First time opening - does this plan look good?

[PoolStored]

Still hard to know whether this is an algae/SLAM situation and I'll need double the chlorine, right? Since my low FC could still be due to the bad HD chlorine?

Not hard to know. Follow the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT). You need to have at least 3 FC in the water after sunset...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Just get 10 Gallons of Liquid Chlorine for OCLT and SLAM. You can always take it back or store it for use.

 

[Newdude]

CYA: the dot never obscures, so I guess that means 0 CYA?

Correct if you have overhead sun for the test. Over time with comparing you may find indoor lights which show similar results, or train yourself to how it's different, but to start you need good sun up high and its kinda early today.

 

[sande005]

Correct if you have overhead sun for the test. Over time with comparing you may find indoor lights which show similar results, or train yourself to how it's different, but to start you need good sun up high and its kinda early today.

And, make sure your water sample isn't really cold. Let it come up to room temp (pretty fast, if just using the amount before adding the indicator), and then take it back outside to view. See the wiki (esp. steps 5, 6 and 7) about how to view and interpret: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Correct if you have overhead sun for the test. Over time with comparing you may find indoor lights which show similar results, or train yourself to how it's different, but to start you need good sun up high and its kinda early today.

And, make sure your water sample isn't really cold. Let it come up to room temp (pretty fast, if just using the amount before adding the indicator), and then take it back outside to view. See the wiki (esp. steps 5, 6 and 7) about how to view and interpret: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

I redid the CYA test attempting to follow all this, but still the dot is totally visible.

Assuming that means 0 CYA, should I focus on the CYA problem or the FC problem first? I have a new batch of chlorine from Walmart, along with some stabilizer and PH up should I need it.

What's the best use of my time/chlorine? Repeat the process from yesterday, adding 5ppm of chlorine, then testing 30 minutes later to see if FC stabilizes better than yesterday?

 

[Newdude]

Assuming that means 0 CYA, should I focus on the CYA problem or the FC problem first?

0 or very low CYA is common after winter. We just wanted to be sure before moving forward.

Keep some FC in there at all times. Get the CYA up by adding 20 like this :

How to add large batches of CYA

Hey Folks !!! With a large pool, I need 4lbs of CYA to only raise it 15, and I don't think I have that many socks without holes in them. So I use a Tshirt. Plus, I like that it's doubled up for redundancy. But it can also be scaled down with socks. So I measure out my dose and...

www.troublefreepool.com

Repeat the process from yesterday, adding 5ppm of chlorine,

yup. Get your baseline FC, (assuming it's low) and add to 5ppm. Check a half hour later to ensure it's at target.

 

[TinFoilHat]

On my new refill I just dumped a gallon of 12.5% CL in and hung my CYA sock in front of the return. I knew the CL would burn off quickly at first. Day 2 I was down to 2 PPM. It took me 5 days to get 4 lbs of CYA in but my chlorine usage went down each day as more CYA was dissolved. My acid use has gone down each day as well and I'm back to my normal pool water again.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

yup. Get your baseline FC, (assuming it's low) and add to 5ppm. Check a half hour later to ensure it's at target.

After adding 5ppm to basically 0ppm readable chlorine, 30 minutes later I'm at 3ppm from the drop test. In theory that should have been 5ppm right? Pool Math tells me 3ppm is a good level though.

 

[Newdude]

In theory that should have been 5ppm right?

Yes. You shouldn't lose 2ppm an hour with fresh supply and clear water. It's likely not ammonia or it would be a swamp. Let's give the CYA a day to mix in and see if the FC holds better.

Run another OCLT tonight at 5ppm FC now that the bleach is likely good.

What was the date on the new jugs out of curiosity?

Pool Math tells me 3ppm is a good level though.

Pool math doesn't know that your FC is depleting ridiculously fast. Its probably the CYA but stil could be algae. In normal times, it doesn't know that you're losing 1ppm a day in March, or 5ppm a day in August. It means well, but you need to be the one seeing all the puzzle pieces and how they fit together.

We got you in the meantime, and we'll get there.

You're safe with 0 CYA up to 10 FC. Knowing it's dropping quick, I'd start higher to buy more time.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Yes. You shouldn't lose 2ppm an hour with fresh supply and clear water. It's likely not ammonia or it would be a swamp. Let's give the CYA a day to mix in and see if the FC holds better.

The water looks surprisingly clear today with the sun starting to come out slightly. I can see to the bottom in the deep end and see that the robot has cleaned up most of the muck that was there.

Run another OCLT tonight at 5ppm FC now that the bleach is likely good.

Will do

What was the date on the new jugs out of curiosity?

Pool Essentials from Walmart, everything on the shelf had date 24 362. I asked a manger who happened to be there if they had any newer stock, and he said they just got these in last week and I'd be hard pressed to find anything newer. So about 3 months old? The good thing is that these are sitting in indoor shelves in a cool store, not outside in the sun for a year like the HD chlorine.

