We just installed a gas heater and was curious as what to expect as far as a bill. I know there are many factors that go into but can anyone give me an idea of what the their bill is like and the usage that accompanies that Bill.
Gas heater bill
- Thread starter gjconn
- Start date
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,813
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
gj,
What size heater and what's your gas rate. They usually charge per therm (100,000 Btu). My heater is pretty new and when I run it the cost matches the calculation very closely. It's supposed to be 83% efficient so I take the rated capacity divided by .83 then calculate the cost. Usually comes within $5 of my estimate that way. The amount of time we use it varies all over the map. You can also do some checks with your gas meter to verify the use in the very short term.
Hope this helps.
Chris
What size heater and what's your gas rate. They usually charge per therm (100,000 Btu). My heater is pretty new and when I run it the cost matches the calculation very closely. It's supposed to be 83% efficient so I take the rated capacity divided by .83 then calculate the cost. Usually comes within $5 of my estimate that way. The amount of time we use it varies all over the map. You can also do some checks with your gas meter to verify the use in the very short term.
Hope this helps.
Chris
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,975
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I have the exact same heater and estimate it costs $5.25/hour to run. That is based on my rate of $1.31/therm. Therm charge includes gas, distribution and all the other various charges they add to the bill.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,813
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Folks,
Looks like Pool Gate's calculation may be better than mine. Looking at a few sites it seems like the advertised capacity is the fired capacity not the heat input as I incorrectly assumed. The amount of heat input to the pool varies with efficiency. Minimum DOE standard is 83% but some are higher. Efficiency doesn't affect gas consumption though. It just affects how much heat goes into the water and how much goes up the stack. So your calculation would just be Cost/hr= 400,0000 btu/hr times $1.31 $/100,000 btu if your power cost is the same as Pool Gates.
I hope this helps.
Chris
Looks like Pool Gate's calculation may be better than mine. Looking at a few sites it seems like the advertised capacity is the fired capacity not the heat input as I incorrectly assumed. The amount of heat input to the pool varies with efficiency. Minimum DOE standard is 83% but some are higher. Efficiency doesn't affect gas consumption though. It just affects how much heat goes into the water and how much goes up the stack. So your calculation would just be Cost/hr= 400,0000 btu/hr times $1.31 $/100,000 btu if your power cost is the same as Pool Gates.
I hope this helps.
Chris
Last edited:
GJ, in Michigan with a 266 btu keeping water to 91 ish for am in a 24k gal pool, it takes me about 6 hrs of heating daily (overnight) at $.75 per CCF or about $1.50 an hour, $9/day or $270/ mo in summer. With my size of heater in my pool, I get about a degree an hour.
Yours should be less IF you use a cover, your night temp differentials are less, and if you don't mind letting it drop a few degrees from your high point overnight throughout the day - depending on your gas rate per CCF or therm
In fall/winter, I am running inside a dome for more - depending on month, up to about $400/mo, maybe $500 in the coldest parts of winter.
I do my heating in a dedicated run-up for morning physio using an automation schedule. For night swims, I might bump it up a few degrees, eg. Just run the heater while swimming. I've found this to be cheaper than when I used to let the heater just run to keep at a particular temp, aka Thermostatting.
I worked all this out in order to be able to run all year at high temps as economically as possible. The cover is a critical element, just so you know
Yours should be less IF you use a cover, your night temp differentials are less, and if you don't mind letting it drop a few degrees from your high point overnight throughout the day - depending on your gas rate per CCF or therm
In fall/winter, I am running inside a dome for more - depending on month, up to about $400/mo, maybe $500 in the coldest parts of winter.
I do my heating in a dedicated run-up for morning physio using an automation schedule. For night swims, I might bump it up a few degrees, eg. Just run the heater while swimming. I've found this to be cheaper than when I used to let the heater just run to keep at a particular temp, aka Thermostatting.
I worked all this out in order to be able to run all year at high temps as economically as possible. The cover is a critical element, just so you know
- Nov 29, 2015
- 640
- Pool Size
- 22000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I have the Jandy LX 400 as well
Our Schedule is set to run for 1.5 hours to 2 hours per day every day
Our bill is about 100 a month
Its possible that in the summer the heater can get the spa from 80 to 100 in less than an hour but the spa is BIG
over 12 feet long and 4 feet deep
So the cost per therm must be cheaper in Dallas
Since 45 hours per month x 5 per hour would be $200 a month and the most we spend is closer to $120
Our Schedule is set to run for 1.5 hours to 2 hours per day every day
Our bill is about 100 a month
Its possible that in the summer the heater can get the spa from 80 to 100 in less than an hour but the spa is BIG
over 12 feet long and 4 feet deep
So the cost per therm must be cheaper in Dallas
Since 45 hours per month x 5 per hour would be $200 a month and the most we spend is closer to $120
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