Fusion Soft 1400 - melted connectors

ladsjohn

Bronze Supporter
Mar 2, 2012
34
San Diego, CA
Pool system has been running fine.
Weekly check revealed no/low Cl levels.
No errors on the equipment (though I did briefly see a 'service' light during the week).

On inspection, my SWG electrodes have melted.
Am I looking at a grounding issue somewhere on the equipment?

I've shut everything off at the breaker for now.
At the very least, I'll need a new cell and the connector cable but before that I need to understand what caused this.
Any ideas?
 

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Probably had water leaking through the center pin around the edges.

Remove the cell assembly and then remove the two screws between the pins and remove the cover plate that slides over the pins.

The screws are in the two holes under the corrosion.

As salt water gets up in the connection, the connection generates chlorine gas on one polarity and hydrogen gas on the other polarity.

This causes corrosion and eventually complete failure.

Below the seal plate, there are O-rings on each pin that should seal the pins.

However, the seals can leak. The center pin seems to leak the most.
 
Thanks!
There certainly appears to be water trapped in the upper chamber. I can hear it sloshing in their now that I’ve removed the cell from the SWG unit. I removed the screws on top but the cap won’t budge due to the corrosion around the centre pin. Will try a little brute force next.

Best approach then would be to install a new cell, replace the cable with a new one and watch for any leaks going forward I suppose?
 
I think that the center pin had a leak. You need a new cell and cord.

Watch for leaks going forward.

You have some scale. The scale looks a little bit blue, which usually means copper in the water.

Periodically, check the cell for scale and clean if necessary.

Try to pop off the top to see what it shows inside.
 
Thanks James. Yes, had some Cu issues last year. Resolved with a partial drain/fill.
I'm going to reinstall the cell (disconnected) in order to run the pump until my replacement parts arrive. (already ordered).

Will dissemble it after that and report back here.
Thanks for the quick response!
 

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There doesn't appear to be a serial# stamped on the cell anywhere. According to the zodiac website; it should be on the 'warranty registration card' that came with the cell. Needless to say, I threw that out after I installed it (lesson learned). Is the serial# stamped anywhere that I'm missing?
 
Thanks James. The SWG has a serial number and that is already registered with Zodiac.
I've replaced the cell since the SWG was installed and that was what I was contacting them about.
I called their tech support, provided proof of purchase date etc via email and they have registered it in their system.
Just waiting on their contracted pool company to come out and inspect the cell to see if they'll honor a warranty claim.
I'll keep you posted here. Thanks again.

FYI - if you do replace your cell; the replacement should come with a warranty card that has the serial# printed on it.
Best to go to zodiac.com and register the new cell on install before throwing out the warranty card (as I did).
 
Just to loop back on this thread. I did file a warranty claim with Zodiac for the failed cell and they honored it. They sent out a local tech with the replacement cell and cable. While he was installing it, he noted that the power distribution board was 'fried'. I'm wondering if that was the cause of the initial problems, or a consequence of it.
Regardless, he is trying now to file a warranty claim on the power distribution board as well. The was installed over 8 years ago so I'm not very hopeful.
Attached is a picture of the board. As you can see, the component on the lower right of the board is frosted. I'm not sure what that is but as you can see on a good board - it is clear (Amazon.com: Zodiac R0467600 Printed Circuit Board Power Interface Replacement for Select Zodiac Jandy Pool and Spa Power Centers: Garden & Outdoor). That's the only indicator of an issue on the board that I can see so I'm guessing that's why he determined it to be 'fried'.

More updates once I have them and thanks for all the support.
 

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If you need a new board and it's not covered under warranty, you can replace the relay.

You can buy the relay on the internet and solder it yourself or find a local electronics repair shop to do it.

Also, check the 15 amp fuse to the right of the relay.
 
Just wanted to loop back and thank everyone for the support. (I did try to replace just the relay on the power distribution board but my (de)soldering skills have always let me down). I'm now back up and running with a new power board, new cell and everything looks good. In fact; the new board looks to have sorted out the gremlins in my control board (history of going offline, weird sequence of lights on startup when I applied power, sometimes randomly pumps running etc.).

Anyway - thanks again!
 
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