Finally diving into fiberglass (repair), tips and clarification appreciated!

[Aleforge]

Alright it's FINALLY time. I am not sure how many people on here remember me spamming the forums freaking out over the crack I have but I am finally ready to tackle it.

I spoke with TAP plastics a lot over the past few months and gathered up the materials I needed (very helpful company). They gave me some instruction but I don't want to keep bothering them over everything. I figured everyone here loves seeing "help me" posts so...


OK so I have the resin, gel coat, fabric and the catalyst on the way (forgot to order that). I also have the pool nearly drained low enough on the shallow end where the crack is. I also have been clearing out the water under and around the pool as well to relieve some hydro-static pressure. I know the risks and after the 3k + quotes I said bleep it and figured I might as well try it myself. I won't go into that story, but needless to say it's either repair or remove at this point.

Here are the steps that I believe I need to do, please correct me if I am wrong (one part I am confused on how to do).

1. Rough up area around crack, 6 inches or so until the fibers start to show.
2. Fill in hole if it's deep with gravel / sand etc, leaving a small step. I was warned that if it's topped off expansion could cause a bump to form.
3. If possible get some cardboard behind the crack lip
4. Cut and lay down material making sure it extends past the crack 6 inches (or so) up against the exposed fibers.
3. Mix resin and catalyst per instructions. Generously brush on over entire surface.

This is where I get a bit confused. I was told it needed to cure and while it was doing so it needed to be sealed from the air. By way of either mixing in the surface curing agent, spray PVA or cover with plastic. I assume there is a curing agent that is suppose to be mixed in with the resin and catalyst prior to application? It was mentioned I could seal with plastic... but I assume it needs lubricated against sticking?

Part two of the confusing part is that I just found out that I needed multiple layers of fabric. But I am not sure on if you just keep doing the same process or not....

4. Mix catalyst with gel coat and brush it on. Once again sealing it from air.

That seems like the end?

Has anyone done this before? It sounds fairly simple and the curing isn't supposed to take very long (hour or so). I can see knocking this out in one day. Basically all I want to do is stop the leak.

Advice, tips or suggestions?

Thanks

 

[blakeusa]

First off no need to seal or protect from sunlight -- the catalyst is the drying agent.

Here are the steps that I believe I need to do, please correct me if I am wrong (one part I am confused on how to do).

1. Rough up area around crack, 6 inches or so until the fibers start to show.
80 grit sandpaper is great.

1.a wipe down area with acetone on a rag-- quickly and not much liquid on the rag. Just cleans the patch area
you will also want acetone to clean up with.. its the only agent that dissolves resin.
1.b For a clean repair tape off the area with duct tape around the patch-- then after you apply the cloth/ resin -- you will trim the area about 30 minutes later
with a razor blade and peal up the tape. This makes a a really clean patch area.
1.c If you have a blue fiberglass pool I would suggest getting and using a Pigment to color the resin before applying to the patch area.
This can be purchased online or at some boat supply stores. You would most likely want blue and white to mix to match your pool.
Its about $10 a ounce but you only use a drop or two. Again this will make a very nice professional repair.

2. Fill in hole if it's deep with gravel / sand etc, leaving a small step. I was warned that if it's topped off expansion could cause a bump to form.
Not sure what this is for? do you have a large hole under the fiberglass?

3. If possible get some cardboard behind the crack lip - ok or an aluminum can for backing if needed.
4. Cut and lay down material making sure it extends past the crack 6 inches (or so) up against the exposed fibers. -ok
3. Mix resin and catalyst per instructions. Generously brush on over entire surface. -ok
put some on the crack then lay the glass down and seal it up. If the crack is deep you may need 1 or more layers of fiberglass.
OR you can cut the fiberglass with scissors making chopped hair and mix that with your resin batch.. maybe on the second layer.
You can do the second layer after it is dry or 12 hours no problem.
Make sure you build up the patch to be slightly greater than the original pool surface -- as you will sand the area flush after its dry.

Sand with 80, 100, 150 and 220 till flush
Refill any holes or divots with more resin and cut up cloth fibers.
Repeat till smooth.

