Finally switching over to TFP Method

[clintmcclell]

Hi, finally ran out of tabs and shock and purchased the K 2006C. New here but it looks like my test results should be linked above. I was going to buy bleach and start adding but I want to know if I should address the 100+ CYA first? I tested it twice and it might be a hair higher than 100. Does cold water affect testing? Did the test in the kitchen in the evening under bright lights and I have good eye sight. Any other factors to consider with CYA? 60 degree water and about to get into the 20s in here next week. I dread it but it sounds like draining out some water is my only option. Other than that, I’m starting to get some mild algae growth from lack of chlorine but I figure a brushing will take care of it when I add the chlorine.
Any tips appreciated!

 

[brendio]

I would get chlorine in there straight away to at least stop the algae growing further. Cold water can affect the CYA test. It would underestimate the result, as the white suspension is slower to form. So we don't know how far above 100 your CYA is. I would re-do the test, allowing the sample to come to room temperature in your kitchen, and then dilute the sample 1:1 with tap water and re-test. If you need to SLAM, you will require more chlorine at elevated CYA levels.

Read up in pool school about the FC/CYA relationship.

 

[wireform]

Clint,
Welcome aboard. As was said do a diluted CYA test with the water warmed up to room temp. Then double your results for the CYA. If you keep pool with the high CYA you will go through lots of liquid chlorine so you'd be probably better off with close to a 70 percent water exchange. Pool log looks ok except for the FC and you're missing one more test called CC which will give you tell tale signs of organics in the water chewing at your chlorine.

 

[setsailsoon]

Clint,

Welcome to TFP! Glad to have you on board. I would re-do that CYA test during the day with sun to your back and definitely do the dilution method if your reading is above 100. Low temp can affect the test so warm your sample to 70 deg first. At 60 deg F algae is barely growing or not growing at all. I'd get your testing done, wait for the cold snap to pass and read up on water exchange while you're waiting. It's a safer way to change out your water especially in places like Houston where you can have a very high water table.

Chris

 

[clintmcclell]

Thanks for all the great info. Redid the tests as instructed (results in my profile) overall pretty consistent. Still at a CYA of 100 so I feel confident in it now. The sample prob warmed up a good bit before I used it the first time too since I was researching and learning how to do the tests. Added CC which I show about .2. I know it’s not trustworthy but Leslie's only showed CYA of 48 in August. Going to wait out the cold snap and look at replacing water in a week or so. Is it a waste of time to add bleach now if algae is mild since I’m going to exchange in a week anyway?

 

[clintmcclell]

Just wanted to add that I let the pucks run out a week ago or so and zero FC was not a surprise to me. Combined chlorine shouldn’t matter much at this point since it’s low (0.2), cold (<60 degrees) and I’m about to exchange, right?

 

[JJ_Tex]

You can wait on the chlorine, but if it were my pool I would go ahead and add it now. Chlorine is cheap, and adding some now will help keep your algae from getting out of control and costing you more time and $ after you drain and SLAM.

 

[HermanTX]

I know it’s not trustworthy but Leslie's only showed CYA of 48 in August. Going to wait out the cold snap and look at replacing water in a week or so. Is it a waste of time to add bleach now if algae is mild since I’m going to exchange in a week anyway?

Your results clearly show the effects of using pucks over time. It was raised over 50 ppm (assuming you believe what Leslie test showed). I would add LC now. There is rain & wind mixed with this bad weather and all types of stuff will drop in pool. Also, wait for a cool, non sunny day to drain half your pool (at least) then refill. Use your new test kit to test your fill water. Do you have a water softener? If so, determine if it feeds your hose bib that fills your pool.

 

[clintmcclell]

You can wait on the chlorine, but if it were my pool I would go ahead and add it now. Chlorine is cheap, and adding some now will help keep your algae from getting out of control and costing you more time and $ after you drain and SLAM.

Thanks. I plan on adding chlorine. So I should SLAM after refilling? I assume it shouldn’t take as long since it’s new water and all I’m really trying to do is get the chlorine level stable, right?

 

[clintmcclell]

Your results clearly show the effects of using pucks over time. It was raised over 50 ppm (assuming you believe what Leslie test showed). I would add LC now. There is rain & wind mixed with this bad weather and all types of stuff will drop in pool. Also, wait for a cool, non sunny day to drain half your pool (at least) then refill. Use your new test kit to test your fill water. Do you have a water softener? If so, determine if it feeds your hose bib that fills your pool.

