Getting ready to close pool for first time after refinishing with new DiamondBrite

[pgershon]

Biggest question I have before I start is how to deal with significant upward pH drift (or should I not be concerned). During the season, I was adding almost 2 gallons of acid every week to bring pH to 7.6 or so (and I would let pH drift back up to 8.1-8.2). Between my chlorinator and the new plaster, I assumed this was normal. But I have had the heat off and water temperature in the low 60s and dropping now to the 50s for a month now (with the chlorinator off) and the pH is still drifting upward (from 7.6 to 8.3 over last 3 weeks). Assuming I close at pH 7.5 or so, I am pretty certain the pH will drift back up. Should I be concerned and add acid during the winter?

The pool is not covered. I am in the northeast and it will freeze for 6 weeks or so most winters. Other chemistry is pretty stable (calcium drifts downward from rain water but this should stabilize after I drain levels and turn off autofill).

Current chemistry:

FC: 3.5
pH 8.3 (I added acid today to bring the pH down but need to purchase more to get it to 7.5)
TA 60
CH 325
CYA 50
Temp 55

(I will note also that to my surprise, the natural drive in FC was only from 7 to 3.5 without me adding any chlorine - my pool gets little sun after September 30 and the water has been sub 63 degrees the entire last month)

Second question: In multiple prior years, the DiamondBrite finish on the top step has cracked over the winters and needed repair in the spring. When pool was refinished, contractor told me that this happens when the DiamondBrite dries out because top step not covered by water in winter. Is there a way to deal with this issue? Should I let the water sit at a higher level and prepare to pump the levels down if needed during the winter? Are there other ways to keep water on top step? Or is the contractor just making excuses for some other problem at my pool? The step was redone 4 times over last 10 year because of cracking.

 

[jimim]

Ok I’ll give you my situation. I have Diamond brite.

My ph was nuts first 2 season. First and second season when I closed I dropped it to 7.4 and when I opened my ph was way above 8.2. I had zero issues though. I put in beautec each winter to help with scale and the ph rise. Does it help I don’t know not I haven’t had an issue. My builder says it’s not worth it but I use it each winter When I close. This is my 4th season. First season my ph was finally stable. Bit I was totally in your shoes first 2 winters!

Ok step. My top step in low end and deep end are uncovered every winter. They have to be to keep water 6 inches away from bottom of tile to prevent popping. I haven’t had any cracking. Thankfully. Once temps are low enough my boulder always told me I shouldn’t have an issue. He said cracking and lifting of plaster is caused by water freezing on a flat surface and thawing and freezing again. Once we drain down we cover and I make sure those steps don’t get water on them thst could freeze. I stay low enough so there is enough water based on my area for freeze so I don’t have thst issue on second step. So I watch that step water level. I get like 1-2 inches of ice so I make sure I got 3 inches of ice on that second step.

Your enemy is water freezing on a fly surface. You can sea h for thst on here and you will find info about it.

Bit my top step is always uncovered with no water in winter with my cover on it and no issues. If I didn’t have a cover on the pool and the sun was hitting the wet step drying out and resetting I’m sure I would have an issue. I think the cover is your protection also.

 

[pgershon]

I spoke to pool company today, and they recommend I drain water only a bit so top step remains covered so I dont have issue with it drying out. Obvious disadvantage is I will need to pump down pool multiple times during winter to keep water level below tiles

 

[jimim]

That will put ur water level like right at bottom tile?

I just drained down. I’m 10 inches below my bottom tile to give me a buffer. Same thing I do every year. My top step in the deep end and low end are totally uncovered and will be. Zero issues so far.

There has to be something else going on. Is water pooling on that step. I know they is the slightest pitch on my top steps so no water ever pools as soon and I bring it down the steps are clear.

 

[Rich D]

I spoke to pool company today, and they recommend I drain water only a bit so top step remains covered so I dont have issue with it drying out. Obvious disadvantage is I will need to pump down pool multiple times during winter to keep water level below tiles

This is always a though question for the Northern pools. My original regular (no aggregate ) medium grey plaster had issues from the very start and I am convinced something went wrong with the install. The first winter I did not have any spalling issues. The pool company drained the water below my shelf Which has 12"of water on during the season and had me keep it at that very low level. The pool was not covered but they did put a frost blanket on the shelf. They did the same thing the following winter and I had spalling on the shelf. If I tried to leave water on the shelf it would only be approx 4" Which would surely freeze. I personally would risk the drying out over ice freezing on top. For the last 2 years I have been putting 3" rigid Styrofoam on top of the shelf and putting frost blankets on top of the insulation and leaving 4" of water on the shelf. This floats the Styrofoam an keeps the frost blankets dry . This keeps the water from freezing. For the last 2 year the water on the shelf never froze and I did not have any spalling.

 

[jimim]

I think the delamination and spelling happens when there is not frost protection. With my cover on I get that protection. I don’t get direct frost freezing and thawing on my step which is uncovered. I bet if I didn’t have a cover on I would have damage on my uncovered surfaces. I had a little little issue with very slight greying of my second step cause water froze on it one winter now I am very aware of water depth on that step and play the balance act of water level for ice and keeping water off tile. It’s deff tricky cause I’ve varies by the year but I have been ok after that first year and the spots that greyed evened out now that my plaster is 4-5 seasons new. Another member who is a builder also had me wet sand it very very lightly and thst helped and didn’t hurt anything.

It’s all about thaw and freeze cycles. Plaster just can’t handle it on a flat surface. U got to either keep that surface wet or completely free of thaw freeze.