First Tests as New Pool Owner

[JFailor]

Howdy All,

Brand new pool owner here. Pool was built this winter and was filled two weeks ago. I conducted my first set of tests with the TF100 kit. My results:
3-way OTO Test Kit
Total Chlorine: 5-10 color range
pH: 8.3 Color Range
Free Chlorine Test: 3ppm (6 drops x .5)
CYA was tricky for me me to tell when the dot fully disappeared but I think it was between 60-70.

Is my CYA super high for a pool that was only recently filled? Maybe I did the test incorrectly?

Looking for advice on what I need to add to balance my chemicals and get me on the right path.

Thanks so much in advance.

Jon

 

[V___25]

Hello and congrats on the new pool!

Did you add CYA to the pool already? A newly filled pool shouldn't have any CYA as it only gets there by adding it. Did the builder add any? Any tablets in the pool?

If not, it's likely you have a testing error. How did you do the CYA a test? It should be done in bright sunlight, with your back to the sun, so that the vial is in your shadow basically, and held at waist level.
Here's some information for more reading on conducing the test:

CYA Testing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JFailor]

Thank you so much for the quick reply and the link. I believe the builder added stabilizer but I've reached out to him to make sure. Unfortunately I was not home when he did it. I redid the test, in the sunlight as suggested and got a similar result this time, 70.

 

[JFailor]

Hello and congrats on the new pool!

Did you add CYA to the pool already? A newly filled pool shouldn't have any CYA as it only gets there by adding it. Did the builder add any? Any tablets in the pool?

If not, it's likely you have a testing error. How did you do the CYA a test? It should be done in bright sunlight, with your back to the sun, so that the vial is in your shadow basically, and held at waist level.
Here's some information for more reading on conducing the test:

CYA Testing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool builder did add stabilizer to the pool when he started it up. It was a granulated powder he poured in the pool then use the Polaris without the bag to mix into the pool until dissolved. I'm wondering if he added too much.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Is this pool going to be a Salt Water pool? Can you fill your signature with all your pool specs so we can help you better. If its a normal pool then too much CYA was added by your PB. You can still follow this FC/CYA Levels to keep your water chlorinated.

 

[JFailor]

Is this pool going to be a Salt Water pool? Can you fill your signature with all your pool specs so we can help you better. If its a normal pool then too much CYA was added by your PB. You can still follow this FC/CYA Levels to keep your water chlorinated.

Thank you for the reply. I though I had created a signature when I created my account. I'll look into how to do that and why mine didn't work. It's a chlorine pool no SWG.

Can you help me understand the difference between the total chlorine test I ran with the K1000 and the free chlorine test? My total chlorine was color code 5-10 and my free chlorine test calculated 3ppm. How are the two related to each other. I need to get my free chlorine up I assume?

Thanks!

 

[Flying Tivo]

TC=FC+CC
The 5-10 you refer to is an OTO test and limits the ability to read CL above 5 ppm, it is used mainly to know if there is chlorine or not.
The Powder DPD test is good up to 50ppm, which is what we mostly use.
We rarely use OTO test.

 

[Sunnydaze]

When the cya test falls in between numbers such as 60-70 in your case, you round up to 70. It's a bit high but as long as you use only liquid chlorine to chlorinate, it'll come down slowly, especially as the water warms up. Personally, I'd let it be for now. Just be sure to keep chlorine at the proper level per the FC/CYA Levels

 

[JFailor]

When the cya test falls in between numbers such as 60-70 in your case, you round up to 70. It's a bit high but as long as you use only liquid chlorine to chlorinate, it'll come down slowly, especially as the water warms up. Personally, I'd let it be for now. Just be sure to keep chlorine at the proper level per the FC/CYA Levels

Thank you!

 

[cpf224]

Just got my TF-100 pro yesterday and had similar questions re: chlorine test. I just started with the simple daily check, will play more later.

Just doubling the thanks for the info!

 

[setsailsoon]

J,

Congrats on the new pool! Your numbers are way out of TFP ranges but you can fix this easy. Please read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry so you're familiar with the methods we use. Here are my comments/questions:

• You stated this is a new pool, does your builder have any special requirements of you for the first month or so of operation? If so follow that. If not start following TFP recommendations asap.
• Have you or anybody else added chemicals? If so, what.
• Please run another set of tests to confirm your results. You can skip the oto chlorine test for now.
• If you confirm the pH I would add acid asap. Keep your pool pH 7-8 at all times. It's important for your plaster.
• If you have a chlorine pool and not salt your FC is way to low.
• Your CYA level appears to be appropriate for a salt pool. Sure you don't have salt? Use the guide provided above for the kind of pool you have.

I hope this is helpful and we're looking forward to your response. TFP methods are easy, you'll catch on in a couple days and we'll always be here to help as needed. We do things different and we don't sell anything. Just provide 100% volunteer, expert advice.

Chris

 

[JFailor]

J,

Congrats on the new pool! Your numbers are way out of TFP ranges but you can fix this easy. Please read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry so you're familiar with the methods we use. Here are my comments/questions:

• You stated this is a new pool, does your builder have any special requirements of you for the first month or so of operation? If so follow that. If not start following TFP recommendations asap.
• Have you or anybody else added chemicals? If so, what.
• Please run another set of tests to confirm your results. You can skip the oto chlorine test for now.
• If you confirm the pH I would add acid asap. Keep your pool pH 7-8 at all times. It's important for your plaster.
• If you have a chlorine pool and not salt your FC is way to low.
• Your CYA level appears to be appropriate for a salt pool. Sure you don't have salt? Use the guide provided above for the kind of pool you have.

I hope this is helpful and we're looking forward to your response. TFP methods are easy, you'll catch on in a couple days and we'll always be here to help as needed. We do things different and we don't sell anything. Just provide 100% volunteer, expert advice.

