First year after winter questions

[otherguy]

1. Now that the pool is completely thawed there is quite of bit of algae(?) in it. It's kind of a red/brown color and not easily gotten with the pool vacuum as the jets on the vacuum just disturb it and blow it around, it does get some just not much of it. Same thing when trying to use a skimmer net and doing it by hand.
   1. Will we just need to drain and clean or will hooking the pump back up and getting chemicals in it fix it?
2. Is the TF-100 test kit still the one that everyone recommends? Was looking at these options for the kit.
   1. 

Not gonna lie, I have done lots of reading but it all confuses me but that could be because I don't have a proper test kit to actually ask intelligent questions, but I wanted to see how bad it was, drain and start over or fixable.
Thank you.

Intex 18x52 AGP

 

[PoolStored]

1. Hard to tell you what to do with your description. Can you post pictures?
2) Yes to the smart stir. pH meter is not necessary. I have one, but it is easier to just test pH with chems. No to borates unless you intent to add them. This is not standard practice. If you are going to use borates (read up here...just do a search), I would build your own test. Search for borate drop test. Have to roll your own, but super accurate. For now, I would not worry about borates testing. Yes to the XL. Yes to the standards. Really helped me understand what 50 CYA looks like.

 

[kimkats]

How much will new water cost you? If it not that much then that would be the way to go..............just not 100% of the water so the walls have support and the liner does not shift. Have chlorine on hand to treat the water that is left as you are adding new water.

Getting the test kit will be a game changer for your pool care life. It will make is oh so much easier! Add in the Pool Math and you will be good to go.

Kim

 

[otherguy]

Forgot this one.
Question #3:
Does sand have to be replaced each year, or is just maintain the level of the sand okay, since I did backwash and rinse regularly.

1. Hard to tell you what to do with your description. Can you post pictures?
2) Yes to the smart stir. pH meter is not necessary. I have one, but it is easier to just test pH with chems. No to borates unless you intent to add them. This is not standard practice. If you are going to use borates (read up here...just do a search), I would build your own test. Search for borate drop test. Have to roll your own, but super accurate. For now, I would not worry about borates testing. Yes to the XL. Yes to the standards. Really helped me understand what 50 CYA looks like.

Here is a pic after I ran the skimmer net across the bottom, just pushes all this to the side. Vacuum does get some, just stirs most up, was hoping the hooking up the pump and running it would get a lot of it, but didn't know the best course of action here.

How much will new water cost you? If it not that much then that would be the way to go..............just not 100% of the water so the walls have support and the liner does not shift. Have chlorine on hand to treat the water that is left as you are adding new water.

Getting the test kit will be a game changer for your pool care life. It will make is oh so much easier! Add in the Pool Math and you will be good to go.

Kim

I hope the kit makes everything come together and everything will make sense then.

 

[PoolStored]

Hard to tell from the picture. If the vacuum doesn't get it and basically pushes it around, it is by inference fine particles.

First, I would try brushing it to one area of the pool. Take is slow and let it settle back down. Once it is in one small area, it will be easier to Vacuum to waste.

If that doesn't work, backwash your filter, then rinse (if it has that feature), then turn on your pump/filter. Note the pressure. Swirl stuff around and run the pump until pressure rises 25%, then backwash and rinse. Repeat. With all that stuff in there the pressure may rise quickly. It may also take some time to filter all that stuff.

Get pool math. PoolMath Figure out how much chlorine to add to put in 5PPM. Add that much chorine daily until you get your kit.

There are a few situations where it makes sense to change the sand. They are rare. Sand lasts forever.

 

[kimkats]

Here is how you deep clean a sand filter:

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

The only time you would NEED to replace the sand is if "gunk" is added to the pool such as floc. That will clump up your sand bad.

Do you have a manual vacuum? Are your pipes set up where you can drain water from your pool without running the pump? If so then you can hookup the vacuum and open up that pipe part of the way and allow gravity to suck the gunk up and out of the pool. I would have a hose in the pool adding water at the same time so you keep going as long as possible.

Kim

 

[otherguy]

Here is how you deep clean a sand filter:

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

The only time you would NEED to replace the sand is if "gunk" is added to the pool such as floc. That will clump up your sand bad.
Do you have a manual vacuum? Are your pipes set up where you can drain water from your pool without running the pump? If so then you can hookup the vacuum and open up that pipe part of the way and allow gravity to suck the gunk up and out of the pool. I would have a hose in the pool adding water at the same time so you keep going as long as possible.

Kim

I have a Aiper cordless automatic pool cleaner. I also have one of those things that attaches to the end of a garden hose with the little net on it to grab stuff, but you have to get in the pool to really use it. The pool cleaner jets push this stuff more than suck it up.
I don't have pipes to drain, just two caps on each side of the pool that I could unscrew to let the water out.
I did order the test kit, so can't wait for that to get here.

