I'd imagine you're going to want to get to 80 so if you feel comfortable, you can take it to that. Just remember you'll need to raise the min FC to compensate for the increased CYA.
Getting ready for O/B Bicarbonate Startup
- Thread starter JamieP
- Start date
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thanks for the reinforcement. It will be intertesting to see how quickly my CH rises.
My situation is very much on the extreme side, but I started at 125 and am now at 800. It's been one year almost to the day... No good
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Wow, that does sound bad. What was the CH of your fill water? Since mine started around 150 I wonder if I'm going to have similar issues. What do you do about it? I guess I'll have to start researching to be prepared...
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It's been awhile since I've posted with everything going on around here, but I wanted to post an update on my chemical situation. I finally mostly figured out how to program the EasyTouch so I connected the salt cell in anticipation of adding salt and getting that up and running. We now have all the salt and necessary CYA to bring the pool up to recommended levels, but this was right before all the rain came that's been hitting TX, so I've held off on adding anything to minimize any chemicals being wasted through overflow. In the mean time, we've kept the CYA at about 40 (I haven't checked it again since the rain mostly because it's been fairly cloudy and more rain is coming) and we've maintained an FC target of 5.
The forecast shows that the rain should be gone by Friday, so I'd like to start adding the CYA and salt then. Is there a recommended order to do it? I know not to add all the salt at once (703 lbs) so I will probably start with half to 3/4 of that. I need to add over 9 lbs of CYA and even if I can fit it all in one pair of girls' tights (doubtful) I know it will take awhile to dissolve. So, does anyone have any suggestions for my plan of attack?
Baby is due in a little less than 2 weeks, so it would be great to have all the chemicals and automation set up before he/she comes. Thanks for any help you can offer!
The forecast shows that the rain should be gone by Friday, so I'd like to start adding the CYA and salt then. Is there a recommended order to do it? I know not to add all the salt at once (703 lbs) so I will probably start with half to 3/4 of that. I need to add over 9 lbs of CYA and even if I can fit it all in one pair of girls' tights (doubtful) I know it will take awhile to dissolve. So, does anyone have any suggestions for my plan of attack?
Baby is due in a little less than 2 weeks, so it would be great to have all the chemicals and automation set up before he/she comes. Thanks for any help you can offer!
The CYA and salt can be added at the same time...there is no issue.
Dump the salt in and let the kids have at it. It makes for some fun times!
Glad everything has worked out for you thus far.
Dump the salt in and let the kids have at it. It makes for some fun times!
Glad everything has worked out for you thus far.
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thanks, Brian! It seems kind of intimidating to try to figure out the appropriate run times and pump speeds to make the SWG work properly, but hopefully once the salt and CYA are in the pool it won't seem so hard. At least I know how the programming works now that I've got the ScreenLogic working. I figure we can always still use bleach with the new CYA numbers until I can focus on setting up the SWG correctly.
Maybe start with 5 hours, 1250 RPM, and 50% on the cell. Test and adjust as needed.
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thank you! It's nice to have some ball park numbers to start with.
I think I've just run into a snag, though, which I've just emailed my electrician about. I just happened to come across this thread (Pentair IC40 Question -- possible problems on new system) and what the OP describes (cell being on all the time but showing low flow when the pump is off) is exactly what I have with my salt cell. So I'm thinking that the IC60's transformer was not wired correctly to the pump/filter relay in the EasyTouch8 so as only to turn on when the pump is running. Does that seem like what's going on or am I missing something? I noticed the problem as an alert on my ScreenLogic, but since I had the output set to 0 I didn't think it mattered and that it was normal to be this way.
I'm figuring I should get this rectified first before I start adding salt to the pool, or does it matter?
Yes, this needs to get fixed as this is not the way the cell should function. Ideally it should only receive power when the pump is running to create an additional margin of safety if the flow sensor was to malfunction.
If the electrician isn't able/willing to correct it let me know and I'll walk you through rewiring it.
If the electrician isn't able/willing to correct it let me know and I'll walk you through rewiring it.
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That's what I suspected. The pool electrical company has been very professional and responsive in the past (one of my best subs), so hopefully that will be true for this issue as well. I appreciate your generous offer, though. I will keep you posted and see what I hear back from them.
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Could someone please offer their opinion on this response to my email to the electrician?
The relevant part of my email:
"The instructions in the manual are clear that the cell should only be on when the pump is on, but mine is on all the time, although showing a flow error when the pump is off. From reading the installation manual, my understanding is that the AC power to the salt cell's transformer should be wired to pass through the Filter/Pump relay to prevent the IC60 from running when the pump is off. Considering the cell seems to be on all the time, I don't think this was done correctly."
His response:
"Actually, it was connected correctly. The salt cell cable plugs into the port on the side of the power center. That port has a cable that goes to the computer board and connects to the correct terminals. The only reason we had to replace that cable was because the installation crew had spliced when they had difficulty fitting the salt cell cable into the port fitting.