Once the patch is smooth and matches your existing pool surface do your final gel or clear coat.

Again tape the area you want to look clean.
Mix small batch of resin and catalyst. No cloth
Brush it on.
in about 20 minutes when gelled -- pull the tape.

YOUR DONE- unless you want to polish the area.

Sand with 320 - 400 and buff with rubbing compound.

Fiberglass is very forgiving.. so don't worry. Just don't overuse the catalyst as it will make the repair brittle.

I used to fix boats and make surfboards so I think your good.

Post pics of the crack and I might be able to give some additional advice.

And why did the area crack to begin with.. will this problem be resolved?

B

 

[Aleforge]

I just noticed your reply, I forgot to set this to send me a notification.

(WARNING VERY LONG)

Over the weekend I tackled the job and I am sitting here wondering I need to cut it all out and start over. I don't have much room left however as the wall curves up nearby.

There are a few issues I either ran into or questioned afterwards. But even though this wasn't "complicated" it ended up a bit harder due to not knowing what the bleep I was doing, coupled with zero experience.

So I cut around the crack due to it being tapered and slightly "lipped" over itself. I then ground back away from the crack about 3 inches back or so. I probably should've went farther, but again I am already on a slight "hump" and didn't want to get into the wall (so ya probably screw up number one).

I stuck some cardboard behind the cutout, however even though the sand (ya back filled with stupid sand) was nearly flush on one part. The part curving towards the side was missing a bit of fill. However I couldn't fill it up as it went upward as it sloped away (screw up number 2).

Anyhow, so I mixed up the resin with catalyst. It was hot out, I couldn't do much about that as its always hot during the day now. I did keep the area shaded if that matters. Round one, I put too much catalyst in.... I followed the directions but I suppose the high temps caused it to harden quickly. So after I painted around the edge and the cardboard I stuck on layer one. And then mixed new resin and its consistency was much better. So I put down a coat of that, fairly heavily (might of been too heavy, I don't know). Now the Tap guy told me I didn't have to wait long between layers. So before it started to tack up well I put down layer two, then soon after layer three.

At this point I let it sit until it cured enough to be tacky. Then mixed up the gel coat. I put the catalyst in, taking care to not go crazy. I then while the resin was tacky painted on a thick coat. Waited a bit, then a second coat. BUT... I think I might've put it on TOO thick... Sigh. I didn't check it today, but it sure didn't setup in 30 minutes. I believe I read somewhere after 45 it should pass the "finger nail" test... it did not. But I left the excess gel coat (about 2 inches) in it's container and this morning it was very solid, yet sticky (but it wasn't sealed).

Anyhow I did seal over the top of it well with wax paper. I was told you could seal over it with two types of plastic or use a spray. The only plastic I had was drop cloth and wasn't sure if that would be OK. So wax paper it was.

So probably the biggest screw up, I ground down until I saw "some fibers" but they were partially embedded in a grey substance. I am assuming it was fabric sealed up into resin. I am pretty sure I needed to go deeper after the fact. I did rough it up some with sand paper and cleaned the area with acetone. I also roughed up the gel coat around the hole and wiped that down as well.

Another issue... I didn't know polyester resin (what I was directed to buy) wasn't water proof. But this company (TAP) is fairly reputable and sell fiberglass... I also spoke back and forth with the manager. So I am not sure why I was sold polyester, unless that's the norm. If the original resin wasn't polyester (who knows what its made out of), I read it won't. So the entire thing might just pop right out.

Is the gel coat the "sealing" part of the process? I also have some fibers poking out of course due to not trimming it well enough. At this point I was wondering if I could sand those off, or if I need to use a razor. I didn't want to cut into the gel coat though. But people can't step on it.

Last question... should I re-cut and start over? I am freaked out now that it's going to not work. Luckily I spent only have 300 total and still have probably enough fabric left. I also have catalyst and resin. BUT the hole will be huge and start going into the wall. What would you do? Just hope for the best?


It got crushed due to very heavy rains / hydro-static pressure. I pumped out all of the water out around and under it. And took the risk of draining it throwing caution to the wind. It's bone dry around it at the moment. So I am working around a ticking time bomb.