Free Chlorine issue

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Some variations of the kit call for two scoops. But one or two, if you have almost no Free Chlorine, it still won't turn pink.

Don't feel bad - I was an almost 30 yr guy fighting all the problems and pouring TONS of $$ into the pool store. Many, many hours each week dealing with the pool. Even though I knew about TFP prior, I didn't go full on with the program until a bit over 3 years ago. Many weeks now I just stare at the continuing perfect pool, wondering how to fill the time and how to spend the extra money - and stifling my regrets.
 
One other reminder to yank those steps out and give them a thorough cleaning inside and out. If water can go there algae can grow there. Yes- inside.

Also think about how you weigh them down if they require weights. We recommend using separate sealed containers for weights and not pouring sand directly into the steps. Something like sand or concrete filled bleach jugs or the like with tape before capping (because bleach caps are vented) is common and cheap.
 
Rob Plummer said:
when it tells you to add a scoop of powder if it turns brown or doesn't turn pink can you only do that once? in other words one more scoop
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The two different instructions say either 2 level scoops or one heaping scoop. They both add about the same amount of powder. If it doesn’t turn pink, there’s not much point in adding more.
 
ok everyone thank you again for the advice. Here is where I am at. I got the TF-pro test kit and I have been while waiting putting in 5ppm liquid chlorine in to the pool at night and running the filter 24/7. I have pulled out all of the trichlor tabs I had in the chlorinator and had already shut it off. The water is clear which happened a day after I drained 50% of the water and filled with fresh water. it has been clear for 3 days now.
here are my morning test results:
Temp - 77
FC - 1.5
CC - .5
PH - 7.3 (maybe 7.4)
TA - 110
CH - 75
CYA - 80

I already know I will need to start taking more water out of the pool to reduce CYA as that is probably binding up all of my FC. I thought instead of one big change (I have already paid for filling up the pool with about 7,000 gallons) that I would drain 12" which is about 3,600 gallons and refill and then wait a day and do that again. if my math is correct that would bring me to a CYA (I will test each time) to 40 (20 CYA theoretically each drain.

Thoughts?
 
Rob Plummer said:
ok everyone thank you again for the advice. Here is where I am at. I got the TF-pro test kit and I have been while waiting putting in 5ppm liquid chlorine in to the pool at night and running the filter 24/7. I have pulled out all of the trichlor tabs I had in the chlorinator and had already shut it off. The water is clear which happened a day after I drained 50% of the water and filled with fresh water. it has been clear for 3 days now.
here are my morning test results:
Temp - 77
FC - 1.5
CC - .5
PH - 7.3 (maybe 7.4)
TA - 110
CH - 75
CYA - 80

I already know I will need to start taking more water out of the pool to reduce CYA as that is probably binding up all of my FC. I thought instead of one big change (I have already paid for filling up the pool with about 7,000 gallons) that I would drain 12" which is about 3,600 gallons and refill and then wait a day and do that again. if my math is correct that would bring me to a CYA (I will test each time) to 40 (20 CYA theoretically each drain.

Thoughts?
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Does it rain up there enough to leave it at 80ppm or do you have to add water constantly in the summer? You can certainly drain more but if the water is clear and you’re confident it’s no 90+, then I’d be inclined to leave it. It’ll slowly drop a bit over the next few months. But you’ll need to run the chlorine higher to do that. FC of 1.5ppm is pretty low when you’ve been adding 5ppm every day and makes me wonder if you have some algae brewing. That would incline me the other way.
 
it does not, I have to add water during the summer. I had another questions. I have been running the filter 24/7 atm. I usually run it from 7am to 7pm. is this a good range to run the filter?

I will check the CYA again tomorrow but I filled to the 70 line and couldnt see the dot at a glance. so I added 10 and called it 80. I am getting ready per pool math to add 128 oz. of liquid chlorine to raise the FC to 9
 
Rob Plummer said:
it does not, I have to add water during the summer. I had another questions. I have been running the filter 24/7 atm. I usually run it from 7am to 7pm. is this a good range to run the filter?

I will check the CYA again tomorrow but I filled to the 70 line and couldnt see the dot at a glance. so I added 10 and called it 80. I am getting ready per pool math to add 128 oz. of liquid chlorine to raise the FC to 9
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So maybe the CYA is only 70. I run my system 24x7 all season. A variable speed pump lets you run and very slow speeds to still filter but electricity bill is much lower than running at full speed for a partial day.
 

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Bperry said:
So maybe the CYA is only 70. I run my system 24x7 all season. A variable speed pump lets you run and very slow speeds to still filter but electricity bill is much lower than running at full speed for a partial day.
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Sure my pump is just a single speed though. so my question would be that I understand that running 24/7 is optimal but with cost is it ok to run it 12 hours a day? I don't believe the pool store anymore so.....
 
Your pump, running 12 hours per day costs about $45/month, at $.15/KWh.
If you bought and installed a Calimar 1.5hp VSP, and ran it 24/7 at 1400, it would cost you about $10/month.
Payback would be the cost of the pump, about $500 / $35 per month of use or about 14 months, with a 5 month season, payback would be about 3 years.
 
PoolStored said:
Your pump, running 12 hours per day costs about $45/month, at $.15/KWh.
If you bought and installed a Calimar 1.5hp VSP, and ran it 24/7 at 1400, it would cost you about $10/month.
Payback would be the cost of the pump, about $500 / $35 per month of use or about 14 months, with a 5 month season, payback would be about 3 years.
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thank you for that information. worth considering.
 
Mdragger88 said:
One other reminder to yank those steps out and give them a thorough cleaning inside and out. If water can go there algae can grow there. Yes- inside.

Also think about how you weigh them down if they require weights. We recommend using separate sealed containers for weights and not pouring sand directly into the steps. Something like sand or concrete filled bleach jugs or the like with tape before capping (because bleach caps are vented) is common and cheap.
Click to expand...
I weigh the steps down with sealed PVC pipes full of sand. I have 2 strapped to the underside of the steps.
 
Pool is still clear. I put in 1 gallon of liquid shock per pool math yesterday. Here are the numbers today.
Fc 1.5
Cc 1.5
Ph 7.3
Cya 80 but could be 90
Ta 90
Ch 75

I am concerned as to what after adding a gallon of shock to bring fc to 9 is it completely depleted today? Or at least back down to 1.5 fc
 
We have suggested that you lower your CYA.
At high CYA you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize your water.

Your high chlorine loss and CC of 1.5, you need to SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process
It will be VERY difficult and Very expensive to SLAM with CYA of 90.

I would replace 30% of your water, then follow the SLAM process.

See no drain water exchange here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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