First Pool - Details/Pics/Story Inside

[Teald024]

It looks like you have your hands full wakasm. Are you able to get the pool to hold any chlorine? With the previous owner using a pool service, I’m really surprised the CYA is zero! Was there a full water change before you bought the house?

Hang the sock from your vac pole so it doesn’t touch the side of the pool. The CYA is acidic and can stain/lighten the wall if it lays against it. If it was me, I would only add enough to get 40 ppm of CYA for now. I would do a SLAM first to make sure the water is clean, and then add the full CYA.
The pic you show in post#18 is a puck floater. You don’t need to use it for now.

In the TF-100 test kit, there are 2 easy to test for chlorine. One is a powder and drop test (FAS-DPD) and is the most accurate and can test up to 50ppm FC & CC. The other uses the drops and comparator block (OTO) and is not as accurate and only tests TC up to 5ppm. You don’t need to do both tests. For now just use the drops and powder test to report FC and CC.

 

[wakasm]

It looks like you have your hands full wakasm. Are you able to get the pool to hold any chlorine? With the previous owner using a pool service, I’m really surprised the CYA is zero! Was there a full water change before you bought the house?

I don't know personally. I never met or had any contact with the previous owners to ask. As outlined earlier in the thread, my only interaction with the Pool Company who serviced it was not a great one and I don't think they would tell me anything. It's been 9 days since owning the house. I feel like I made some progress, but at the same time, I wonder if I have not as well! I am curious if I just called a pool company on day one if they would have fixed the pool faster (and if so, how would they have done it!)

I feel like by the time I do get things ready, I'll have to close the pool

As for holding chlorine, I posted the numbers I tested yesterday. That amount was from 3 days of liquid chlorine and maybe (potentially) the SWG also staying a steady green for 3 days. I don't really know as I am new to this. However, I am out of liquid chlorine and my next biggest challenge is actually finding supplies. Due to work and the stress of moving - it's hard for me to get out and look at local pool stores on weekdays, and it would seem that places like Walmart / Lowes / Homedepot are hit or miss if they have things on shelves or not.

 

[ajw22]

I am curious if I just called a pool company on day one if they would have fixed the pool faster (and if so, how would they have done it!)

I feel like by the time I do get things ready, I'll have to close the pool

The way pool companies are around here it would probably have been weeks before they got to a new customer in the middle of the season. Most good pool companies have their hands full with existing customers. You are better off this way.

Good news is most of the CYA will be there for next season.

Have you thought about who will close your pool for the season?

As for holding chlorine, I posted the numbers I tested yesterday. That amount was from 3 days of liquid chlorine and maybe (potentially) the SWG also staying a steady green for 3 days. I don't really know as I am new to this. However, I am out of liquid chlorine and my next biggest challenge is actually finding supplies. Due to work and the stress of moving - it's hard for me to get out and look at local pool stores on weekdays, and it would seem that places like Walmart / Lowes / Homedepot are hit or miss if they have things on shelves or not.

What are the settings on your SWG. I say crank it up and increase your pump run time until you see the SWG keeping your FC up. There should be no reason for you to continue adding LC and making the store runs with a SWG. Crank up the SWG and let it do it's work.

Just went back and looked and saw your SWG is undersized. Do you have the IC20 set at 100%? How long are you running your pump and SWG? This may be a tradeoff between the expense of running your pump more hours versus making so many LC runs.

 

[wakasm]

I've just been leaving the pump on 100% of the time. I have no idea what they costs (at all) and just assumed it was normal. I suppose I'll find out otherwise whenever I get my first electric+water bill. There are timers, but they were never configured, so I assumed the previous owners ran it 100% of the time as well, and I've seen recommendations that 100% of the time does not break your bill. (any insight here would be great!). I could handle $100-$150 a month during the summer, but if it's really like $500... then I'll need to address. (I also keep reading about speeds on a pump - I am not sure how tell what speed my pump is running at!).

I have the SMG set to 40% just because I was having those flow issues. Maybe I'll crank it up one step daily and see if I get the red flow light again.

At some point I don't mind upgrading to one fit for my pool size once I get a better handle on everything.

Have you thought about who will close your pool for the season?

I've freaked out opening/closing/maintaining the pool every day since closing on this house (we bought the house for the price as it was lower than our initial budget, the pool was just a bonus, although, probably an expensive one!) - but no, I don't know what I am going to do. I was considering making calls next week to new pool companies and explain my situation - but I also feel they will all try and upsell me on maintaining the pool if I keep admitting how much I don't know. I don't know how hard it is to winterize a pool, WHEN it should be done, etc.

The Liquid Chlorine was someone elses suggestion to do since I was getting 0 earlier on, and didn't have my test kit yet. So I figured it was just smart to continue that practice until it turns out I should stop.

 

[DeanP66]

If your pump is a Hayward Super Pump (non variable speed), then it runs at one speed only (generally 3400). It uses around 1500 watts/hr, which equates to about 1080 kilowatts a month if run 24/7. As you can see, it can get quite costly, depending on your electrical rates. At 24 cents per kilowatt hour, that would run you around $260 a month. Look at the rate you paid on your last electric bill to see what it would cost you.

