General pool build questions

It may be hindsight at this point, but your best bet may have been to add a lateral system feeding a sump well. 1 or 2 trenches dug just below subgrade of hopper, from the hopper leading to a sump well. Continually pumping the sump during the build would've kept you from having to deal with water.
 
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I use Christie's red hot as my supply house carries it. Katey blue rain r shine is good too. For above grade pad connects I use clear primer and clear heavy duty for neatness. I was always taught to dope threaded PVC and not glue. Biggest mistake is over tightening threaded connections. With paste the seal is bulletproof I've never had a threaded return or similar leak
 
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@jimmythegreek I am about ready to pour my concrete collar but I can’t figure out the best solution for pouring. I have good access from one short side of the pool with a truck, but not the others. Would you rake/shovel around the perimeter, wheelbarrow, or pay for a concrete pump? From the videos I have seen sometimes the mix looks very watery which I’m not sure if that is advised or not.
 
I use a skidateer bucket or the excavator bucket if I have to. Otherwise at times I have to pump. Here in NJ I pay a steady guy 600 cash for a collar pump its pricey here. Going rate is a grand. You could wheelbarrow if you have 2 or 3 and several helpers. Other thing is if they have a front discharge you could ask for a chute or rent a chute. Mine is 16' I made it by cutting an 18" smoothwall PVC in half
 
I use a skidateer bucket or the excavator bucket if I have to. Otherwise at times I have to pump. Here in NJ I pay a steady guy 600 cash for a collar pump its pricey here. Going rate is a grand. You could wheelbarrow if you have 2 or 3 and several helpers. Other thing is if they have a front discharge you could ask for a chute or rent a chute. Mine is 16' I made it by cutting an 18" smoothwall PVC in half
Thanks @jimmythegreek. My concrete place informed me they have a 50 ft conveyer that extends off the truck to place the concrete. Sounds promising to me. The issue I am working at the moment is filling/covering the gaps that we created when I set the panels up using patio pavers. Between that and where the clay likes to come off in chunks, I’m assuming these gaps need filled so the concrete doesn’t pour into the inside. I placed 2x4s but that didn’t cover completely. I stuffed some 57 where I could. Im thinking about mixing a batch of cement up and just filling this gap in on the front so it’s nice and tight. Thoughts?
 
Yes they must have good bearing. You block the front so the concrete can flow under the panels amd provide a solid base. Otherwise build up the bottom with crusher run and compact well if its an inch or so. You can even use rebar stakes in front of a board if they spike well i to good soil. Remember the vermiculite goes 2" up wall so doeant have to be clean and pretty
 
@jimmythegreek I’m now laying pipe and almost ready to backfill! I’ve raised my overdig up using 57 then put some paver base on top of that. I’m running my plumbing on this base and was planning to cover the pipes completely with the paver base. From there I was going to finish out the backfill with 57 up to where I need the grade for concrete deck. Is this a good plan? The paver base compaction as well as the fact it can intermix with the 57 stone has me wondering if I am asking for trouble here down there road with settling. Thanks in advance!
 

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@jimmythegreek I’m now laying pipe and almost ready to backfill! I’ve raised my overdig up using 57 then put some paver base on top of that. I’m running my plumbing on this base and was planning to cover the pipes completely with the paver base. From there I was going to finish out the backfill with 57 up to where I need the grade for concrete deck. Is this a good plan? The paver base compaction as well as the fact it can intermix with the 57 stone has me wondering if I am asking for trouble here down there road with settling. Thanks in advance!
 

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