Fired the pool guy, just tested for the first time, some questions

[cope360]

TFP gave me the confidence to fire the pool service and take this on! I have the TF-Pro kit.

Here are my initial tests and conclusions. Eager to hear your thoughts as I learn about this.

FAS-DPD

• Took 13 drops to go clear, so FC = 6.5
• 5 drop of R-0003 and still clear, so CC = 0
• Conclusion: For CYA of 50, 6.5 is good

Comparator Block Test

• pH = 8.2
  • Conclusion: Need to add muriatic acid to get this in the 7.2-8.0 range
• Cl = 5 (Instructions say this is total chlorine. How does that compare to the previous FC/CC test?)

CYA = 50

TA = 80

Calcium Hardness

• It took 21 drops to start turning purple and 29 drops before fully blue. Going with the 29, CH = 725 ppm
• Conclusion: A little too high, should be 250-650. Will also retest with more attention to color change.

Salt

• Note, I am currently using liquid chlorine but am going to change to salt soon so I wanted to see what the current level is so I know how much to add.
• My test took 12 drops to get to milky salmon red indicating 2400 ppm. This really does not seem right since I have never added salt to the pool. Pool was replastered in March 2023 with a fresh fill and startup after that.
• Conclusion: stumped on this one. Will retest.

 

[ajw22]

Overall you are looking pretty good.

Turn on CSI tracking in PoolMath and have it calculate your SSI. It is probably high and in scaling territory with your high pH and CH. With your high CH you need to keep your pH low to keep your CSI in range.

You are adding salt to your pool when you add liquid chlorine. Every gallon of 10% liquid chlorine adds 7ppm of FC and 12 ppm of salt. 2400 ppm of salt is 200 gallons of liquid chlorine. That is probably 18 months worth for you.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Mmmmm pool result not bad at all for a poolguy. Congrats on getting a hold on your pool. If CH is 725 i could suggest draining 20-30% before converting to SWG. So as not to waste chems. As Allen pointed out CSI is key and will let you know where your ph should be.

 

[Mdragger88]

Cl = 5 (Instructions say this is total chlorine. How does that compare to the previous FC/CC test?)

5ppm is simply the max reading for that test. Its not a super accurate test. More of a “do I have any chlorine of any kind or not?” Type Test
Fc+ cc = TC (total chlorine)
You generally want to know how much of each & over 5ppm so stick with the fas/dpd test.

 

[cope360]

Here are the pool math results. CSI is 0.83

So should I replace some water first and then see where the pH is?

 

[proavia]

What is the pH, TA and CH of your fill water?

Lower pH to 7.2 - 7.4 -- in increments of 0.4 - today.
Plan on keeping TA in the 60-70 range.

 

[ajw22]

So should I replace some water first and then see where the pH is?

No, lower your pH first into the low 7's using muriatic acid.