You can do the closing yourself. You just need a little knowledge. Use the rest of the summer to keep reading the smart folks here. Everything you need to know is on here somewhere. By summer's end, you'll realize that you can definitely do it yourself.

 

[ajw22]

If your pump is a Hayward Super Pump (non variable speed), then it runs at one speed only (generally 3400). It uses around 1500 watts/hr, which equates to about 1080 kilowatts a month if run 24/7. As you can see, it can get quite costly, depending on your electrical rates. At 24 cents per kilowatt hour, that would run you around $260 a month. Look at the rate you paid on your last electric bill to see what it would cost you.

NJ rates are about .15/KWH. Thats around $160/month.

 

[ajw22]

I have the SMG set to 40% just because I was having those flow issues. Maybe I'll crank it up one step daily and see if I get the red flow light again.

Crank it up to 100% and then work your way down. The % generation has no effect on the flow problems.

I've freaked out opening/closing/maintaining the pool every day since closing on this house (we bought the house for the price as it was lower than our initial budget, the pool was just a bonus, although, probably an expensive one!) - but no, I don't know what I am going to do. I was considering making calls next week to new pool companies and explain my situation - but I also feel they will all try and upsell me on maintaining the pool if I keep admitting how much I don't know. I don't know how hard it is to winterize a pool, WHEN it should be done, etc.

Winterizing the pool in NJ should be done some time between the middle of September and the end of October. If you have any trees that drop their fall leaves around the pool then you want to close the pool before masses of leaves get into the pool. It becomes a real mess if you wait too long. By me the third week of October is the latest I can go without having leaf problems.

Yes, you can winterize the pool yourself put it is good to see what the pool company does in closing and opening the pool. Then you can decide if you want to sign up to DIY in the future. Do it wrong and you can have freezing water damage the pool or equipment or the lines.

The pool companies make enough on pool closings and opening. They may offer weekly pool service and just say no.

If you want a pool company to do the closing then call around now. They begin sending put closing contracts and scheduling by mid-August.

 

[wakasm]

Working on CYA, first 4 lbs are in, and if the rate is similar to the first sock, that should be dissolved by tonight/tomorrow. 16lbs more to go! (I didn't get a chance to get to Tenafly yet due to work, but if the Walmart near me is out of the 12.95 stabalizer I found the other day, I will take a trip to get the remaining that I need).

I have the SWG at 100% max now.

Anything else I should be doing other than locking down a company for closing?

How often should I be testing numbers at the moment while I try and bring the CYA up?

And for the future refence - if I ever get this pool to swim-ready - please please someone use those fun swimming emoticons. It'll be a nice reward when this is all done!

 

[ajw22]

What makes you think your pool is not swim ready? Get some FC in it and go swim.

Test FC and PH every day until you get to know your pool. Then you can back off to twice a week as it becomes predictable. Those are the two tests youw ant to stay on top of and not let them get off target for too long.

Test TA once a week.

Test CH and CYA once a week until they are stable and then you can back off to maybe once a month.

 

[wakasm]

Maybe it was my interpretation, but I thought it was unsafe to swim unless the numbers were closer to their goals - for things like water infection or acidity. Specifically from my previous test, I was under the impression the FC was too low and the PH too high?

Previous Test:
FC 1.0
CC 0.5
pH 8.2
TA 110
CH 300
CYA 0?

Sorry, this is good news otherwise, but I thought that was the point to getting to these numbers, so then to SLAM the pool, so I could then swim!?

 

[ajw22]

Maybe it was my interpretation, but I thought it was unsafe to swim unless the numbers were closer to their goals - for things like water infection or acidity. Specifically from my previous test, I was under the impression the FC was too low and the PH too high?

Previous Test:
FC 1.0
CC 0.5
pH 8.2
TA 110
CH 300
CYA 0?

Sorry, this is good news otherwise, but I thought that was the point to getting to these numbers, so then to SLAM the pool, so I could then swim!?

Put a gallon of MA in the pool to lower your PH into the 7's. With the SWG cranked up you need to watch the PH and knock it down when it gets to 8.

Put a gallon of bleach in to raise your FC. Don't add MA and bleach at the same time. Do them 30 minutes apart.

Keep adding the CYA.

Go swim.

Is your pool water clear? If pool is clear and CC is .5 I don't think you need to SLAM. Even if you need to SLAM you can swim in FC levels up to SLAM levels as long as the water is not too yucky for your tastes.

Keep watching the FC and PH daily while you enjoy swimming. Once things are stable we can talk about lowering your TA some.

 

[wakasm]

Is your pool water clear?

It's clear as in I can see the bottom very easily, whater is a light blue (not a dark blue as I see in other pics). However, you can see lots of particles floating in it still, similar to this picture.

https://i.imgur.com/750TzJu.jpg

(more noticable at night with the light on).

Or will there always be particles like that? I just assumed at some point I would something right and they would go away I should be home while light is still out, so I guess I can take a pic for further inspection in the daylight.

Thank you for sticking with me on this thread. I paid for the pool math app, but it doesn't show me as a supporter yet, so I have to figure out how to do that as well with all the help I've gotten. This site has been extremely worth it so far, especially for me who really has never done anythign with a pool before.