This sounds like either a programming issue, which is usually handled after start-up when the guy does your pool school and sets the system up for regular operation.
Next option is a problem with the computer board, which would be Pentair warranty. Or the brand new salt cell, while not leaking, could be bad."
Does this sound right? I'm doubtful and still think that the Intellichlor transformer was not wired to the filter pump delay correctly. Let me know if a picture would help, and I'll take one as soon as I can.
Thanks again for the help!
The relevant part of my email:
"The instructions in the manual are clear that the cell should only be on when the pump is on, but mine is on all the time, although showing a flow error when the pump is off. From reading the installation manual, my understanding is that the AC power to the salt cell's transformer should be wired to pass through the Filter/Pump relay to prevent the IC60 from running when the pump is off. Considering the cell seems to be on all the time, I don't think this was done correctly."
His response:
"Actually, it was connected correctly. The salt cell cable plugs into the port on the side of the power center. That port has a cable that goes to the computer board and connects to the correct terminals. The only reason we had to replace that cable was because the installation crew had spliced when they had difficulty fitting the salt cell cable into the port fitting.
This sounds like either a programming issue, which is usually handled after start-up when the guy does your pool school and sets the system up for regular operation.
Next option is a problem with the computer board, which would be Pentair warranty. Or the brand new salt cell, while not leaking, could be bad."
Does this sound right? I'm doubtful and still think that the Intellichlor transformer was not wired to the filter pump delay correctly. Let me know if a picture would help, and I'll take one as soon as I can.
Thanks again for the help!
- May 23, 2015
- 24,717
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Can you open up the front of the ET panel and post pictures? The wiring from the panel breakers to the relays and transformer should be obvious.
It sounds like whoever responded doesn't understand how the ET works, which is surprisingly common.
This is a simple fix that involves relocating a couple wires.
This is a simple fix that involves relocating a couple wires.
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thanks, guys. Here is a picture with the main cover of the panel removed. Let me know if I should take another with the top smaller cover removed too, or if you need something closer or clearer. I used my iPad because it's the easiest way to upload photos. Hopefully it sheds some light on things.
When I was out there I tried to trace where wires were coming from and going to, but then I gave up and thought I'd check to see if things were obvious here first. Thanks!
When I was out there I tried to trace where wires were coming from and going to, but then I gave up and thought I'd check to see if things were obvious here first. Thanks!
The transformer is hooked to a relay so it must be a programming issue. Are you using the data cable off the intelliflo and controlling all aspects of the pump through the EasyTouch?
With the pump off, what lights are on on the ET panel?
With the pump off, what lights are on on the ET panel?
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, the Intlliflo's cable is connected to th ET and all programming has been through the ScreenLogic on my desktop. Right now, I have the Intelliflo programmed for different speeds, each as a "Feature", then I've scheduled the feature I want (i.e., the particular speed of the pump) to come on at certain times. Maybe that's not the best way to do it, though?
I haven't really done any real "programming" of the salt cell since I didn't have salt in the pool yet. Once I plumbed the cell in the pipe (it was already connected to the ET though the com cable) it showed up on the ScreenLogic. All I did was put the output to 0 so it wouldn't try making chlorine. I was surprised to see it on, as I thought I'd have to do something on the ET to activate it. Right now, the SWG's lights are on, whether the pump is running or not. The ScreenLogic gives me a low salt reading for the Intellichlor all the time (not surprisingly), a low flow when the pump is off, and no alert when the pump is running at 1200 rpm.
The SWG should be powered off a relay that activates when the pump recurves a command to operate. There is no programming for the cell other than adjusting the output percentage.
With the pump off, one of the relays needs to be active in order for the SWG to be getting power. Are any of the lights on, F-8?
With the pump off, one of the relays needs to be active in order for the SWG to be getting power. Are any of the lights on, F-8?
- May 16, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thank you for helping me troubleshoot, Brian. This is probably a case of me figuring out how to program the ET just enough to get me into trouble!
I went out to investigate, and it turns out that the SWG is on the Filter/Pump relay. This gets activated by the ScreenLogic when I turn the "Pool" setting to "on", and I only do this to get up-to-date temperature readings on the pool. Because of how I've programmed the pump using Fearures (for good or bad), the Filter/Pump relay (or "Pool" setting in SL) doesn't control anything (except giving me accurate temperature readings.) I checked out at the panel, and under settings the Intellichlor is set to "activated" which is why it is showing up on the SL. If I deactivate it, it goes away and the lights on the SWG turn off.
I assume there must be a better way to do this so everything works together better...
(FYI, in case it helps... Other than that, I have my lights set up and programmed to come on at certain times, plus two actuators linked to two relays, which control the slide (not yet installed) and bubblers. I don't have these on a schedule though. I just turn them on and off via the SL when I want them on.)