FlowVis - to add another check-valve or to replace Pentair?

dw886

Gold Supporter
Sep 19, 2016
126
ND
#1
So I want a FlowVis to know what my flow is - I've read great things about them. Over the course of the winter, I ordered a Jandy retrofit only to figure out later that the PB had used a Pentair check valve (and there's no Pentair retro-fit from FlowVis - the top of the Pentair is bigger, and has a square flapper - they started going down the path of engineering a retro and then aborted due to complications).

What I have won't work, so I have two options, both of which require me buying a new FlowVis check valve:
1.) cut out the current check valve, and try to somehow make a new one fit without re-working all of the plumbing between the heater and the SWG
2.) add a second check valve somewhere

If I go with #1, any suggestions on how I can do this without having to re-plumb everything?
If I go with #2, are there drawbacks to having two check valves (I'm assuming that the flapper has some negative effect on flow, so by having two, I'm multiplying the effect?

Any other suggestions?

Here's what my equipment looks like today:
WP_20170425_09_51_25_Pro.jpg
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
22,906
SouthWest Alabama
#2
One problem I see with replacing the existing check valve with another is the injection port prior to the check valve.

1) You could cut the plumbing right against the check valve cuff, remove the fitting and put a coupling over it. Then extend the loop between the check valve and swcg cell back almost to the wall and install the flow meter/check valve in that loop somewhere.

2) If you don't want to cut that injection fitting out, you could cut the plumbing right at the elbow after the check valve and extend the loop back to the wall and then put the flow meter just before the swcg cell. Then remove the flapper from the original check valve.
 

dw886

Gold Supporter
Sep 19, 2016
126
ND
#3
One problem I see with replacing the existing check valve with another is the injection port prior to the check valve.

1) You could cut the plumbing right against the check valve cuff, remove the fitting and put a coupling over it. Then extend the loop between the check valve and swcg cell back almost to the wall and install the flow meter/check valve in that loop somewhere.

2) If you don't want to cut that injection fitting out, you could cut the plumbing right at the elbow after the check valve and extend the loop back to the wall and then put the flow meter just before the swcg cell. Then remove the flapper from the original check valve.
The piece just before the check valve is a 3/8" hole that provides a spot for the water to return from the IntelliChem. It can be moved further down the line as long as it's after the heater.

Your idea of extending it back towards the wall may be the most practical. If I have to extend it, I'll just remove the Pentair valve - seems that leaving it in place would just add more turbulence?
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
22,906
SouthWest Alabama
#4
You're right about it adding some turbulence, but it wouldn't be enough to worry about. The only reason I thought about leaving it, was if you didn't want to mess with that injection fitting. You could even put a coupling over the existing hole and then redrill and thread the hole through the coupling.
 

dw886

Gold Supporter
Sep 19, 2016
126
ND
#5
I'm getting low-flow messages on my IC60 unless I run my VS at 1500 RPM. The PB put in that loop for the SWG, and I cut in the IC60 this spring, trying to give myself as much straight-line pipe as I could before the SWG.

The instructions say to have 12-18" to give better flow for the flow switch, so I'm wondering if extending the plumbing back towards the wall may actually help that as well. Right now it seems that I need 1490 - 1500 RPM to get the switch to trip - this is with a filter that's probably pretty dirty right now from construction dirt - so I need to clean that first and see where that puts me in terms of RPM for the flow switch, but extending the pipe may help me in a couple of ways.
 

jblizzle

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 19, 2010
41,197
Tucson, AZ
#6
As a note, there is no point in having a check valve in that location. If you used a tablet feeder, then sure it is needed, but not for a SWG.

If you really want the flowvis. You could just remove the flapper in your old check valve and add the new check valve in a different location like maybe before the heater