First time opening inground pool

[datadr93]

Water temp is hovering around 40 and we have warm spell this week and wanted to start a soft opening (run robot, connect pump, start circulating, etc). I know I can't activate the SWG until temp at least over 60 (iChlor manual says 55 operating temp). And I don't believe I should be running the heater until the water temp is also over 60 (condensation at lower temp, etc).

Should I just plan to vacuum/filter, then take a chemical reading for CYA and start using pucks until temp is adequate to run heater and SWG? From what I'm reading/understanding, the low temp will cause the pucks to dissolve slowly but still need to monitor overall CYA addition. Will be using 3 inch pucks (8oz). CYA was 50 at close and anticipate further loss during winter... I could safely start with 8 pucks (3ppm CYA/puck). Will I obtain fairly accurate CYA with low water temp to know exactly how many pucks I can use overall before switching over to chlorine?

Salt level would then wait until temperature at operating level for heater/SWG... which is when I would check salt level and make any further additions... correct?

And final question... I'm about 4-5 inches below normal fill level. Water is just barely spilling into skimmer. Assuming I should only run main drain until water level higher before opening valve for skimmer drain?

Any other advice greatly appreciated.

 

[wireform]

You can do a soft opening but not sure how the pool was covered over the winter. If it had the mesh cover you can open wherever you need to to reach the plugs for the returns and raise the water level too. Pump and filter can run while the cover is on to stave off the UV from the water. The heat pump is useless until the air temp is minimum 70°. Let the water mix for 24 hours and then do your testing.

 

[PoolStored]

Should I just plan to vacuum/filter, then take a chemical reading for CYA and start using pucks until temp is adequate to run heater and SWG? From what I'm reading/understanding, the low temp will cause the pucks to dissolve slowly but still need to monitor overall CYA addition. Will be using 3 inch pucks (8oz). CYA was 50 at close and anticipate further loss during winter... I could safely start with 8 pucks (3ppm CYA/puck). Will I obtain fairly accurate CYA with low water temp to know exactly how many pucks I can use overall before switching over to chlorine?

Pucks are fine, use a floater. I prefer liquid and dry CYA, as you can control additions much easier. Your CYA is likely 0 at this point. Run the pump for 24hrs before testing, and allow the water sample to warm to room temperature before you test CYA.

Salt level would then wait until temperature at operating level for heater/SWG... which is when I would check salt level and make any further additions... correct?

Yes

And final question... I'm about 4-5 inches below normal fill level. Water is just barely spilling into skimmer. Assuming I should only run main drain until water level higher before opening valve for skimmer drain?

I would fill the pool to normal operating level. Don't risk the pump on a diverter that gets moved.

 

[datadr93]

You can do a soft opening but not sure how the pool was covered over the winter.

Mesh cover... and will re-cover after robot runs clear. I have a cordless pole vac to use on tanning ledge/steps. And plan on letting pool fill naturally... we have rainy season upcoming and if history repeats, I may even need to pump some out before hard opening.

Thank you for info on the heat pump. So just keep it off until averaging 70 outside (this week don't count... it will be cold again next week most likely)

 

[datadr93]

I would fill the pool to normal operating level. Don't risk the pump on a diverter that gets moved.

If need to clarify. I have 2 lines running into pump. One from main drain and the other from skimmer. I was only going to open the main drain line and maintain the Gizmo in skimmer for another month.
Or are you suggesting to not run either until pool at proper fill level? Granted, I can pay a local company $100 to provide fill service if necessary to get me to proper level.

Try to avoid filling from our well unless absolutely necessary (we fill from a yard hydrant tapped to our well). Had only few times last summer needed to add additional inch after house parties. One, it reduces pressure to rest of house... and also because it is a very high alkalinity. I learned this when filling our new 250 gallon hot tub first time in October and TA was at 250. Our home has a filtration system, but to attempt filling pool from that would be a very slow process. We do use house faucet to top-off hot tub, but that is only about 1" every 2 or 3 weeks and still takes about 30 minutes.

 

[Newdude]

Mesh cover..

Mix it for 24 hours before testing CYA and let the sample warm up to room temp first. The water stratifies pretty fierce over the winter and CYA/ CH / salt may take a day to mix well. FC/ TA and PH need 30 mins of mixing.

I was only going to open the main drain line and maintain the Gizmo in skimmer for another month.

If you haven't drained recently it's probably already high enough to use the skimmer. If the water level is below the skimmer, you may lose prime once it's running, if it even primes in the first place. I wouldn't risk the pump to save some gallons of fill water.

 

[datadr93]

Here's current level. Is this high enough to run skimmer drain?

 

[Newdude]

No. But its also close enough to not care that you need to add a couple inches. It's penny wise and pound foolish to risk the pump by leaving the skimmer closed.

Maybe if you needed a foot and wanted to let the spring rains help, it would be worth considering delaying the opening for the free water.

Your pump is $1500 to $1900 online, with no warranty for DIY. Factor up to double that for PB markup with a pro install to get a warranty if you burn this one up.

 

[datadr93]

Placing call to potable service. They mentioned they can unload leftover they have from other customers for even less than $100 just to clear their 4000 gallon tank

 

[wireform]

Let it fill from the house and it'll take what it takes. It's not like your looking to swim tomorrow anyway.

