First Test w/New K-2006C

[DanF]

Well, I've relied on Leslie's water tests (mainly for CYA and CH) and my own Cl and pH testing using Taylor's OTO kit. Seemed to have gotten me by all these years, but because of quarantining and wanting to take more control of my pool testing I decided to take the plunge.

Not sure if I am supposed to read the Advanced Chemistry text book that comes with the kit so I relied on the card on the inside cover of the case.

So.......Here are my results from a few hours ago:

FC: 1.8-2.0
CC: 0.0
pH: 8.0
TA: 120
CH: 250
CYA: 10-20? Vial was full of solution and I could just barely still see the black dot

I added 23 ounces of muriatic acid, based on the acid demand test, and the table in the book.

Disclaimer: I use chlorine tabs as my sanitizer and I bought a large bucket once this virus hit -- to ensure I would have some if SHTF. So, although I know their use is not recommended/optimal, I would still like to continue using them. Given this how should I get my chlorine up to 4 ppm? I also have shock at home (73%Cal Hypo).

I drained my pool last month for a pebble-tec repair, so I expected CYA to be low but not that low. I have almost 3 full bottles of the liquid conditioner attached. Any recommendations of how much I should add?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[mknauss]

Unless Chandler has special water, never, never use Cal Hypo. Your fill water is 250 ppm and with evaporation your CH will nearly double by the end of summer.

If you drained your pool, then your CYA would be zero.

You should add at least 30 ppm of CYA. Then you can use some trichlor but I suspect you will need to add liquid chlorine too to keep your FC in the target range of the FC/CYA Levels. Stop the trichlor when your CYA gets to 50 ppm.

 

[DanF]

If you drained your pool, then your CYA would be zero.

Thanks...True. I forgot to mention I added some conditioner after draining so I probably have 10 or so ppm.