Got my numbers

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sigs

Gold Supporter
May 20, 2021
22
Killen, Alabama
Ok folks, got my TF-Pro and since the previous post was associated with calcium buildup (I called it salt build up), looking to get some insight on what my best approach is for getting the FC + CC up. Pool and spa together I was told was ~20K gallons.

ph= 7.8
FC= 0.5 (yes, one drop did it)
CC= 0.5 (again, one drop did it)
TC= 1.0 (FC + CC)
CH= 75
TA= 40
CYA= 0 (could not get the spot to disappear, did it 6 times and used almost a whole bottle of R-0013)
Salt level= 3400 (my screenlogic chlorinator indicator states 2650)

Poolmath calculated CSI= -0.770

My water seems to be really clear with no visible algae now. Not cloudy either. I was going to add another quart of muriatic acid, some Clorox Calcium Increaser along with some liquid chlorine or tablets. Although not sure if that is kosher with my setup.
Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated!!!

Thanks
Sig
 
No acid at the moment since your CSI is so low. First let's get that FC & CYA under control (algae). Increase the CYA to 30 for now using granular stabilizer and socking in the sock method, Squeeze often after about 20 minutes. At the same time, use liquid chlorine to increase your FC to about 5 ppm now. Before bed, test and increase the FC to about 6 ppm and then do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test starting this evening after dark. It would be wise to pass an OCLT and confirm there is no algae before doing too much more. Make sure the SWG is off as instructed for your OCLT.
 
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By the way, since you have a FG pool, unless you have waterline tile with grout, the CSI really doesn't apply to you. But still hold off on the pH for now. Let's focus on the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, then tomorrow we can address the pH, TA, and CH. Good job with your test kit! :goodjob:
 
Sorry, could not get my chlorine up fast enough to get the OCLT done. Slightly over chlorinated it trying to rush it. I know better. Backwashed to bottom of skimmer and will try again tonight once the liquid chlorine has a chance to circulate for 24 hours.
Todays numbers are as follow:

ph= 8.4 (slightly darker yellow than the 8.2 max)
FC= 12
CC= 2.5
TC= 14.5 (FC + CC)
CH= 75
TA= 40
CYA= 0 (again, could not get the spot to disappear)
Salt level= 2600 (my screenlogic salt indicator states 2800)

Poolmath calculated CSI= -0.06

GREAT, GREAT test kit!!! Takes about 10 minutes to do everything once you get the hang of it...

Thanks
Sig
 
Based on today's testing, you need to do teh following:
1 - Add stabilizer (CYA) via the sock-soaking method. You need a min CYA of at least 30. Use the PoolMath APP to help.
2 - PH way too high. Lower that as soon as you can with muriatic acid to about 7.5.
3 - Later today, check the TA again. If it's still that low (40 or less), add a little baking soda to get it to about 50-60 for now.

Later this evening or tomorrow we need to see the CC reading again (after your FC test). Be sure of the instructions because a CC of 2.5 is a bit alarming.

How clear is the water? Crystal to the deepest end, or cloudy at all?
 
Marty makes a great point. I commented on the number you listed, not the color you listed. That is indeed alarming and needs to be validated. If you learn that the pH is extremely low versus high, no acid is required. Please post back as soon as you can. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Sorry, got my colors mixed up. Ran each test 2 more times.

Slightly darker yellow verifies the Chlorine is high. Above the 10ppm...
Slightly darker red'ish verfies the pH is higher than the 8.2 scale. Bluelab pH pen indicates a pH of 8.6. Calibrated it to 7.0 3 times today so I tend to agree with it.

Since chlorine was too high, I drained about 500 gallons (if I backwash and almost empty the spa, that gets ~500 gallons). Going to let the autofill level it out and drain another 500 later today.
For CYA I am using this, sock in sock method but is taking a painstakingly long time to disperse (was in there all night and bet I spent a couple of hours total squeezing the darn thing and is still only half gone). If there is something that is better, please let me know!

All other number are the same as well.

Water is absolutely crystal clear! Dropping a 1 inch round pebble in the deepest part (6.5ft) and it is clearly visible.

Thanks for helping guys!!!
Sig
 
In the future, no need to drain or make any action to lower FC. It will lower on its own. Quickly if the sun is out.

Your pH test is invalid if your FC is above 10 ppm, so do not aggressively manage that until the FC is below 10 ppm.
 

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mknauss said:
In the future, no need to drain or make any action to lower FC. It will lower on its own. Quickly if the sun is out.

Your pH test is invalid if your FC is above 10 ppm, so do not aggressively manage that until the FC is below 10 ppm.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Partly cloudy today with some rain tomorrow. Will add some baking soda once the wife returns with it.
Is the stabilizer I am using ok or should I move to something else to get the CYA up? Maybe I need it lower to allow natural burn off due to the over chlorination...

Thanks again
Sig
 
sigs said:
CYA= 0 (could not get the spot to disappear, did it 6 times and used almost a whole bottle of R-0013)
Click to expand...
No need to throw away the sample, if you are unsure of the spot you can reuse the same sample as long as it was a 50/50 mix.
Also no need to retest that often, just when you add and probably once a month.
 
sigs said:
Thanks! Partly cloudy today with some rain tomorrow. Will add some baking soda once the wife returns with it.
Is the stabilizer I am using ok or should I move to something else to get the CYA up? Maybe I need it lower to allow natural burn off due to the over chlorination...

Thanks again
Sig
Click to expand...
That CYA is fine. Just keep squeezing the sock periodically. If you can suspend it in front of a pool return so there’s water shooting at it, that will also help it disperse faster.

A note about the chlorine - your FC was never too high. At 12, you were right at SLAM level for a CYA of 30. See the FC/CYA Levels, click the SLAM Level tab. Your chlorine level is safe for people and equipment up to the SLAM level for your CYA. So for the future - with a FC level of 12 and a CYA level of 0, all you really needed to do there was raise your CYA level to 30. Then, as others have said, just let the FC drift down on its own (assuming you weren’t in a SLAM in which case you’d want to maintain that higher level).

Typical guidance on chlorine levels don’t take into account the effect of CYA on chlorine strength, so throw out whatever you may have heard about safe chlorine levels and just follow the chart linked above.
 
Thanks, I had totally overlooked that! Got a note in my testkit to remember in the future. Printed off several of the tables found in this forum and is there for future reference!

Was over helping the neighbors that just moved in from California. His FC was 22!!! Told him to order the same testkit then jump on here and ask but won't have internet until next Wed. Drain and start again for him? His is vinyl.

Sig
 
sigs said:
Thanks, I had totally overlooked that! Got a note in my testkit to remember in the future. Printed off several of the tables found in this forum and is there for future reference!

Was over helping the neighbors that just moved in from California. His FC was 22!!! Told him to order the same testkit then jump on here and ask but won't have internet until next Wed. Drain and start again for him? His is vinyl.

Sig
Click to expand...
I KNOW I am not really one to be giving advice :rolleyes:
 
sigs said:
His FC was 22!!!
Click to expand...
When you go to the FC/CYA Levels, you can see that depending on the current CYA in a pool, an FC of 20 or more is still acceptable. FYI - As long as a pool's FC has not exceeded it's FC "SLAM "Level" based on the current CYA, you can swim.
 

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