Getting sick of putting chlorine in

The CYA right now and CH will not hurt things. Keep your CH on the low side of the range to prevent buildup on the plates. There is an article on SWG that running as close to -0.3 helps prevent plate deposits. I am presently running -0.56 because I just added 4 lbs of CYA (50 to 70 for 25K gallons) and it is quite acidic. The "A" stands for Acid!

I dump my salt in the shallow end of the pool and sweep it from side to side in the shallow end with my brush until dissolved. Shoot for the middle of the range with the salt addition. It takes a while to mix. You might consider "brushing your pool" to help it mix. Also, running the pool cleaner helps it mix.

How long did you wait to test it after each staged addition? An hour or just when it looks fully disssolved?
 
If I'm running my pumps at max RPM, pool cleaner and old cleaner pump for circulation, a couple of hours. The salt water is heavier than fresh water, so if you can adjust the system to pull more from the main drain instead of the skimmers, that helps as well. Check with the 1766 kit.
 
What red' just said..
most chem additions you can get accurate reading in 30 min or so.. because things like chlorine are about the same density as water, they mix quicker. Salt water is heavier and it will pool at the bottom. (the line between that heavier higher saline water and lower saline water is called the halocline)... If your water is cold still the effect is more pronounced. (this is how deep ocean currents are driven)... If you have a bottom drain, set your valves to pull from the bottom and it will mix from the top.. if not you have to do a lot of manual stirring by sweeping, running your bot or something.

Sorry for he science lesson ... but ya just canna change the laws of Physics ;)
 
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If you check the level and it seems low, don't add more salt, let it circulate some more and check again. If it is still low, then add more salt.
 
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Salinity is 3800ppm and control module is wired in (temporarily, it’s a cluster-f so will have to redo a bunch of stuff). Water flow LED is off (which I believe means it is properly triggered). Since I have a single speed pump, I set the controller on medium output, sound about right or should I aim for a lower setting initially and dial it up?

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I started low and dialed it up until I had the flow switch operating consistently. All pumps are different, but 1050 RPM is a little less than 1/3rd of the max speed (3450 RPM)
 
I started low and dialed it up until I had the flow switch operating consistently. All pumps are different, but 1050 RPM is a little less than 1/3rd of the max speed (3450 RPM)
I have a single speed pump, I meant the SWCG controller - I set it on medium chlorine generation.
 

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Do you know how much FC you lose in a day?
I have been having to add 80oz of bleach every 5 days, which would equate to 6ppm for my 11k gal. So about 1.2ppm per day at 50 CYA. Maybe a little higher if I account for getting so low that I might not be accurately testing 1ppm, so 1.5ppm to be safe.
 
Assuming that your 25K unit operates at 25/40 of my 40K unit. And correcting for your pool size (10K) vs mine (25K), your unit should produce about 11ppm FC in 24 hours at 100%.

So, you need 1.5 FC per day, and run the pump 11 hours.

% = 100% * (1.5FC /11FC ) * 24H/11H = 29.75% --> 30%
 
Use the "Effects of adding" in the Pool Math app. You can select your model SWG, etc and it will give you pretty accurate estimate of how much CL is produced for a given runtime. It makes much easier to give yourself a Starting point from which to gauge things.

Personally, I try to find that spot where I can set the SWG at 50% that will produce the chlorine I need for my runtime in average conditions. That way I have wiggle room to turn it up or down to fit the conditions.. say there is going to be a big party.. turn it up, Its cold and overcast, turn it down. I find I have mine at its highest setting (~70%) at the peak of the summer and the lowest setting (~30%) in the dead of winter. You will start by finding that spot by testing and trying different FC output settings to match.. It may take a season or two to get it really dialed in. Eventually you will get to a point where you will be able to tell by giving your pool a crooked eye and dipping your finger in the water.
 
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I did not know the app had the info on most SWG. That is fantastic. I guess it defaulted to 1.47, which is what my SWG (40K) does.
 
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Well I woke up this morning to my wife shaking me awake telling me the lights are flickering and half the power in the house is not working....in my brain addled state, I immediately think “Oh no! What could I have possibly done when I installed the SWCG that destroyed my whole breaker box???”

Turns out we have a break in one of the hot legs underground somewhere between the transformer and our house. Dang my terrible luck.

But one thing I noticed when installing yesterday that this issue compounded - I don’t see any electrical specs in the manual or on the controller. I had just assumed current draw was minimal and it being a 20A breaker for each 120V leg, I had plenty of headroom. Of course this wasn’t the issue we woke up to today, but it’s nagging at me that there isn’t a specs label like UL would require.
 
Reading the stains/spots posts and guides, it looks like they are organic. They are fading a little with my SWCG running (we had a power outage Monday so might have been low on FC). Almost had a moment 😂
 
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