Pool math doesn't know that your FC is depleting ridiculously fast. Its probably the CYA but stil could be algae. In normal times, it doesn't know that you're losing 1ppm a day in March, or 5ppm a day in August. It means well, but you need to be the one seeing all the puzzle pieces and how they fit together.

We got you in the meantime, and we'll get there.

You're safe with 0 CYA up to 10 FC. Knowing it's dropping quick, I'd start higher to buy more time.

Just to clarify so I know I'm doing the right thing here... You're suggesting I go ahead and add 20 of CYA using the sock/shirt absorption method? Pool Math tells me for my size pool going from 0 to 20ppm CYA I'd add 2lbs 13oz of the stabilizer.

Then I'll test CYA again tomorrow along with the OCLT test.

 

[Newdude]

Just to clarify so I know I'm doing the right thing here... You're suggesting I go ahead and add 20 of CYA using the sock/shirt absorption method?

Yes. You probably need 30 but we don't want to overshoot because 20 and under is sketchy to read. If 20 registers as 30, great, you did have a little in there, if not we'll add more.

Pool Math tells me for my size pool going from 0 to 20ppm CYA I'd add 2lbs 13oz of the stabilizer.

You're getting good at this.

So about 3 months old?

It'll do in a pinch.

The good thing is that these are sitting in indoor shelves in a cool store,

........Today.

They could have sat out back behind the store for a month when they 1st got delivered. Lol. Still though, if that was the case, better in December than in the July heat.

Then I'll test CYA again tomorrow along with the OCLT test.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Well a bit of good news to share. I added another round of 5ppm of Chlorine this afternoon after testing at 0-0.5ppm, and after 30 minutes the test showed 5.5ppm. That's the first time I've seen a stable chlorine level after adding. Here's where I'm at now...

FC: 5.5
PH 7.6
TA: 50
Salt: 2600
CYA: been soaking in a t-shirt for a few hours

Would now be a good time to add some more salt? The SWG appears to be running fine, it just says it's low on salt.

 

[PoolStored]

Would now be a good time to add some more salt? The SWG appears to be running fine, it just says it's low on salt.

Sure. Turn off the SWG. Make sure to brush the salt until ALL of it is dissolved. Run the pump for 24 hours to circulate, then test, and turn salt cell only after 24 hours.

 

[Newdude]

That's the first time I've seen a stable chlorine level after adding

Nice. You were due for a win. Lol.

When brushing the salt, keep it in the shallow end and it's much easier to brush. I added a bag 2 days ago and it was particurally clean so I used the brush to spead it around the shallow end and let it be for 30 mins. At that time it was mostly gone so I brushed side to side again for a couple minutes and 30 mins later there was nothing left

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Last night:
FC: 3.5

This morning's test:
FC: 2
CYA: still undetectable

 

[Newdude]

Ok then it's SLAM Process time. Algae is consuming FC when you lose it with no UV exposure. Then factor a couple ppm during the day and thats why you were getting zapped, once you had good bleach.

Clear water slams always go better than swamps, and cool water slams also do, so you have that going for you, which is nice.

Count the 20 CYA you have soaking as in there and replenish FC to 10 every 2 hours (or the best you can if you're busy) If it shows as 30 later once it's mixed up, use 12 FC as your target.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Count the 20 CYA you have soaking as in there and replenish FC to 10 every 2 hours (or the best you can if you're busy) If it shows as 30 later once it's mixed up, use 12 FC as your target.

I SLAMed with 174oz at 8:48am, now an hour and a half later I'm reading 10ppm FC exactly. If it still reads 10ppm in 30 minutes (so 2 hours from SLAM), do I just leave it be? I only add more chlorine if it goes below 10?

 

[Newdude]

Add when it dips. If its 9+ two hours later. Go to 3 hours. When that mostly holds, go to 4.

As the process plays out, there is less algae to kill and only normal UV loss.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Add when it dips. If its 9+ two hours later. Go to 3 hours. When that mostly holds, go to 4.

As the process plays out, there is less algae to kill and only normal UV loss.

Now I'm at 3ppm, so I'm going to add more to get back to 10, but... I noticed my filter pressure has gone up to 26. My baseline over the past couple days has been 18. Anything to worry about there? Should I do a backwash/rinse before adding more chlorine? Or am I safe with the pressure increases and just continue SLAM?

CYA t-shirt is about half-way absorbed by now.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Yes, backwash it. You need to do this when the pressure rises just 25% over the base clean pressure. You are up 40% of yours currently and it's time to backwash.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

If sand, then yes, backwash it. This isn't in your signature. If cartridge then pull the carts out and wash them off. If DE then backwash. You need to do this when the pressure rises just 25% over the base clean pressure. You are 200% of yours.

Sand filter. This will be my first time backwashing ever. Turn pump off, switch to backwash, turn pump back on. Let it go... for 1 minute? Then pump off, set to rinse, pump on for 30 seconds. Then back to normal filter mode and on with my SLAM.

Is that the right procedure?