First time opening!

[Chris.rago64]

Here are a lot of pictures attached

The only thing I haven't yet figured out in the equipment pad is what that little tank is beside the suction side valve with the pressure gauge on top. It says "vac-alert" and has some warning labels but everything else seems too faded to make out.

 

[Chris.rago64]

Here's what my water looks like today. I feel like I've met the "crystal clear" requirement for the SLAM process, but my chlorine consumption is still so rapid that I know I'm still in the midst of the battle.

I'm finding fewer and fewer spots of what I believe to be dead algae still settling to places on the floor where the circulation must not be great. Should I wait until I no longer find any of those spots to start thinking about the OCLT and .5 CC threshold to end the SLAM?

 

[Chris.rago64]

Guys.. I am going in for the OCLT test tonight!

My chlorine is holding much better, the water looks great and my last Combined Chloramines were .5!

Wish me luck overnight!

 

[Chris.rago64]

OCLT fail.

21:19 June 11
Fc 10.5

05:36 June 12
Fc 7
CC 1

I'll try again tonight

 

[Chris.rago64]

It might be my imagination at this point but I do think the water looks even more clear tonight.

Here we go again for OCLT test #2

My baseline tonight at 21:50 well after the sun went down and my last addition of chlorine had plenty of time to mix is:

FC 10
CC 1

There's a persistent "pool smell" is that expected at these high FC levels or is that a good indicator that I'm actively killing off more contaminants and creating more CC than is burned off by the sun?

I've read plenty on this site that the "chlorine smell" should be burned off by the sun in minutes during the day, but that doesn't seem to be the case for me.

 

[Newdude]

There's a persistent "pool smell" is that expected at these high FC levels or is that a good indicator that I'm actively killing off more contaminants and creating more CC than is burned off by the sun?

The smell is CCs. You smell them until they're burned off, which is quickly, unless you make more CCs in the meantime. Then it never goes away.

I've read plenty on this site that the "chlorine smell" should be burned off by the sun in minutes during the day, but that doesn't seem to be the case for me.

I'd go so far as 30 to 45 seconds. My solar cover often built up CCs with me not knowing nothing and leaving the cover on for 2 weeks at a clip. Most of the time they didn't even last a minute and were gone by the time I reeled the cover up.

But in a SLAM there's a persistsnt FC loss / CC gain.

 

[Chris.rago64]

Thanks for the response, that's what I was thinking, due to the SLAM it was constant.

By the way.. I passed!! Now I need a full test because I know my pH needs to come up and I haven't even looked at calcium or TA. I know the calcium doesn't matter with my vinyl, but I still want to know what it is

June 12 21:50
Fc 10
CC 1

June 13 05:35
Fc 9
CC .5

 

[Chris.rago64]

46 gallons of 12.5% is what it took! Hahaha

 

[Chris.rago64]

Full test results are in.
Fc 9
CC .5
pH <6.8
TA 10
CH 75
CYA 30
Temp 71°F

so need to get TA and pH up a bit, and I think I also want my CYA up to 40 and see how chlorine holds at that level for me.

 

[reylas]

Here are a lot of pictures attached

The only thing I haven't yet figured out in the equipment pad is what that little tank is beside the suction side valve with the pressure gauge on top. It says "vac-alert" and has some warning labels but everything else seems too faded to make out.

I can help with that. I have one of those as well. If your pool is of a certain size and in certain areas, you were required to put either two bottom drains so that a child could not get suctioned to one of the drains *or* one of these Vac-Alert systems. What it does, and it can be a source of problems, is break the vacuum if the suctions gets too high (say the bottom drain is plugged). It will let in air at the top and can be a source of extra air in the lines if you dont watch for it. It can be reset by the little lever on the horizontal section on top.

They are supposed to be replaced every so often, but I have not replaced mine.

 

[Chris.rago64]

I can help with that. I have one of those as well. If your pool is of a certain size and in certain areas, you were required to put either two bottom drains so that a child could not get suctioned to one of the drains *or* one of these Vac-Alert systems. What it does, and it can be a source of problems, is break the vacuum if the suctions gets too high (say the bottom drain is plugged). It will let in air at the top and can be a source of extra air in the lines if you dont watch for it. It can be reset by the little lever on the horizontal section on top.

They are supposed to be replaced every so often, but I have not replaced mine.

Wow thank you for that explanation! That makes sense, it is in line with the main drain, and we only have one drain, not two.

 

[Chris.rago64]

I think I've reached "stupid clear" status

 

[PoolStored]

Raise your TA to 60 with baking soda. Use Pool Math.

Pump running, brush around a bit and test TA and pH 30 minutes later.

 

[Chris.rago64]

No borax or soda ash first to bring up the pH to a better number?

Pool math suggests the amount I would need to raise it will be far greater if I do the TA first.

 

[PoolStored]

No borax or soda ash first to bring up the pH to a better number?

Always raise TA with baking soda first, then deal with pH.

 

[PoolStored]

PH - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Chris.rago64]

Thanks for that. There's something new going on today, a very fine film on the top of the pool. Maybe from the baking soda? I'll have to see if I can find anything on that

 

[PoolStored]

Yeah, it happens, not a worry, Let's keep going...

 

[Chris.rago64]

Going to pick up a large container of baking soda from Sam's Club tomorrow. Will get the TA up and then I'm thinking borax to bring pH to ideal ranges if I still need it.

 

[PoolStored]

Make sure it is 20 mule team borax.