Free Chlorine Level at 0

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CYA is 40 ppm. SLAM level FC is 16 ppm. Maintain 16 ppm as often as possible.

You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.
 
Umarethani said:
Also do u guys know of any cheaper but reliable testing kit. I've been driving to leslie for each check up or using the cheap walmart brand
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Nope, sorry. You really have to bite the bullet and buy one of the good test kits. It's still honestly cheaper knowing yourself than adding stuff based on Pool store recommendations that may or may not be right.
Test Kits Compared

We've made you some recommendations based on your readings from Leslie's, but in all honesty, it could be bad advice if those numbers are wrong. There are countless stories from people on this forum who have taken the same water sample to multiple different pool stores and got some very different results. You want to trust them cause pool care is their entire job and you'd think they would be good at it, but they really just aren't. They care more about selling expensive, profitable products than keeping your pool clear. (A clear and clean pool makes no money for the pool store).
 
You keep the SLAM going until the pool clears up. It will eventually. Just remember to brush the walls and floor once a day during this process and also check areas where algae might be hiding like the skimmer throat, under ladders, and even around or behind a poo light. The minimum FC for CYA of 40 would be 3ppm. That is what you never want to go below when your pool is perfectly clean because you'll run the risk that something could start growing in the water. From there the water will get cloudy, and eventually green if left on its own.

As far as the testing kit, you could get by with just the standard Taylor K2006 (smaller reagent bottles), but if you are trying to clear a cloudy or green pool, you will probably run out of both the powder and drops for the chlorine test. You could add just the chlorine portion of test a la cart from Amazon and that might save you some money.

Amazon.com : Taylor Replacement Reagent FAS-DPD Refill Kit (Large) - Over 100 Tests : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : Taylor Replacement Reagent FAS-DPD Refill Kit (Large) - Over 100 Tests : Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

So, the K2006 plus the above add on will work as well and still be cheaper than the full blown K2006C.
 
When you order a good test kit, you will thank yourself later if you go ahead and order a SpeedStir also. I use the TF-100 test kit. At first I bought the Taylor K2006c and used it for two years without any problems, when it was time to replace the reagents I realized the TF-100 was just a better value and ordered that one. I just ordered my reagent refill kit for my TF-100 a few days ago. They also have a new TF-Pro that comes with the SpeedStir and has a better case.
 
I wouldn't touch that. It's probably very, very expensive anyway. You're better off with a good drop test kit like the ones we linked. Those electronic gizmos often have to be calibrated so they are more trouble than they are worth.

You want to be doing your own tests anyway. Don't even give the pool store a chance to sell you something based on "their" tests. That's a sure way to separate you from your money. :)
 

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Not likely. Any computerized test systems need to be calibrated often and correctly. They are never done often enough, and unless they check their readings against a standardized solution often, they would never even know if their machine is off.

When I have gone out to comparing pool store results, I found stores that used fancy computer systems were further from the truth than the 'mom and pop' stores.
 
Once you get used to doing the tests, it won't take very long at all. You will be testing pH and FC the most. The others you can test much less often. Once you get your CYA to where you want it, you won't be adding anything to the pool to increase it, so you can test that once a month and be fine. CH maybe twice a month. TA is something you might check 3 or 4 times a month if you find that your pH is climbing faster than you like. So, in effect, you'll only be testing pH and FC regularly. It might take you 5 minutes tops. Much better than running a sample to the pool store and I trust your reading 100% more than any pool store. ;)
 
Yo thank you guys so much for the confidence :)
Might ask anotha question while I'm at it lool, my apolgies.
I still have dirt it seems on the bottom of the pool ;the water is like crystal clear thanks to you guys.
I hate manually vacuuming it and my automatic robot cleaner isn't doing the best job clearing it up as its been there for days now.
Do you guys know of any easier way to clear it up. I just hate setting up the whole manual vacuum thing ; would rather just have some sort of vacuum that I connect and start vacuuming.
 
Get a robot. Sad part is they are in tight supply right now. Dolphin S200 and variants are well regarded here on the forum.
 
That might work ok. You just add your pool pole to it and it works without a hose. What do you hate about manual vacuuming? Is it filling the hose with water? Before I got a robot, I would manually vacuum. I'd snap the vacuum head onto my pool pole near the skimmer area on the deck. I'd unwind my vacuum hose, connect the swivel end to the top of the vacuum and then submerge the vacuum head in the deep end all the way to the bottom. I'd then force the vacuum hose down into the water until it was fully submerged and all the air bubbles were gone. Then put that end into the skimmer opening underwater and connect it to my skimmer line. Worked fine.
 
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