 

[ajw22]

PoolMath on the web site is free.

Particles like that don't make your pool unsafe to swim. Some folks can get their pools more perfect than others. You may have a minor filter problem that we can work on at some point. Your pool is lots better then lakes that folks swim in regularly.

Light blue vs. dark blue depends as much on pool color and lighting as water quality.

 

[Teald024]

I paid for the pool math app, but it doesn't show me as a supporter yet, so I have to figure out how to do that as well with all the help I've gotten. This site has been extremely worth it so far, especially for me who really has never done anythign with a pool before.

If you are you referring to the PoolMath App for mobile devices, you can contact Leebo , our site admin

 

[MannyT]

I don't think you get a supporter badge for paying for the PoolMath App for mobile devices. The badges are a separate donation.

 

[Teald024]

Badges are given when you make a donation to the site . Since TFP is a charitable organization per IRS rules, the donations may be deductible.

 

[wakasm]

No worries then. I'll figure it out at some point. The site has been very deserving so far! I'll post my next test tomorrow after my last round of moving.

I did hop in for the first time today and it was glorious. It was a short spurt but it definitely felt good.

I did forget to take pics of the water though, which I will also do tomorrow.

 

[wakasm]

Just some updates. 7/16/18

FC 8.0
CC 0.0
pH 7.5
TA 100
CH 200
CYA 30


FC is way up. CH is down. CYA starting to go out. About 8lbs of CYA done through the sock method.

Any thoughts on other progress, or still just focus on the CYA for now?

I still have these stains to deal with:



Also - the SWG top two lights started flashing again today. The SWG started flashing today on the salt level after having it cranked to 100 for the last 2 days.

Need to vacuum again tonight when I get home.

 

[#40Fan]

You could bump the % of the SWG down for now since you have low CYA numbers, but as you get them up to where you need them, you'll likely be back at 100% again. Reading back through the thread, you have the small SWG which might bite you in the long run unless you want to add chlorine yourself to compensate, in which case you might as well shut the SWG down. Save it for times when you'll be away for a while.

 

[DeanP66]

Your numbers look good, now you just need to increase your CYA up to 70-80 PPM so you're in line with the recommended levels for pools with SWG's. Not sure about the flashing lights on your SWG. Hopefully someone with more info will chime in with the answers.

Regarding your stains, the first thing you should do is put some vitamin c tablets in a sock and hold or agitate the sock against the stains for a few minutes. If they lighten up or clear, it's an indication that they are iron stains. If they get darker or turn blackish, it's pretty likely that they are copper stains. Iron stains can be treated quite easily with an ascorbic acid (AA) treatment. It consists of:

1) lowering pH down to 7.2-7.4
2) letting your FC drift down near 0
3) adding ascorbic acid (AA) powder around the perimeter of your pool (I like to mix it around with my pool brush)
4) adding 2 to 3 bottles of metal sequesterant like Metal Magic
5) slowly bringing your FC back up to normal levels (this will take a lot of liquid chorine because the AA and the liquid chlorine will
neutralize each other)
6) adding a monthly maintenance dose of sequesterant (Metal Magic) to prevent the stains from ending back on your walls and floor

If you go this route, be careful when you start letting your FC drop near 0. It's a good idea to really brush your entire pool while this is happening so nothing starts forming any biofilm on the walls. You probably want to use about 3-5 Lbs of AA to really attack those stains. Once you add the AA and stir it up a little bit, let the pool sit for an hour or two. By then, you should see the stains lift. Don't be fooled though, they are not gone. They are just in solution in the water. You need to add the Metal Magic sequesterant to keep them in solution or else they'll end up back on your walls and floor. Once you add the Metal Magic, I'd wait about an hour and then start bringing your FC back up with liquid chlorine. Add enough to bring it up to 4 to 6 PPM and then check it hourly at first, because you'll find that the FC will disappear in a hurry while it it neutralizing the AA left in the pool. It will take a lot of liquid chlorine until your FC actually starts holding for more than a couple of hours, so check and redose often. You don't want algae to start forming because that would require a SLAM to clear and that's the one thing you cannot do for at least a couple of weeks after doing an AA treatment. If you do, the stains will fall out of solution and back onto your walls and floor and you'll be right back to where you started, so watch that FC very closely coming out of the treatment. To keep the stains in solution, you'll have to add a monthly dose of Metal magic sequesterant because it gets broken down over time by your chlorine. That should be all there is to it.

One other thing, to keep the stains away, it's recommended that you run your pH on the lower end of the scale (7.2-7.4) High pH is one thing that can make the stains fall out of solution so keep an eye on it.

Of course, you'll have to shut off your SWG at the beginning to let your FC drop down close to 0. You should leave it off until you start adding FC back. Just don't expect it to raise the FC by itself. Rely on liquid chlorine to do that and just supplement the FC with the SWG until the FC starts to hold like normal. Then you can fully adjust your SWG to take over on its own.

I did an AA treatment last August with pretty good results. Here's a couple of pics.
Before treatment:



After treatment: