First time using TF-100 kit - High TA, High FC & Low CYA?

[Mdz110]

Our pool was filled on Thursday of last week, so it's had water in it for 6 days now. The pool company came out 2 days ago to give me the basic run down on how to care for the pool and all the equipment/automation and did their standard tests (TA, Chlorine, PH, CYA, Calcium and Salt). I didn't write down all the numbers since he was going through everything quickly, but of those that I remember these were the values:

FC - well over 5 (very yellow) using the K-1000 kit ( I measured later in the day after he left using the chlorine drop test kit and got 14!)
PH - 8.2
TA - 225
CYA - 20 (and could still see the black dot a little)
CH- ? was acceptable, but don't remember
Sale - 3200ppm

He added about a 1/2 gallon of Muriatic Acid (which I think was to lower the pH?), and was going to add something for the CYA, but forgot before he left. So I know I need to do something, but not sure what exactly.
I have a VSP that's been running at a low speed 20 hrs/day and High speed 4 hours per day, non stop since it was filled. They said I should leave it that way all season. Salt cell output is set to 20%.

I retested again today, using my new TF-100 test kit and these are all my numbers.

FC - 12.5
CC - 0.5
pH - 7.8
TA - 210
CYA - 20
CH - 350
Salt - 3400

Should I add stabilizer to get the CYA up? Or do I not bother because the FC is already high? What about TA being so high?

I still need to post pictures of the completed pool in my build thread, which I'll do as soon as we take the solar cover off. I'm trying to get the temp up!

 

[mknauss]

I would suggest adding maybe 10-20 ppm worth of CYA. I do not see a need to take it to 70 ppm for a normal SWCG pool as you will closing this pool in a few weeks.

Remember that pH tests with a FC above 10 ppm are not valid.

 

[Mdz110]

I would suggest adding maybe 10-20 ppm worth of CYA. I do not see a need to take it to 70 ppm for a normal SWCG pool as you will closing this pool in a few weeks.

Remember that pH tests with a FC above 10 ppm are not valid.

OK on the addition of the CYA.
I'll read up more on the pH, I missed that they were invalid with high chlorine levels. Is it possible my pH isn't actually at a desirable level since the FC is over 10? How would I find that out?
Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

You wait until your FC is at or below 10 ppm and test pH.

 

[wireform]

You can lower the percentage to get the FC to drift down some, then you can the check the PH and then bring FC back up. It may take a few days to get to 10 or below.

 

[Flying Tivo]

I have a VSP that's been running at a low speed 20 hrs/day and High speed 4 hours per day, non stop since it was filled. They said I should leave it that way all season

The purpose of a Variable speed pump is to save money on electricity. Since the pool guy is not paying for the bill, they don't care. You only need to run the pump for 2 reasons, Filtering/skimming and for the SWG to create chlorine. So the idea is to run the VSP at the lowest setting with the SWG at 100% will trip the flow switch and then add a few RPMS just for safety. On the PoolMath app there is the effects of adding that will let you know how many PPM your cell will produce. So run your cell at 100% then adjust running time for 3-4ppm daily. If that also takes care of skimming you are good to go, if not then add a few more hours for filtering. I run my pump 3hrs daily this time of the season.