Nope
Just lowering CH hardness, can you test the water out of the tap you will use to fill?Mostly the PH, TA & CH level, it will be zero CYA.
Fired the pool guy, I'm taking over! Levels and questions.
- Thread starter Ampsonic
- Start date
Just lowering CH hardness, can you test the water out of the tap you will use to fill?Mostly the PH, TA & CH level, it will be zero CYA.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
CH will be ~250 ppm, TA ~130 ppm. pH around 8. Colorado River water.
Getting ready to do my water exchange, how big a temperature difference would indicate I need to drain from the step and fill from the deep end? Also, can I use my autofill for the filling part or am I better off w/ a hose inside a bucket on the step?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would think a 5 degree difference. I assume you do not have high CH or saltwater.
You are better off using a hose as your autofill enters the pool 12-18” under the surface.
You are better off using a hose as your autofill enters the pool 12-18” under the surface.
Water Exchange is currently under way! My current plan is to let it run into the evening, then retest my levels and see how much we've improved the CYA and CH. Do you think I should turn on the pool pump and circulate the water a bit before I test, since we are taking pains to not mix the water?
You want to try and not mix any water until you've exchanged a high enough quantity to affect CYA/CH levels.
I have my hose on full blast but I’ve still dropped the after level 4-6” over 7 hrs. Should I shut off the pump and let the level come back up or just let it keep exchanging? Still not sure beyond “a few days” how long to let this go.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,197
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I may be able to string some together from the front of the house. I'll give that a try.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,197
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
If that doesn't work, maybe a valve in the pump discharge hose, one of the ball valves you can get at HD would be nice. I don't think 6" will hurt but you shouldn't let it go too much further. The whole idea is to eliminate risk to the structure. Taking a little more time is worth the effort in my opinion because the consequences of the wrong guess are so great.
Chris
Chris
Only way I could make it reach....
Attachments
Ok, it seems to have been successful! I ran it for just over 24 hours which should have exchanged 85% of the water. Here's my post exchange test results:
FC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 8.1
TA: 140
CH: 400
CYA: 20
I've added bleach and muriatic acid to get the FC and pH where we want them (not at the same time of course.) I'm sure w/ my waterfall I'll bring the TA in line over time. I've got stabilizer to add for the CYA, but I'm going to clean my filter and triple check the reading as I don't want to push it too high.
Thanks all for the help with this process, especially @mknauss!
FC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 8.1
TA: 140
CH: 400
CYA: 20
I've added bleach and muriatic acid to get the FC and pH where we want them (not at the same time of course.) I'm sure w/ my waterfall I'll bring the TA in line over time. I've got stabilizer to add for the CYA, but I'm going to clean my filter and triple check the reading as I don't want to push it too high.
Thanks all for the help with this process, especially @mknauss!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Looks good. Be sure the pool water is very well mixed prior to making any large chemical add. Though your numbers look like a pretty close to 85% exchange.
Do get chlorine in the water now.
Do get chlorine in the water now.