If anyone is looking for a decent price on these, i've been using this one for $18. Flow Switch Assembly w/15-Feet Cable Replacement For Hayward Chlorine Generator GLX-FLO-RP . My last one only lasted about a year though before the flapper started sticking closed (showing flow with pump off), hopefully this one will last longer but the price is right at any rate.
Flow Switch for Goldline SWG
- Thread starter whollins
- Start date
For a couple weeks now I have been troubleshooting why we are consistently getting a no chlorine. We have been to Hughes pools who has led us down the wrong path...buying numerous chemicals that has nothing to do with zero chlorine. So after a lot of research and reading on this web site...my "NO FLOW" actually means something. After troubleshooting the board message I check the flow switch. It has a metal flapper on it and a round black piece on the metal flapper. The "phone cable" is not cut and the arrows on the flow switch are pointed in the right direction. I have ordered this from Amazon (Amazon.com: Flow Switch Assembly w/15-Feet Cable Replacement For Hayward Chlorine Generator GLX-FLO-RP by Southeastern: Garden Outdoor) but it wont be here for 5 days due to the holiday (July 4th). Besides buying several gallons of bleach from Walmart is there something else I can for it to produce chlorine until I get the new flow switch? Our Hughes 38,000 in ground vinyl pool is crystal clear....chlorine is the only thing lacking.
BTW, when I take the flow switch out I am not sure how it actually works. I have to push the flapper together to install it. Once installed does it open up and stop water flow to the T15 Cell? Could I just cut the plastic probe and break off the metal flapper so water flows to the T-Cell constantly...feeding chlorine to the pool? The Aqua plus panel says "no flow" and have been in this house for 6months now. First house with a pool and I can't believe the amount of maintenance I am doing to maintain a clear pool. For a while, I suspect after the flow switch went bad, our pool was cloudy green. Lots of money spent to rectify that and now we know there has been no flow to the T-cell.
Jim
BTW, when I take the flow switch out I am not sure how it actually works. I have to push the flapper together to install it. Once installed does it open up and stop water flow to the T15 Cell? Could I just cut the plastic probe and break off the metal flapper so water flows to the T-Cell constantly...feeding chlorine to the pool? The Aqua plus panel says "no flow" and have been in this house for 6months now. First house with a pool and I can't believe the amount of maintenance I am doing to maintain a clear pool. For a while, I suspect after the flow switch went bad, our pool was cloudy green. Lots of money spent to rectify that and now we know there has been no flow to the T-cell.
Jim
VinceL
LifeTime Supporter
I had to replace my flow switch at the beginning of the summer due to cracked pipes from a frozen check valve. I decided to take a chance and went with a generic flow switch from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L3QTM6S). I cemented all the pipe, plugged the cable into my Pro Logic system, and it has worked great since I installed it in April. The best part is that it was only $34.
I have to wonder if all of these flow switches aren't made in the same factory? :?:
I have to wonder if all of these flow switches aren't made in the same factory? :?:
Meadow
0
To test the AQR flow switch, you need a 2 or 4 wire RJ11 tel cord as shown in the below pic. Splice the 2 wires in the middle, twist them together and insulate with electrical tape. Disconnect the flow switch from the board and plug the tel patch cord in place. Run the pump, wait for at least 20-25 secs and observe the "no flow" indicator light. If the "no flow" indicator turned off, then you just verified you have a faulty flow switch. But if it remains lit, then you have a bad board.
It is at your own discretion to temporarily bypass the faulty flow switch using the same tel patch cord while waiting for the replacement. Just make sure that your pump and the swcg are on the same timer.
The flow switch arrived from Amazon today. Looks just like the original....metal flapper and dark gray 15' phone cable. Worked like a charm. Fast shipment, easy to replace, and it saved me alot of money over the original. My control panel now reads "Flow Switch FLOW". T-Cell is now producing chlorine to help protect the pool once again. I will start another thread with DIY Flow Switch Replacement.
Jim
Jim
I thought my flow switch went bad somorsersd a new one. Then it still didn’t work. Looked at the unit and saw the one inside the generator was all rusted and missing one of
The copper legs in the middle. Anyway around this? I thought about pulling the board and see if I could solder a new one in place????
The copper legs in the middle. Anyway around this? I thought about pulling the board and see if I could solder a new one in place????