After reading your post, I was curious, so I went and checked. No water at all coming out from the wand connections - just out of the holes where it’s supposed to.
My cooler has a lot of water that comes out of the middle shaft where the wands attach also. I wasn’t sure if the water is supposed to do that. I tried tightening that white plastic nut in the middle under the white plastic thing all the wands attach to but doesn’t help. Would like to hear from others if they have water coming out in the middle like that.
I still need to hook it up to my system. Im trying to learn how to wire the electrical to my omnilogic system. It's basically a 14/3 wire from the chiller. I can wire it directly to a breaker, but I want to be able to see and control it with the Omni app.
So after reading your reply I got a wrench and went out and took mine apart. Mine must be different than yours. Mine has no sort of seal in there to deter water from coming out the bottom of the wand hub. There is no prevision to add a seal either. Just a cheap design.
Maybe I looked at the wrong part. What do you mean by “bottom of the wand hub”? I was looking at the connection point for each wand, where they connect to the post in the middle. I tried taking a video from above, but the fan blades render it useless.
Got it. I thought you were referring to where the wands themselves attach. Regardless, I don’t have water coming out at the point you’re showing in your picture, either. I’m looking down through the screen with the fan running, so it’s kinda hard to see, but I’d be able to see it if it was anything like what’s in your picture. There’s certainly no water cascading over the edge the cap.
Jeff mine looks just like yours. Water pouring down through the middle. Here’s the thing though, at least in my opinion, if all the water just flowed through the wands then they would spin faster and spray water everywhere so you would need to decrease the water flow Into the cooler and one of the main issues I had when trying to get my cooler to cool was that not enough water was flowing in and out of the cooler to make any temperature drop occur. the water pouring down the middle is still being cooled by the fan but probably not as much as the water coming out of the wands. Don’t know if what I just wrote makes any sense…. Hard to write it down in words.
Yes, if the water is flowing exclusively through the wands, they would spin faster, but that’s why there’s a valve to control the flow. The reason for the wands, the holes in the wands, and the grid of baffles, is to break up the water so that the airflow causes evaporation. I would imagine if too much water is just pouring down that center pipe and into the basin, there wouldn’t be enough evaporation to cool it. But if your chiller is cooling the water, it must not be an issue.
The thing that got me investigating this is that when i was checking temps of the water in the wands then in the basin i had my hand next to the center pipe and could feel it was noticeably warmer water running down it. A quick check with my thermometer confirmed this. The majority of this "escaped" water runs down the pipe and is not cooled.
Jeff, so do you think there’s something wrong with our coolers since water poors down the middle?? Any suggestions or recommendations
I live in Katy and am on year 2 with a Glacier GCP25 for a 20k gallon pool. It’s outstanding. Here’s my depth sensor at 6 ft. You should be able to maintain an average of 82-83 even on the hottest days.
Very nice. Can you share some pics of the setup? I want to see how they plumb it all. I'm making room on my pad for the chiller now. I will try to have it installed by next week.
I'm new and trying to figure the DM's out. I'd like to see the pics and also would like your installers number as well. My Glacier just arrived on Monday and looking to install ASAP. Thanks
Assuming Montgomery, TX, here’s a list of installers from the Glacier web site. That’s how I found my installer.
glacierpoolcoolers.com
That is how I read it. My plan is to leave the actuator off and play with the valve settings manually until I achieve the right configuration, then set the actuator accordingly. Hopefully others will chime in as well.
You’re reading this correctly; you always want flow from the filter inlet through to the heater and back to the pool at all times, then only have the actuator either fully open or fully close the line out to the cooler. Depending on your plumbing, you may need to set the actuator to make a 180 degree rotation which will block flow to the heater for a second, but that’s not really a big deal.
I attached a pic of my plumbing. Note my pump is also running a water feature. They were able to automate it with valves, but I can’t run my water feature or spa and the chiller at the same time.
Here’s the plumbing. Note the extra stuff to run a water feature.
