First pool, closing on house in a month, what will I need to do immediately? (FL)

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H

heckofagator

Bronze Supporter
Oct 6, 2021
138
Tampa, FL
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
hi all, Florida resident here (if it matters). We are planning to close on a new house with an inground pool/hottub setup. I have never owned a pool before so I don't know the first thing.

Pool does not have a salt system, I don't think (but I'm very interested in putting one in eventually). It has the std stuff (filter, pump) and a propane heater. Owner says he has a laminated sheet of instructions how to move all of the diverter values, etc.

I am planning to try to do the maintenance myself and was just curious how much time I have once we move in before anything gets critical? I talked to a buddy and he says most of the work he does on his pool is during the summer months and not much is done during the "winter". This all seems a little overwhelming and i just want to make sure if it takes some time to figure all of this out that I don't hurt the system by letting something go.

thanks!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: I would recommend two things right off the bat:
1 - Order a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. You must have or the other. I recommend the TF-100.
2 - Read and re-read the link below and it's sub articles. Just about everything you need to know is in there.

Don't forget to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. See mine as an example. We'll help!

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
At first you may feel overwhelmed with the new terms, testing etc. Don’t panic! The experts here will help you work through everything.

Yes, a good test kit costs a bit, but not nearly as expensive as being “pool stored”. Adding chemicals you don’t need, buying expensive chemicals that you can purchase at Walmart or Home Depot etc.
Follow these folks to a crystal clear pool! You won’t regret it! After a few weeks the testing will only take a few minutes a day or every other day, easy trade off instead of a constant battle with algae and green pools!

:lovetfp:
 
Hello and welcome! Congrats on the new house
You are already ahead of the game by being here and asking good questions. Ditto the others on a good test kit. Do that first.
When you more details about the pool, fill out your signature so we know what you to work with - type and size of pool, type of filter, pump, etc. How does the pool look currently? If it's clear and the owner is maintaining it throughout the closing process, you should be ok. Once you take ownership, you'll want to get chemical readings to make sure you chlorine isn't crazy low, which is why you should get a kit now.
 
Pool (seems to be) in great condition. Sellers have a maintenance company, so I think I should be good right when we buy, I just wanted to make sure I don't mess anything up by my lack of action while I figure things out. Here's a couple pics, I'll def update specs when I know more. I wish I had taken a better pic of the equipment. Pic of the pool is from the 2nd story.

Will def get a nice test kit ordered

20210917_175649.jpg

pool.JPG
 
heckofagator said:
The TF100 with SmartStir and XL seems to be the direction I'm heading
Click to expand...
You won't get any arguments here against that purchase. :)

Also, if there's a pool maintenance company that's been stopping by 10 minutes a week to throw in some tabs in that floater for god knows how long, don't be surprised if your CYA is crazy high and you have to do a drain/refill or a water exchange. Test it first but just putting that out there.
 

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Used my TF-100 kit for the first time this am.

Test results are:
TC - 7.0 (6.5 free)
pH - 7.8
TA - 90
CH - 1375
CYA - 50

The old owners had a pool maintenance company and they probably haven't been here in about a month. I guess all of those numbers are generally within range except the CH reading is off the chart. It took like 55 drops to turn the color of the test. I was using my SmartStir so pretty sure mixing wasn't an issue. So I think this is a cause of the pool company using chlorine tabs and the only solution is to partially drain the pool?

Are those pen pH meters worth anything? Seem to be some on Anazon with good ratings in the $10-$15 range.

What are my next steps? Can you confirm the frequency that testing should be done for each of these tests?
 
That level of CH sounds suspicious. If correct, the pool would have large amounts of scale, especially along the water line. Does it?

Be sure the R0012 reagent bottle is fully vertical, the drops form and fall naturally with no or very little pressure on the bottle.

The Apera 20 pH pen has shown to be reasonably accurate and reliable. It does need calibration often.

As you are new, I would test FC and pH daily for a week to get some practice in. TA when you need to add acid (pH hits 8) and CH and CYA every month.
 
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