the granite coping sections directly on top of the liner track, or should I leave a small gap there and then caulk it? Leaving the gap might actually be smart
in case I have any stone thickness variation I would be able to keep my stones in line with each other, maybe leave 1/8" gap to caulk which would also give me thicker mortar bed?
3. Sakrete has a 4000psi mix that is fiber reinforced, I'll probably use this product. (more of a comment I guess).
4. Does the collar need to be one solid piece all around? Would it be okay to make it three large sections? I imagine it will be two sections no matter what with the skimmers,
and I'll probably block off the skimmers and stay an inch away from them.
Thanks again for the help.
Ryan
i used 3/4 clean angular gravel as a base - compacted. I then did a 4-5 inch thick collar around - my collar was the width i wanted the coping, however, if i were to do it again i would have had it an inch or half an inch narrower so that there is a lip on the back side. I used 5000psi non reinforced - but fiber mesh i think would be worth while.
Yeah, from what I've read here I'm definitely planning the collar to be about 3/4" narrower so that the coping stones overhang it a little bit.
I think the 4000 w/ fiber should be plenty good.
I think the 4000 w/ fiber should be plenty good.
So final question concerning the bonding wire. It is currently 18" from the water as required. I have several longer sections around that were meant to tie into say a diving board, ladders, etc.
We are not adding any other metal items around the pool at all. No railing/ladders, etc. Should I move these extra lengths and have them be inside the concrete collar? Or just leave them hanging out?
We are not adding any other metal items around the pool at all. No railing/ladders, etc. Should I move these extra lengths and have them be inside the concrete collar? Or just leave them hanging out?
Hey all,
Can anyone recommend a good adhesive choice for bonding natural stones to a polymer pool wall? I'll use mortar along the concrete collar, but I think adhesive would be better where the polymer wall is.
Thanks!
Can anyone recommend a good adhesive choice for bonding natural stones to a polymer pool wall? I'll use mortar along the concrete collar, but I think adhesive would be better where the polymer wall is.
Thanks!
PL, Loctite or Liquid Nails (etc), they all have an extra duty version and it will list both stone and plastic(s) for use.
I would like to raise this concern for your pondering, before you proceed. If a stone cracks/breaks and needs to be removed, you will have to take some wall with it to get the construction adhesive off. Mortar could be chipped or chiseled away without damaging the wall.
I had a similar concern with my fiberglass step coping. There would have been no way to remove the coping without destroying the step lip. So they are glued further back, suspending themselves like a diving board and mortar filled the gap at the water side.
For my concrete wall we used the construction adhesive because the wall is repairable if it chips removing a coping stone(s)
I would like to raise this concern for your pondering, before you proceed. If a stone cracks/breaks and needs to be removed, you will have to take some wall with it to get the construction adhesive off. Mortar could be chipped or chiseled away without damaging the wall.
I had a similar concern with my fiberglass step coping. There would have been no way to remove the coping without destroying the step lip. So they are glued further back, suspending themselves like a diving board and mortar filled the gap at the water side.
For my concrete wall we used the construction adhesive because the wall is repairable if it chips removing a coping stone(s)
Thanks for the reply on the adhesive, concerning using it....I'm not opposed to mortaring the polymer wall area (as well as the concrete collar portion), I just was under the impression the mortar wouldn't adhere well to the polymer wall edge? Using just mortar instead of adhesive/mortar sounds like an easier process, I just wasn't sure if it would work.
I can't speak to if the mortar will work or not with the polymer walls. All I know is that the construction adhesive won't come off. That can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on the situation.
Hahaha, true! I'll research a bit before making a final decision. Thank you for the help!I can't speak to if the mortar will work or not with the polymer walls. All I know is that the construction adhesive won't come off. That can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on the situation.