Got my k-2006c today. Crud results...

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shaneymack

shaneymack

Well-known member
May 5, 2019
111
St. Lazare, Qc, Canada
I finally received my test kit today. I hope it is just me that is a total noob at this and screwed it all up because every number is really messed up.
This is a brand new pool and brand new water from a truck last week. 2 pool stores using k2006c Kits told me my water was perfect Friday and Sunday.
Here are my results

FC- 3.8
Cc- 0.2
Cya- maybe 20? Dot never seemed to disappear
Ta- 170
Ph- 8.0 or higher
Ch- 600

Help. Please
 
How does your water look?

The CH is really high. Could there possibly be a testing error on that one? Have you used cal hypo at all? Have you tested your fill water? I believe vinyl pools do ok with high CH, but I’ll summon @mknauss and @Richard320 for that.

Assuming the CH is something we can ignore for now, I would start by lowering your PH with some Muriatic acid. Target 7.6, and retest after an hour or so. That will help you from overshooting. Don’t worry about TA. That’ll come down over time as you adjust PH. Is your salt generator running? Your FC is not out of whack for a CYA of 20, but that is not within TFP guidelines. Although, you’ll want at least 60 ppm CYA if you’re going to follow TFP methods for a salt generator pool. I’d calculate the amount you need to go from 20-60 and then add 1/2 of that and retest. Add again once you’ve confirmed a good reading.
 
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Use 10ml of water for the chlorine test so that each drop is 0.5ppm ... precise enough and saves reagent.

Have you added CYA? Or used any dichlor (powder) or trichlor (tablets)?

Make sure you are holding the bottles vertical and add drops at a rate of about 1 per second.
 
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thetekgeek said:
How does your water look?

The CH is really high. Could there possibly be a testing error on that one? Have you used cal hypo at all? Have you tested your fill water? I believe vinyl pools do ok with high CH, but I’ll summon @mknauss and @Richard320 for that.

Assuming the CH is something we can ignore for now, I would start by lowering your PH with some Muriatic acid. Target 7.6, and retest after an hour or so. That will help you from overshooting. Don’t worry about TA. That’ll come down over time as you adjust PH. Is your salt generator running? Your FC is not out of whack for a CYA of 20, but that is not within TFP guidelines. Although, you’ll want at least 60 ppm CYA if you’re going to follow TFP methods for a salt generator pool. I’d calculate the amount you need to go from 20-60 and then add 1/2 of that and retest. Add again once you’ve confirmed a good reading.
Click to expand...
Ok I will get some acid tomorrow. Any idea how much I need ?
jblizzle said:
Use 10ml of water for the chlorine test so that each drop is 0.5ppm ... precise enough and saves reagent.

Have you added CYA? Or used any dichlor (powder) or trichlor (tablets)?

Make sure you are holding the bottles vertical and add drops at a rate of about 1 per second.
Click to expand...

Those are great tips, thank you. I have added a stabilizer that they gave me. I will attach a photo of it.

I will bring a water test back to the store tomorrow to see if I am way off or not. Not sure how the water can be this messed up after less than a week. Is it possible that the deck jets running have jacked up the TA and the PH so much ?
 

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Use pool math to calculate your dosing amounts. I will tell you that it never hurts to keep a few gallons of Muriatic acid on hand. So far this season, I’ve used 4 gallons. I buy them 4 at a time from my local home improvement box store. Just don’t store them around any metal. I store mine outside, the sun won’t bother it.

Also, I wouldn’t recommend taking a sample back to the pool store. It’ll simply just confuse things. You have the ability to conduct your own testing in a much more careful and accurate way than they will. If you are not confident in your testing, run another set and compare your own results.
 
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thetekgeek said:
Use pool math to calculate your dosing amounts. I will tell you that it never hurts to keep a few gallons of Muriatic acid on hand. So far this season, I’ve used 4 gallons. I buy them 4 at a time from my local home improvement box store. Just don’t store them around any metal. I store mine outside, the sun won’t bother it.

Also, I wouldn’t recommend taking a sample back to the pool store. It’ll simply just confuse things. You have the ability to conduct your own testing in a much more careful and accurate way than they will. If you are not confident in your testing, run another set and compare your own results.
Click to expand...
The reason I want to re check at store is to see if I'm off and also to show them how screwed up the water is so THEY FIX IT. it was part of the deal when I bought the pool that they would put the water and make sure it was balanced properly from the get go so I didn't get in this situation.
 
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shaneymack said:
Yes they are cylinders shaped bars of stabilizer that you put in the skimmer. It
Takes around 6-8 hours for 2 of them to dissolve in the skimmer.
Click to expand...

And... how much CYA is that going to add to your pool? Do you at least have a volume for each stick?

hmmm, I don't like that at all. You really do NOT want to overshoot CYA, but you also do need it actually IN the water for your SWG to work effectively.
 
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