Getting Chems Balanced

Litlat

Gold Supporter
May 31, 2019
59
Orange, CA
First question. I use a Taylor test kit and Taylor reagents. How critical are the expiration dates that are printed on each bottle for getting accurate test results?

Next situation. I am helping a buddy out with his pool. His pool deck is faux rock which also goes into the pool a little bit (typical rock pool). Lots of algae on the faux rock that is under water. I went over there with my test kit this afternoon. Here are the results:

He estimates it to be a 14,000 gallon pool. This includes the spa.
FC- 4.0
CC- 0
pH- off the charts. I had to add 12 drops to get it to 7.4
TA- 300
CH- 900
CYA- 110

Using the Taylor booklet to calculate how much chemicals to add I came up with this:
2 gallons of 10% chlorine which should get it to 11ppm (to compensate for the 110 CYA)
2 1/2 gallons of 14.50% muriatic acid to get the pH down to 7.4
Does this seem correct?

I told him to add the 2 gallons of chlorine very slowly all at once (starting tomorrow). I asked him to spread the acid out by only adding a half gallon per day (good or bad advice?). I also told him he needed to brush the pool everyday.

Input on any or all the above would be much appreciated. Thanks!

~Mike
 
The expiry dates are important. If the reagents are not too far out of date and the kit has been stored and handled will there should be ok but I would be getting a refill set of fresh reagents.
Taylor K-2006 Refill Set

With a CyA of 110ppm I would run a dilution test. But it looks like a partial drain and refill is in order to get that CyA down. Chlorinate with a SWG or liquid chlorine only.

The FC is very low with a CyA of 110.

There should be no algae in a properly managed pool. Sound like it needs a
SLAM Process
 
The expiry dates are important. If the reagents are not too far out of date and the kit has been stored and handled will there should be ok but I would be getting a refill set of fresh reagents.
Taylor K-2006 Refill Set

With a CyA of 110ppm I would run a dilution test. But it looks like a partial drain and refill is in order to get that CyA down. Chlorinate with a SWG or liquid chlorine only.

The FC is very low with a CyA of 110.

There should be no algae in a properly managed pool. Sound like it needs a
SLAM Process
Thanks for your reply. I laid out what I thought he should do. I just wanted to be sure what I told him was correct, particularly with the acid. I have never put in more than 28oz. per week in our pool. 2 1/2 gallons of acid is a lot in my book. Thanks again!
 
Mike,

Chlorine is King.
How did you even come up with a CYA of 110? 110 is a total shot in the dark.
Redo the CYA test, starting with #8 here:

The pH is not the issue. The CYA off 110, and the CH of 900 are of issue.
I would replace at least 50% of the pool water to reduce the CYA of 110 and CH of 900.
See "No Drain Water Exchange" here:
 
Mike,

Chlorine is King.
How did you even come up with a CYA of 110? 110 is a total shot in the dark.
Redo the CYA test, starting with #8 here:

The pH is not the issue. The CYA off 110, and the CH of 900 are of issue.
I would replace at least 50% of the pool water to reduce the CYA of 110 and CH of 900.
See "No Drain Water Exchange" here:
Re: CYA
I could not see the black dot at the bottom of the tube when the solution was poured up to the 100 mark (my back was to the sun. Testing device held at waist level. Did not stare at the bottom of the tube. Just quickly glanced. Repeated the test for a total of four times varying the level of water to confirm my original findings).

Years ago I read on this website to add 10 to your CYA reading to account for small inaccuracies within your testing phase. 100 + 10= 110 CYA.
 
If it’s over 90 it’s best to do the dilution test. 50/50 pool water to tap water, run the test as normal then double the result.

The CyA might be a lot higher than you think but it sounds like you might be at 100ppm which still high but manageable. Very high to too high for a slam.