First Pool Opening / Having trouble testing water and more!

May 2, 2018
7
NW, GA
Hello all! So my new-to-me pool was closed professionally when we bought our house October/November. I’ve got the tarp off, cleaned, dried, and stored. The pool water is blue. It was very clear when we uncovered, but obviously clouded up when we brushed the walls. Pump is up and running with a small leak at the top of the sand filter. Apparently that isn’t uncommon in the first few days? I’m gonna figure out what’s wrong with it if it doesn’t stop.

ANYWAY, I’ve got a Taylor k2006, and I’m totally lost. I’ve run almost every test and I’m not really confident I actually did any of them right.

The water is cold, so I had read to let a sample warm up to test CYA. Still got nothing on the reading. It shows none. The pool looked very good the few weeks leading up to closing, so I doubt there’s actually NONE, but I’ve run 3 tests, and I’m gonna run out of reagent if I keep banging my head against the wall with it.

Chlorine is nonexistent.
pH was 7.3-7.4
i think I got TA measured at 90 or 100. I counted the drops and the color stopped turning pink/red at 8-10 drops.

I’ve gotten this far on my own, but I haven’t actually added any chemicals to the pool. I’ve got 8 gallons of 10% bleach that was super cheap at Home Depot, but that’s all I have on hand.

Where do I go from here?
 
Where do I go from here?

I will try and post more later, but for now just put Chlorine in the pool and get it up to the recommended level for your pool. Check out the Pool School section of the website for a chart that shows the proper chemical levels for your pool. The CYA is important, but you need to get your chlorine up before you get an algae bloom. Also, update your signature on your profile with all you pertinent pool information. (See mine for an example)
 
About how much chlorine? 1 gallon? 8? 1/2?

I swear I added my pool info! Lol

Here it is in case it doesn’t show still.
18x36 IG 3ft shallow end / 8ft deep end 22,000 gallons (?) | Hayward S200 Sand Filter w/ vari-flo valve | Century UST1102 pump | Polaris PB-4 Booster Pump (leaks)
 
He is referring to pool math and the balanced pool secitons. PoolMath

To start the TFP method, read pool school, that should get you up to speed. Bring FC at least up to 4 ppm. So with 22K gal pool add 2 quarts and 3 cups (or 113 oz) of 10%. If you have no CYA you are going to need to bring that up to about 30ppm. When you post here, it helps to list everything TFP uses like below. This way moderators and experts can easily help you without a lot of back and forth.

FC =
CC =
pH =
TA =
CH =
CYA =

You pH and TA is fine. Repost your numbers and we'll all be happy to help!
:testkit:
 
He is referring to pool math and the balanced pool secitons. PoolMath

To start the TFP method, read pool school, that should get you up to speed. Bring FC at least up to 4 ppm. So with 22K gal pool add 2 quarts and 3 cups (or 113 oz) of 10%. If you have no CYA you are going to need to bring that up to about 30ppm. When you post here, it helps to list everything TFP uses like below. This way moderators and experts can easily help you without a lot of back and forth.

FC =
CC =
pH =
TA =
CH =
CYA =

You pH and TA is fine. Repost your numbers and we'll all be happy to help!
:testkit:

Right now my issue is knowing if I’m testing cya correctly. It’s showing no change on the kit. I know there should be some, because the last guy used the pucks that have some in it with the chlorine. I’ve added 1 gallon of 10%, which should bring it up to 4ppm or more based on your advice above

FC = 0
CC = 0
pH = 7.3ish
TA = 80-100 first time don’t know what I’m doing.
CH = not tested yet.
CYA = 0 tested 3 times but I’m probably doing it wrong.
 
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Current status. Pump was turned on 6 hours ago.
 
FC = 0.5
CC = 1
pH = 7.5
TA = 90-100
CH = 60 <— is this really low? I’ve got a vinyl IG.
CYA = not tested - no daylight and I still don’t think I’ve got the hang of it.

Results are 1.5 hours after adding 1 gallon of 10% bleach.

I’ve added 3 more gallons before bed hoping to get it to something close to a shock level.
 
Welcome to TFP.

You may find that you are actually reading the CYA level correctly. Many members have reported CYA disappearing over winter. If you are following the correct testing procedure to test for CYA then I would take the reading as you see it- i.e.- I'm assuming you can still see the black dot when you fill the vial.

Nevertheless, by the looks of the photo of your pool and your results a SLAM is in order.

If your still unsure of whether you are running your tests correctly check out this link.
 

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Welcome to TFP.

You may find that you are actually reading the CYA level correctly. Many members have reported CYA disappearing over winter. If you are following the correct testing procedure to test for CYA then I would take the reading as you see it- i.e.- I'm assuming you can still see the black dot when you fill the vial.

Nevertheless, by the looks of the photo of your pool and your results a SLAM is in order.

If your still unsure of whether you are running your tests correctly check out this link.

That link is exactly what I needed to be confident in my water testing! Thank you! Will test CYA tomorrow and see if I’ve got some that I need to add.
 
If you are short on CYA, you can get it at Walmart, they have it in the pool area where they have the "PH UP", and all the other chems. They call it "Conditioner". 6 lbs for 14.99.
 
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