 

[Newdude]

Placing call to potable service. They mentioned they can unload leftover they have from other customers for even less than $100 just to clear their 4000 gallon tank

Even if you had well/municipal water issues such as high iron, I'd take the devil i knew with your hose verses an unknown variable.

Does your fill water have any issues that make you want to look elsewhere ?

 

[datadr93]

I'd take the devil i knew with your hose verses an unknown variable.

The potable water is from a company that fills pools in our area. Pulls from a filtration plant that is virtually mineral-free. My calcium on initial fill last year was 60 that I had to bump up to 180 and naturally ended at 220 end of season (that was a whole other thread on calcium level in fiberglass pool).

Does your fill water have any issues that make you want to look elsewhere ?

High alkalinity. Plus we've had 2 well collapses in last 5 years and have drilling company out in April/May to add 200 feet of liner to prevent any further (we've lost 30 feet and 2 pumps in 5 years). We're trying to avoid running the pump for any extended time unless necessary. Pulling water from the yard hydrant I connect a pre-filter because I know the water is high iron content. We use the hydrant for hot tub fill and top-off pool. I could fill from house faucet (water has run thru whole home filtration system) but try to avoid any prolonged use of that since it would bottom out water pressure in house.

My goal is to get the water cleaned up (you can see bottom easily) and begin the filtration process. Granted, I could wait another month before soft opening... which from opinions provided may be most feasible. Cleaning should only take a day and another day+ for proper filtering.

 

[datadr93]

Held off with filling and awaiting more rains. Water is only about 2 inches above skimmer line so still need another few inches.

Got all equipment connected. Lubed orings after storage. Removed all plugs. Closed skimmer valve. Only have main drain line open. Ran pump at 3000 to initiate prime. Cleared air from filter.

Pump running but when dips to maintenance rate of 1400psi, the fill basket goes half full.

Do I shut everything down until can have both lines running (water at normal skimmer level)? Water still around 50 so don't want to run robot. Heater and SWG off. Have a floater with couple pucks but understand they will dissolve very slowly.

 

[Newdude]

Only have main drain line open

Ok so that's good that you won't suck air from the skimmers. But seeing how you are sucking air, go check that they have no suction if they aren't sealed off still.

From a functional standpoint, the water level is the same height in the drain and skimmer pipe, so it not 'harder' to pull from the drain. You're only pulling from the water height up to the pump. The only difference is the skimmer may suck air if the water height dips a little.

I think you have a leak. Possibly the skimmer valve, the basket lid, or pump union.

Ball valves are crud quality so if the skimmer is open, that's my 1st guess. You could prove it by sealing the skimmer(s)

 

[datadr93]

Agree 100% on PVC ball valves. Checked skimmer and water was just sitting there. I also have a skimmer floater valve for a further safety backup and it's at 50% open.

Went back to equipment and ran high psi. Noticed a small drip from large filter assembly lock. Shut everything down. Repositioned top of filter. Water now appears filtering properly at 1400psi.

Until water level higher, I'm only going to run pump few hours per day. Still too cold for tabs to dissolve but at least can keep water moving.

 

[Newdude]

Noticed a small drip from large filter assembly lock. Shut everything down. Repositioned top of filter. Water now appears filtering properly at 1400psi.

Air can't swim upstream to fill the pump basket, the issue had to come from the pump or before it.

But this isn't the first time a little magic fixed a problem, so if you cleared a drip, hopped on one foot and it's fine now, woohoo.

Keep an eye on it here and there until it earns some trust.

 

[datadr93]

Understand on filter but needed to be addressed regardless.
I'm not going to say giving the skimmer line valve a little extra tug or rechecking the pump's pipe nuts tightness didn't resolve... Or even saying a few extra words NSFW.
Will check randomly until can fully open skimmer valve. Have rain for next few days and well pump issue being addressed in next week or so. One way or another in 2 weeks I can have water to appropriate level.

Using backup filter for opening. Once fully opened will use my "summer" filter.

Once skimmer running fully, I kept the floater valve at 25% last year so more water would filter from main drain. Is that appropriate or should it be open wider or narrower? I also use a mesh sock filter in skimmer basket.

 

[Newdude]

Once skimmer running fully, I kept the floater valve at 25% last year so more water would filter from main drain. Is that appropriate or should it be open wider or narrower?

Most of us run 90% skimmers and 10% drain. Using more pull from the drain leaves less pull for the weir door to skim.

Also assuming once I'm fully up and running (when temp is at level can turn on SWG and robot has cleaned multiple times) I should fully wash/clean filter?

When was it deep cleaned last ? I clean mine at the end of the season so I start fresh. Then I clean once the spring crud is done just because. The filter doesn't need it but I do. Lol.

 

[datadr93]

I updated my initial post. Using my backup filter that is cleaned after use. My summer filter was deep cleaned end of season before storage.

Thanks on skimmer floater. I'll open nearly full on floater plate. Other than valve, I have no means to adjust main drain unless you're referencing the valve position.

And thanks to everyone's advice and other posts for closing, my water is crystal clear. Some scum floaters on surface and a few things on floor (and likely 0 chlorine)... Couple robot runs, scrub water level manually, and vacuum tanning ledge/steps... won't take much work once temp at level to have fully open.