Going to try to do it myself with a bit of back story.

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you mentioned the cost of a SWG

if you cancelled the "pool boy " what would that save you ?

How soon would the savings pay for a SWG ?
 
Figure the upfront cost of a SWG around $1500, or about $1000 if you are willing and able to DIY. But once it is in place the cost of chlorinating the pool can be lower than other options. My first T-15 cell lasted 7.5 years before replacement, at a cost of less than $450. That makes the ongoing cost of chlorine for my pool $450/7.5=60. $60 per year to supply chlorine for a 19000 pool in a hot sunny climate with the pool open year-round. Upfront cost high but when you average its better than other options.
 
Chief thanks for the info on the SWG, I really need to do more research on that type of system because I was told by a couple of folks who had them out here that they needed cell replacement at about 2 years. It seems that the SWG would be the way to go with my schedule though, lots to think about there.

Here is the pic of my system, I can zoom in on any part if need be but do you think you can tell me if the chlorinator is indeed plumbed properly. Also my system has an Eclipse 10 ozonator, any comments on it or how it might have affected chemistry of my water?IMG_1216.jpg

after reading a few posts on here it seems the ozonator is a waste of time and money.

After looking at it closer it seems that after the filter some water goes to the 3 scuppers while the rest is sent through the chlorinator, then past the Ozonator and then to the returns. I would say that looks correct.
 
According to the diagram from an earlier post, your chlorinator is in the correct spot.

I would recommend waiting a couple of months before you consider a SWG. I would just use liquid chlorine for now as I think that is the simplest way to learn the TFP method. If after a couple of months it is too inconvenient to manually add liquid chlorine every day, or every other day, then I could consider a SWG or an automated chlorine pump.

Once you get your test kit, please post a full set of test results. In the mean time, I would add 2ppm of liquid chlorine (bleach) per day. This would be 47oz of 8.25% bleach, or 33oz. of 12.5% bleach.
 
Got my test kit today, and already I think I've messed things up by working off the strips. I was showing a very low CYA on the test strips so I added some CYA earlier this week, I am guessing about a 1.5lbs of flakes. The pool store said my CYA was 55, and I just took readings with the Taylor kit of 60 and 70.

So without testing anything else yet am I pretty much going to need a partial water change to get the CYA down or so I work with what I have? I don't mind the water change, it's my fault and the cost isn't horrible here.

According to the pool math taking it from 60 to 40 would require a 33% water change.
 
I'm sure someone else will chime in here. But, I would think CYA of around 50 (maybe higher?) will be recommended for sunny, sunny Phoenix.

----edit----

Looking around, I do see posts that suggest 60 ppm CYA as a good starting point for Phoenix.

----edit---

Just realized you said, "without testing anything else." Let's get that pH and FC level checked. Those items will need to be urgently addressed if not in specs.
 
Full test results

FC 8
CC .5
CYA 60-70 from 2 tests (pool store said 55)
pH 8.0 (confirmed by using another test kit as well)
TA 110
CH 300

Pool water temp 75 F.
Again this water was fully changed out beginning of April this year.

As an added note, the pH was lower earlier this week, around 7.6 but I've been running the scuppers a lot and so the water might be getting too much aeration and increasing the pH?
 

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Ah, fresh water so the CH has not crept up too much yet.

I vote, let it ride, just maintain adequate FC for a CYA level of 70ppm. With the higher CYA level, you should actually end up having to add less FC since it is better protected from the sun, even though the FC ppm level is higher.
 
Ok question about the ozone system I have installed. I have read that it can actually work against FC and I'm currently trying to get up to FC of 9 and hold it there. Should I just turn off the system altogether and think of it as an expensive learning experience or could that cause other issues?

Also working on getting my pH to about 7.6 but so far it is hanging around 7.8 after several applications of MA according to pool math. Latest numbers:

FC 7
CC 0
CYA 70
pH 7.8
TA 100 or 110
CH 300
 
I don't have any knowledge on ozone systems, but if I were you I would just turn it off. Maybe in the future you can uninstall it and try to sell it. I think there is value in using ozone on an indoor pool.

Regarding pH, just keep adding MA in doses that adjust it down to 7.2. It will keep creeping back up until you get to your TA "sweet spot", usually between 70-90. Once your TA is in that range, then your pH adjustments will occur much less often.
 
Your CSI is fine. You can just leave the pH at 7.4 for now. It will probably continue to slowly drift up on its own.
 

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