Get rid of Permasalt?

sggray

Gold Supporter
Aug 8, 2021
14
Austin, Arkansas
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I’ve ordered the recommended test kits so thank you for that advice.

I’m just going to go ahead and ask this to save myself battling this PermaSalt system if replacing it is inevitable. I don’t want to spend the rest of the summer and then some trying to figure it out if there’s a better way. I don’t want my pool to require more maintenance time than I spend swimming in it. I travel some and can’t be here everyday to take care of it. It’s in bright sunlight all day every day. I’d rather spend a few thousand on it all at once now and get it right, than to spend it over time battling with algae, etc.

So give it to me straight guys- should I replace the PermaSalt system with something like a Circupool RJ45 PLUS and be done with it? Or are there better options?
 
Permasalt is a copper based system. It should never be used for a pool.

Disconnect and remove it now. Follow Recommended Levels.

I would wait until the spring to install a SWCG, but that is up to you. I would also suggest you get a SWCG rated for a 60K pool.
 
Permasalt is a copper based system. It should never be used for a pool.

Disconnect and remove it now. Follow Recommended Levels.

I would wait until the spring to install a SWCG, but that is up to you. I would also suggest you get a SWCG rated for a 60K pool.
Thanks for the prompt reply. That is the way I was leaning so I appreciate the confirmation. One more clarifying question- well two actually-

1) Is the SWCG’s only real value “So we can go”? Why would you wait until spring to install one?

2) I have to be gone for a week late August and won’t be here to take care of the pool. Assuming I wait until spring to install the SWCG, what recommendations do you have for treating it before I leave?

Thanks again. I really appreciate the help!
 
Why would you wait until spring to install one?
Your area cools off in late September/early October, right? So FC usage will fall. The SWCG does not generate at water temps below about 55F, so it would not be used from October to about April, right? So why burn warranty on it with it not operating? Also, prices are high right now. Will they fall some by spring? Might.

For a week vacation, you can raise the FC to SLAM level and put some trichlor tablets in a floating dispenser. If someone can come check on the pool midweek to clean the skimmers, they could add one or two gallons of liquid chlorine.
 
I have another question that may or may not be dumb. I’m trying to prepare for the receipt of my testing kit on Friday by ordering some chemicals that I think I may need, Cyanuric acid in particular, as it seems to be in short supply around here.

How would I get cyanuric acid in my pool in the first place with a PermaSalt system? If I assume that it is inadequate or maybe even non-existent, as I’m sure it is given that no matter what I do I can’t seem to keep enough chlorine in it to prevent algae, how much would I have to add to get it in a reasonable starting range for this 28,000 gallon pool that stays in the direct sun all day. I’ll be ordering at least that much so I’m ready to react when I get accurate test results.
 
Your pool has CYA in it. That is part of the ‘special’ ingredients used in Permasalt.
 
@mknauss - so now that I’ve turned off the PermaSalt system I’ve basically created a chlorine pool with salt until I add back a SWCG next spring correct?

The test kit showed no chlorine and CYA so low that the black dot never went away (it did turn gray though LOL). I added 162 ounces of 7% bleach and I’m in the process of adding 4 lbs of CYA. I will retest in the morning to see what I have at that point. I expect the CYA will still be low. Not sure about the chlorine because since it basically had none I couldn’t do the rest of the testing. Will try that again tomorrow too.

I was thinking that If I have enough chlorine when I test tonight around dark I will do the overnight chlorine loss test to see if I need to do a slam or just bring the levels up to recommended. Is that test accurate regardless of whether or not the CYA level is right?
 
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@mknauss I have added 9 pounds of cyanuric acid over the last two days and this morning the CYA tested at 40. FC was at 2.5 (I’ve been adding a little liquid bleach over the last 3-4 days to keep the algae at bay). I used the pool app this morning and added 120 ounces of 7% bleach as recommended trying to get the chlorine level up to 5. Will test again in about an hour and if chlorine is right will attack PH.

Question on removing PermaSalt system: Can I leave it attached and unplugged until spring when I replace it or do I need to get it off the pool completely? It has been unplugged for at least 3-4 days now so it’s not doing anything, am I okay with it there as long as it’s unplugged or will the return water running over the copper rods cause me problems?

Thanks again for all your help!

P.S. This test kit is great. I think I ordered the TF-Pro instead of TF-100, but it is very easy to use and understand.
 
I have added 9 pounds of cyanuric acid over the last two days and this morning the CYA tested at 40.
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The only issue with leaving the Permasalt in place is that the Copper is still in contact with the water. I am not sure if there is any way to remove that without removing the entire unit. It is best to get the Copper out of contact from the water.
 
Please fill out your signature. Pool volume, type, equipment, etc. Create Your Signature - Further Reading
The only issue with leaving the Permasalt in place is that the Copper is still in contact with the water. I am not sure if there is any way to remove that without removing the entire unit. It is best to get the Copper out of contact from the water.
@mknauss Sorry I thought I had filled out my signature. I’ll try again. I’ll also get the copper out of their somehow even if I have to make pennies out of it :)

pH is 7.2
TA is about 35-40 (3 drops of R0009 changed it to pink, the 4th turned it red. 5th drop didn’t really do anything so I am calling it 40)

Adjusting TA up to 70 then adjusting pH up to 7.6. Right after I update my signature. LOL
 
Just adjust the TA to 70 ppm. The pH will follow without any chemical additions.

Signature shows now. Thank you.
 
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@mknauss i wanted to thank you again for your help and let you know that using your recommendations I seem to be algae free (also copper free after removing the PermaSalt system last week).

My chemical levels are all tracking nicely except for FC which requires daily attention due to intense sunshine all day. I’m losing about 3ppm daily. CC is always .5 or less and CYA is right around 40. pHand alkalinity are right where they need to be.

My plan is to move CYA up to 60 and see if that lowers my daily FC loss. I’m also going to run the FC level up to at least 8ppm so I can survive the loss of 3ppm each day without going below 5ppm. Realizing of course that if FC loss is reduced by raising CYA I’ll have to adjust my daily chlorine dose to keep it where it needs to be.

Does that all make sense to you or am I missing something? Thanks again!
 
Does that all make sense to you or am I missing something? Thanks again!
You are not populating your Poolmath with your test results so it is a bit difficult to provide guidance. Be sure to save (Check Mark) after entering your data.
At this time of year I would not add any CYA. Your FC loss per day of 3ppm is very normal. I doubt you would reduce that at all by increasing your CYA level. Just target the 8 ppm FC each day when you add liquid chlorine.
 
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I bought it, added yesterday’s test results and today’s, then deleted some chem additions that weren’t tied to any readings and didn’t make sense. I’ll be going up to 8ppm FC tonight, logging, then checking again in the morning. Thanks
 
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