Filter/Pump Upgrades

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pmsmith2032

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Jan 11, 2011
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Kansas City, MO
I posted this over in the Filter, Pump and Plumbing section but didn't get any responses so figured I'd try here. I am looking for suggestions on upgrading our pool filter and/or pump if it makes sense. Here is our current setup:
  • AGP - 27' Round - 54"
  • Hayward Sand Filter - SW256TPAKS
  • Hayward Power-Flo LX Pump - 1.0 HP Single Speed - 60 GPM
Pool and equipment is all 9 years old. Pump only runs filter and vacuum.

Thanks!

IMG_20200503_150627.jpgIMG_20200503_150516.jpgIMG_20200503_150506.jpg
 
No. But our electric bills are REALLY high in the summer. Part of the issue is I run the filter 24/7 during the summer (I seem to start having issues with algae when I don't). Also, the pump is a lot louder than it was when we first got it (it's been like that for a few years now) so I think it may have a bad bearing or something.
 
Algae issues are not due to pump run time but poor chemistry. Your FC levels are probably too low for your CYA level.

www.troublefreepool.com

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

With proper chemistry management you shouldn't need more than a couple hours of run time.
 
You may have an algae bloom that you aren't fully killing. You need to follow this procedure.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Algae spores are constantly dropping into your pool year around. You need to keep the proper FC/CYA levels in order to quickly kill it so it does not grow and replicate.

What is your CYA level and FC target?

How do you chlorinate the pool?

What color is the algae?
 
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CYA is usually between 25-30 ppm (although I really have a hard time with that test). If FC is between 3-6 it seems that algae starts creeping back. As soon as I raise it closer to SLAM levels (10-12) the algae starts dying/going away.

I use bleach (normally from Aldi) for chlorinating the pool.

The algae is green with maybe a tint of brown.

Thanks for all your help!
 
I would try the SLAM process and make sure the pool passes OCLT before lowering FC levels. Also are you using the Pool Math App to track your results? It sounds like you are very uncertain of your test results. You need to track them and with manual dosing, you should be testing everyday.

How often are you testing the water?

What issues are you having with the CYA test?
 

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Thanks. Yes, I use the Pool Math App. Unfortunately I'm probably not as diligent about testing daily as I should but this year I should have more time as my son doesn't have baseball for the foreseeable future.

With the CYA test I have difficulty determining when the black spot in the tube isn't visible exactly. It just doesn't seem like a very exact science.
 
I suspect the issue is that you are letting FC dip below the appropriate levels and it gives the algae a foot hold. At such a low CYA level, you can easily lose 50% of the FC per day. At a 6 ppm target, the next day, it will be 3 ppm, the next day 1.5 ppm. This is probably why your FC needs to be at 10 ppm so that by the time you dose, it is still above minimum levels. Unless you test everyday and dose everyday, you will likely need to run at a higher FC level. If you don't have time for daily testing, I would recommend an automatic dosing system (Stenner Pump) or an SWG.

Running 24/7 is just masking the real issue and a new pump and filter are not going solve that.

Here are some tips for CYA tests: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool
 
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It is a trade off. The higher the CYA, the less swings you get during the day but you need a higher FC target as well. The other downside is that when you do have an algae issue, the SLAM levels are higher. But the first thing you need to do is to remove any traces of the algae by following the SLAM process I linked above.

Once that is under control, I would increase CYA to 50 ppm and have a FC target of 8 ppm. For the foreseeable future, you need to keep an eye on your FC levels daily.
 
So I opened the pool yesterday and the water wasn't very clear (seemed to be algae). So I filled to skimmer level, threw two bottles of bleach in, and ran the Hayward LadyBug cleaner. My plan going forward is:
1. Test all chemicals TF-100 test kit. Bring all chemicals up to regular maintenance levels. Bring FC level up to shock level.
2. Add DE to sand filter and get water clear. Doing this first because I don't want to loose stabilizer to multiple backwashes.
3. Once water is clear follow SLAM procedure.

Does this sound reasonable?
 
The water will probably not clear until you SLAM. SLAM should be first. You dont want to try to filter out live algae. It will just cause filter issues. While in SLAM, set filter to recurculate.
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OK So should I backwash once now before I start the SLAM process since it's been vacuuming with the LadyBug? Or does it really matter?

I haven't tested the water yet but I'm assuming CYA is 0. If it is, I need to raise it to 30 to 40 before starting SLAM, correct?
 
Clean the filter once the pressure rises about 25% from the clean value. While SLAMing you can let it go a little higher than 25% if you find that you are cleaning the filter to often.

Test CYA first. Then adjust to at least 20 ppm.
 

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