Chris

Howdy Chris!
Thanks so much for the reply. My builder gave me no special recommendations. I will add that in addition to me trying to get my chemicals to TFP standards my builder is also chasing down a leak....so I am adding a couple inches of water per week.
I definitely do no have a salt water pool.
My builder added chemicals right after it was filled. He added muriatic acid, chlorine and a granulated stabilizer. He did not give me the types or volume. I know that's not helpful. He's frustrated by the leak and has not been as communicative as I would like.

I ran another set of tests.
CYA 60-70
FC 3.5
PH still 8.2
TA was way high at 380

I followed pool math and added the recommended amounts of liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. Based on the above results. What do I do about the really high Total Alkalinity?

Can't thank y'all enough.

Jon

 

[setsailsoon]

Jon,

We don't usually add CYA for 30 3 days. Given that your builder already added it, your CYA level is fine for a salt pool but too high for a chlorine pool. For now lets do this with your pool pump running for at least an hour after your last chemical addition:

1. Get your pH in range. Don't drop it more than .4 pH units at a time. Use Pool Math to figure out how much acid to add.
2. After your acid circulates for an hour add enough chlorinating liquid to get to 8 ppm. The CYA test uses a logarithmic scale so anything between 60 and 70 is recorded as 70. Always round up to the next highest 10.

Use this chart for FC:

I'll post more information in a minute but this will get you started.

Chris

 

[setsailsoon]

Jon,

It may be a little late for this but here's a great guide for starting up. Most new plaster pools have a struggle with pH rising for the first year. So don't be surprised if you're having to adjust it several times per week. You can see your CYA level is above our recommended range but it's only barely above the top. The most common way to reduce it is to replace some of your water using a water exchange method. But since you are new to pool maintenance I'd just raise the FC to 8 until the CYA drops through normal CYA loss. If your CYA level does not drop fast enough we can tackle a partial water exchange later. Has your builder added any sequestrant? It may help if you can post a photo of the containers for chemicals he added.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[setsailsoon]

Jon,

Once you get the additions above done and have circulated for 30 min or so after the last addition please post your new FC, CC, pH. Also, new pools have a lot of plaster dust so you'll likely plug your filter quickly. After your filter pressure increases 20% from new I would clean it. If you're not sure what it was clean it when you get a chance and record the pressure after you start it up. This is your baseline pressure. It doesn't need to be cleaned until it increases 20%... some say 25% but I always used 20.

Chris

 

[JFailor]

Jon,

We don't usually add CYA for 30 3 days. Given that your builder already added it, your CYA level is fine for a salt pool but too high for a chlorine pool. For now lets do this with your pool pump running for at least an hour after your last chemical addition:

1. Get your pH in range. Don't drop it more than .4 pH units at a time. Use Pool Math to figure out how much acid to add.
2. After your acid circulates for an hour add enough chlorinating liquid to get to 8 ppm. The CYA test uses a logarithmic scale so anything between 60 and 70 is recorded as 70. Always round up to the next highest 10.

Use this chart for FC:
View attachment 400437
I'll post more information in a minute but this will get you started.

Chris

Thank you Chris.
So....rookie question here....I'm using the TF100 kit and am comfortable with the FC test at this point. What do I use to test Combined Chlorine? Is that the K1000 OTO kit? Also...is there a difference PH test I should be using other than the K1000?

Thanks again!

Jon,

Once you get the additions above done and have circulated for 30 min or so after the last addition please post your new FC, CC, pH. Also, new pools have a lot of plaster dust so you'll likely plug your filter quickly. After your filter pressure increases 20% from new I would clean it. If you're not sure what it was clean it when you get a chance and record the pressure after you start it up. This is your baseline pressure. It doesn't need to be cleaned until it increases 20%... some say 25% but I always used 20.

Chris

I added 7oz of muriatic acid recommended by pool math as well as 69oz of liquid chlorine.

After letting the pool circulate I retested.
FC is now 12.5 up from 4
PH is still giving me the 8.2 color
Total Chlorine (OTO test) was orange in color...and didn't match the highest color on the chart.

 

[Sunnydaze]

Thank you Chris.
So....rookie question here....I'm using the TF100 kit and am comfortable with the FC test at this point. What do I use to test Combined Chlorine? Is that the K1000 OTO kit? Also...is there a difference PH test I should be using other than the K1000?

Thanks again!

I added 7oz of muriatic acid recommended by pool math as well as 69oz of liquid chlorine.

After letting the pool circulate I retested.
FC is now 12.5 up from 4
PH is still giving me the 8.2 color
Total Chlorine (OTO test) was orange in color...and didn't match the highest color on the chart.

The tf100 has instructions on completing the CC test. You do it immediately after the fas-dpd free chlorine test using the same sample.

When calculating your ph adjustments in pool math, did you enter your TA also?

 

[JFailor]

The tf100 has instructions on completing the CC test. You do it immediately after the fas-dpd free chlorine test using the same sample.

When calculating your ph adjustments in pool math, did you enter your TA also?

Doh! I did not add my TA to my pool math. That completely changed how much I needed to add.
I also see the CC test now. I'm just getting ahead of myself and not working the process carefully. Ok...back to do this over again. Will report back with new numbers. Likely tomorrow.

 

[JFailor]

Doh! I did not add my TA to my pool math. That completely changed how much I needed to add.
I also see the CC test now. I'm just getting ahead of myself and not working the process carefully. Ok...back to do this over again. Will report back with new numbers. Likely tomorrow.

Retested for CC.
FC was 12.5
CC was 1

 

[JFailor]

Retested for CC.
FC was 12.5
CC was 1

Retested to double check myself and here are the second results.
FC-12
CC-.5