I am surprised in the video that the center pipe isn't covered, I remember the instructions talking about not letting sand get down there, I know most would settle since it's heavier but I would think some would make it's way down.

Hard to tell from the picture. If the vacuum doesn't get it and basically pushes it around, it is by inference fine particles.
First, I would try brushing it to one area of the pool. Take is slow and let it settle back down. Once it is in one small area, it will be easier to Vacuum to waste.
If that doesn't work, backwash your filter, then rinse (if it has that feature), then turn on your pump/filter. Note the pressure. Swirl stuff around and run the pump until pressure rises 25%, then backwash and rinse. Repeat. With all that stuff in there the pressure may rise quickly. It may also take some time to filter all that stuff.
Get pool math. PoolMath Figure out how much chlorine to add to put in 5PPM. Add that much chorine daily until you get your kit.
There are a few situations where it makes sense to change the sand. They are rare. Sand lasts forever.

Good to know on the sand. I may try to run the auto pool cleaner first to get the pool good and stirred up, then run the pump and watch the pressure like you say and just keep backwashing and rinsing. I think the weather is going to stay warm enough that I don't need to worry about about water in the pump hoses freezing.

 

[PoolStored]

Throw that cordless in, it will pick up a bunch.

Don't forget to start adding chlorine now! don't use clorax bleach, or anything with Blue/Green, splashless, softener, anything in the title, or use Liquid Chlorine. Getting your FC up now will save you more later.

 

[otherguy]

Throw that cordless in, it will pick up a bunch.

Don't forget to start adding chlorine now! don't use clorax bleach, or anything with Blue/Green, splashless, softener, anything in the title, or use Liquid Chlorine. Getting your FC up now will save you more later.

I have had it in four times now, but mostly stirs up stuff. I mean don't get me wrong, it does pick up stuff, but most disturbs most floating off the bottom, but then just settles again the next day. Hasn't helped enough to make a noticeable difference yet.

I need the pump running to add the Liquid Chlorine, correct?

 

[PoolStored]

I need the pump running to add the Liquid Chlorine, correct?

Yep! Cordless will mix too. Poor it in really slowly...like it should take you about 2 minutes per gallon. Do it right over the return. You should also brush the bottom where you poured to get any that sank to the bottom to mix and not fade liner. This should help (mixing, cordless) to get more stuff off the bottom into the filter.

 

[Strawberryshortcake]

About two years ago, I had a mudslide into my pool. Actually, two a few months apart - the first time it happened, I decided to let my filter handle it, and eventually, it did. It took about a month to get all the fine dirt out.

I kept the vacuum running almost 100% of the time - it wasn't picking up much but it WAS keeping stuff stirred up so my filter could even get it. I'd take my net and just agitate the bottom too.

I think another absolutely necessary step was adding something to my sand filter that allowed it to catch finer particles. In my case, I have a dog so I didn't want to use DE. I put jack's magic filter fiber stuff, which is a non-toxic alternative. Also, I ran the pump at about 1300 - I don't know if your pump can change speeds but, it seems to filter this sort of mess better at lower speeds.

 

[Newdude]

In my case, I have a dog so I didn't want to use DE. I put jack's magic filter fiber stuff, which is a non-toxic alternative

DE is only harmful in its airborn state. The extra small particles gunk up your (or the doggos) lungs. As long as nobody huffs the open bag, or kicks up a disposal pile out back, its a natural, non toxic substance.

As a matter of fact, the natural loving folks use it to kill and repel ticks, fleas and parasites on their dogs. And the natural loving green thumb folks use it in their gardens because its not a toxic chemical.

 

[Strawberryshortcake]

DE is only harmful in its airborn state. The extra small particles gunk up your (or the doggos) lungs. As long as nobody huffs the open bag, or kicks up a disposal pile out back, its a natural, non toxic substance.

As a matter of fact, the natural loving folks use it to kill and repel ticks, fleas and parasites on their dogs. And the natural loving green thumb folks use it in their gardens because its not a toxic chemical.

True! I should have been more specific. There is a particular kind of DE you use in filters, "pool grade diatomaceous earth" which is treated with chemicals that make it very toxic. I do not even know if you can use food-grade DE (the safe kind) in your pool. The Jacks Magic is a form of cellulose power thus completely non-toxic.

 

[Newdude]

There is a particular kind of DE you use in filters, "pool grade diatomaceous earth" which is treated with chemicals that make it very toxic. I

Yes. With an inhalation hazard and no other. The cyrstaline Silica produced by refining DE into pool DE is described here by OSHA :
Silica, Crystalline - Overview | Occupational Safety and Health Administration. If ingested it can also take out your kidneys.

Sprinkling it around the yard could pose a dog problem if they ran around sniffing the grass. But with some reasonable care, its a non issue.

Crystalline Sillica is also used in plenty of things around your house like ceramics, glass and bricks.

I do not even know if you can use food-grade DE (the safe kind) in your pool.

You can't. Pool DE only.

*also..... Welcome BACK !!!!