Hello! We're in the bidding process, and interviewed a PB last night. We plan to put travertine pavers around our pool for decking, and had thought that we would lay concrete down first and then put the pavers on top. The PB recommended that we do a floating deck, with no concrete underneath. His reasoning was that the concrete could shift/crack over time due to ground movement. We're thinking that it would be more solid if we put concrete underneath, but wanted to see if there are any opinions out there? Maybe a floating deck is common and is just something we hadn't considered?
Floating Travertine Pavers Deck
- Thread starter aezalpha
- Start date
Hi.
I just layed down a travertine tumbled pavers 1 1/4 thick pool deck in Florida.
My PB graded the area lowering the deck about 4" below the coping line.
A method they use is to waterjet around the pool specifically where all the plumbing lines were installed. Simply this process is sticking a hose in a long pvc buried in the clay/sand we have as ground here in Tampa Bay. This process compacts the deck, kinda like the sand near the water on the beach...it literally will drop your deck a few inches where the trenches will be dug up.
Based on our weather the installation process is to lay 3 to 4" of crushed concrete, it is then tampered and smoothed out.
90% of paving contractors here in florida will at this point lay the pavers right on top, 10% will add a little portland cement into the crushed concrete base.
All perimeter joints are bonded with portland cement. Afterwards they basically throw sand all over the joints and brush them in...
On my covered lanai, they simply put down sand and layed them right on top...
I know it sounds like do they move easily? Not at all---some may make noise, this is a result of the leveling on that stone.. but its solid
I would not lay concrete down-what is the additional cost for this?
It will crack it always does...you'll have to replace the stone and pavers around.
the method above if a stone gets dirty/cracks etc...you can take a scraper loosen up the joints and pop them out, not that easy though.
This of course are the inside perimeter stones...
We are at the point whether or not to seal them, leaning on yes to bring out the color and add a sharkskin mix to prevent my little ones from wiping out. It's slippery when wet, especially barefoot...
Hope that helps, any questions lemme know...ohh and make sure you account for at least 10% extra on your sq footage...
- - - Updated - - -
Oops, one more thing...
My pool builder was charging between 10-12 a foot with materials...
I became the sub on this cause I layed about 1600 sq ft.
They did not have any issues, only that they will do the pool coping which is commonplace.
So by doing the deck myself, I bought good quality select grade travertine pavers and hired my own contractor...
Came out great and saved thousands of dollars....
I'll let you know where to send me a check for this tip
I just layed down a travertine tumbled pavers 1 1/4 thick pool deck in Florida.
My PB graded the area lowering the deck about 4" below the coping line.
A method they use is to waterjet around the pool specifically where all the plumbing lines were installed. Simply this process is sticking a hose in a long pvc buried in the clay/sand we have as ground here in Tampa Bay. This process compacts the deck, kinda like the sand near the water on the beach...it literally will drop your deck a few inches where the trenches will be dug up.
Based on our weather the installation process is to lay 3 to 4" of crushed concrete, it is then tampered and smoothed out.
90% of paving contractors here in florida will at this point lay the pavers right on top, 10% will add a little portland cement into the crushed concrete base.
All perimeter joints are bonded with portland cement. Afterwards they basically throw sand all over the joints and brush them in...
On my covered lanai, they simply put down sand and layed them right on top...
I know it sounds like do they move easily? Not at all---some may make noise, this is a result of the leveling on that stone.. but its solid
I would not lay concrete down-what is the additional cost for this?
It will crack it always does...you'll have to replace the stone and pavers around.
the method above if a stone gets dirty/cracks etc...you can take a scraper loosen up the joints and pop them out, not that easy though.
This of course are the inside perimeter stones...
We are at the point whether or not to seal them, leaning on yes to bring out the color and add a sharkskin mix to prevent my little ones from wiping out. It's slippery when wet, especially barefoot...
Hope that helps, any questions lemme know...ohh and make sure you account for at least 10% extra on your sq footage...
- - - Updated - - -
Oops, one more thing...
My pool builder was charging between 10-12 a foot with materials...
I became the sub on this cause I layed about 1600 sq ft.
They did not have any issues, only that they will do the pool coping which is commonplace.
So by doing the deck myself, I bought good quality select grade travertine pavers and hired my own contractor...
Came out great and saved thousands of dollars....
I'll let you know where to send me a check for this tip
- Sep 8, 2013
- 606
We did over 3,000 sq. ft. They used a caliche stone base, then vibrated and compacted it. Next was a mix of sand and Portland cement, and once again compacted. Next came the travertine pavers and then applied polymeric sand in the joints. We were completely happy the way it turned out. It was $10 a sq. ft.
- Sep 8, 2013
- 606
We did not seal ours. I don't think we will in the future either. Travertine has been used for thousands of years and I like the natural look.
Sealing does not mean changing the look. It means making it last longer.
Get a good sealant, especially if you have salt water pool.
- Sep 8, 2013
- 606
Do you think they used sealant on the coliseum in Rome or all the other centuries old buildings? It has nothing to do with lasting longer!
The sealer does enhance the natural color of the stone. Basically the way it was described to me was to simply hose it down and that wet look is to be expected if you go with the glossier product water based sealer.
I actually like the natural look at times although it's a bit chalky...
May consider the enhanced color look if I decide to seal soon
Thank you so much for your responses! The PB said that to do the concrete base, it would be a lot more expensive. We're still awaiting his estimate on the whole project, so I'll report back as far as the pricing per sq. ft. for the decking. We aren't opposed to doing it ourselves either. We plan to do a saltwater pool, so the PB recommended that we seal it a couple of times a year.
What are you using for coping? Floating is the right way to do it. Another method is to separate the concrete from the bond beam and use a bunch of expansion joints. I like the look of the floating better. We are currently doing a flagstone deck with the flagstone mortared to the bond beam and the deck set on crushed stone and sand. The joints on the bond beam with be mortar filled, and the deck joints will be filled with thyme.
We're planning on using travertine for coping as well. I think the floating method would be fine as long as the edges are attached in a permanent way, so the interior pieces stay together properly.
Our travertine deck is floating, they mortared in the coping and used paver edging on the outside edge to hold everything in place.