Hi,
a couple of comments.
Your CYA tests shows a difference of 15ppm over a couple days. It takes a bit of time for a new user to get used to testing CYA and get repeatable results. I suspect your 'real' CYA is somewhere between 75 and 90. Always test outside in direct sunlight, with your back to the sun, and the test tube at waist level. You can use the same test mix and test several times, just pour the mixture from the tube back into the bottle and give it another go. Several times should give you a more accurate indication of your CYA, than just testing it 1 time.
CYA doesnt go away except with dilution, the only way to lower it is to drain some of the water and refill.
So, with that said, and if you decide not to drain and refill to get your CYA down...
First, get your PH down to recommended levels. 7.4 would be a good target. Use Pool Math to determine how much muriatic acid or dry acid to add in order to obtain your target. Let it mix in for 30 minutes or so.
Your High PH is likely effecting the accuracy of your FC test. So after your Ph is down retest your FC.
Refer to the recommended levels and adjust your FC to your CYA level. If you need to raise the FC, use Liquid Chlorine to do it. If your FC is too high for your CYA level, then dont do anything. The FC will drop due to UV, so test it daily until you reach your recommended FC level. Then maintain your FC there. Use Pool Math to determine how much liquid chlorine is needed to maintain the FC level.
CC is good!
TA is good!
your CH is higher than recommended. The only way to get it down is again, drain some of the water.
Hi CH is manageable, a lot of people do it, but its a bit of a pain. Recommend to search the forum for "managing high Ch" or something of that nature if water replacement isnt an option for you.
Managing high CH means keeping a sharp eye on your Ph and the CSI (see pool math, it will tell you what your CSI index is). High CH can lead to calcium scaling at water level and its hard to get off! Given the right chemical conditions of the water, the calcium can also precipatate out of the water turning the water a milky white color. You make a determination as to how much your CH may increase over time by testing your tap water, which is used to replinish the water lost to evaporation and backwashing. If your CH in the tap water is high, well... the CH in the pool will just increase over time.
Overall though, you test results look not too bad except for the PH that definitely needs to come down asap.
I would recommend, if its an option for you, to get your CYA and CH down closer to recommended levels.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
I hope this helps!