Glad to see another Katy resident! My fill spout in the pool is connected to a softener. I have a non-softened spout next to the pool too, so I have options. When testing and choosing which water to use, what’s the focus, calcium hardness? Do you think I am ok partial draining and refilling instead of the exchange method?

 

[JJ_Tex]

Thanks. I plan on adding chlorine. So I should SLAM after refilling? I assume it shouldn’t take as long since it’s new water and all I’m really trying to do is get the chlorine level stable, right?

I would add chlorine now, then SLAM after you refill and get your CYA down. A SLAM will take several days, since you are essentially sanitizing all of your water to completely eradicate the algae by maintaining the elevated chlorine level until you cant see algae and your test kit indicates you have no more algae. If you just do a one time add of chlorine, you may kill some so it is no longer visible on the walls, but its still there and will come back.

 

[Dtkokay]

Another Houstonian here. I agree with the advice above: add some liquid chlorine now, drain and refill when you can, then SLAM.

When I need liquid chlorine, I buy it from Home Depot, sold under the name HDX Chlorinating Liquid. Check HD’s web site for inventory in your area.

 

[clintmcclell]

I would add chlorine now, then SLAM after you refill and get your CYA down. A SLAM will take several days, since you are essentially sanitizing all of your water to completely eradicate the algae by maintaining the elevated chlorine level until you cant see algae and your test kit indicates you have no more algae. If you just do a one time add of chlorine, you may kill some so it is no longer visible on the walls, but its still there and will come back.

Thanks! Can you clarify what you mean by this? “test kit indicates you have no more algae.”

 

[JJ_Tex]

Sure. I would suggest you read up on the full SLAM process below, including the 3 criteria to end the SLAM:
- Your water is clear
- You pass an OCLT (Overnight Chlorine Loss Test)
- CC is 0.5 or lower

The first criteria is obviously your eyes, the last two criteria you need your test kit and what I would referring to. Far too often people just go off of the first one to end their SLAM, and miss killing all of the algae that may be hiding in less obvious places like behind light, weir doors, etc. or simply just floating around in the water.

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[HermanTX]

Glad to see another Katy resident! My fill spout in the pool is connected to a softener. I have a non-softened spout next to the pool too, so I have options. When testing and choosing which water to use, what’s the focus, calcium hardness? Do you think I am ok partial draining and refilling instead of the exchange method?

Well a couple of things about water softener. You need to see how yours is set but mine regens to about 3000 gals. So if you use your softened water tap to fill the pool then whenever you hit the volume to regen you will no longer have softened water either to your house nor your pool. Not a huge deal but just so you are aware until the softener can go through its regen cycle. Most regens occur at 1-3am based settings on the controller when you most likely are not using water when the softener goes through it regen cycle. I did a refill once and had about 1700 gals remaining before my regen so I just did 1200 gals then switched over to standard city water for remainder. It is something you can monitor and plan for.
Next would be, what is the CH of the city water. Mine is around 120ppm and obviously zero through the softener. So your pool currently is running 350-400ppm CH. If your city water is like mine, they you will dilute somewhat your CH level after adding city water. All of this can be planned for. You will need to test your city water.

Similarly the same will happen with TA. My city water TA is also about 130 (it should be about same for the softened water as well) so you will most likely increase TA (your pool shows to be 70) thus be prepared to add MA. The pH is not really affected by the what water you add but will be affected if you add MA to lower TA.

I normally do a drain and refill rather than water exchange but both are feasible. I always use the main drain i.e. deep end. I put my valves to turn off suction from skimmers because when water drops you do not want pool pump to accidently kick on and cavitate. Most say it is better to drain using a submersible pump. I have done it both ways (the other being using my main pool pump). Draining normally goes fast, it is the filling that takes time. I would plan for an overcast day or even a rainy day such that exposed plaster does not have a lot of sun on it while filling.
Hope this helps and apologize for lengthy reply.

 

[wireform]

Be sure you know the exact pool volume/capacity before you begin. Once you are lowering the CYA you may as well bring it down to 30 which means at least 70% drain and fill. Be sure which process you choose. If you lower too much with very little water remaining, you can pop the shell right out of the ground and have a disaster on your hands. Exchange water process is much safer and will get the job done if you can follow through.

 

[setsailsoon]